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Topic: 87 "coug" resto winter project (Read 104436 times) previous topic - next topic

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #210
I only had to have about 1/8" or so removed because the factory 03-04 Cobra ball joints don't use a castle nut and cotter pin. Instead they use a nylock nut. I just had enough taken off to where 2 threads protrude above the nylock portion of the nut so the insert works. A properly tightened/torqued ball joint nut should not come loose. The nylock or cotter pin is just insurance.

If you go the machining route (which won't weaken the spindle) remember to take material off the top of the spindle where the ball joint nut sits. If it's removed from the bottom you'll have major issues. Also make sure they get everything perfectly square so the nut sits flat.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #211
we already swapped in the right ball joints,

moving on to fighting the springs back in.,,, proving to be a tad difficult with no motor weight in yet.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #212
Quote from: jcassity;451183
we already swapped in the right ball joints,

moving on to fighting the springs back in.,,, proving to be a tad difficult with no motor weight in yet.

I had the same problem...me and the wife sat on the front frame to get the struts bolted down after the springs went in
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
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5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #213
On my Sport, I did the same thing. Pulled the motor...while I was getting my shiznit together for the HO, I tackled the front end (11" brakes at that time). Found out how bad it was to get the springs back, even with spring squeezers.

Ended up using a cable puller to compress the spring/control arm through the center so I could reattach the ball joint and even that wasn't too easy.

I swapped out the V8 springs for TC springs...not worth doing, IMO. No noticeable drop or ride difference.

Putting in some '98 GT springs brought 'er down a little. I think Vinnie used similar springs on his Sport too...


If I was ever to do it again I wouldn't ass around with used stuff. Costs more for new parts...cleaner, neater, and easier than working with JY stuff though.
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #214
Well. We got the drivers side spring on... Used a ratchet strap. A spring compressor of dad's own design and my welding job. Welds held up great on the thing we made to compress the top part of the spring.

We then used a spring compressing thing we found on YouTube (washer big enough to fit in the hole the bottom of the spring goes around. Then, welded to it, a piece of angled something that dad had in one of the many bins of mystery. Worked pretty good for retaining the bottom spring)

We then compressed the spring using control arm and a comically large ratchet strap used for 18 wheeler beds to hold stuff down...

... We destroyed that ratchet strap (see attached). But it worked.. .

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #215
Lots of energy in a compressed spring. Not sure I'd trust a bit of woven cloth and some so-so metal with the possibility of serious injury.. ;)
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)


87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #217
springs in, rack in (found a company in Indiana that has all the fox rack / pinioins you want remanuf for 69$.  struts in, strut mounts in, tie rods and end links in,  moving on to empty 21 more containers of parts on the car to roll it out for sanding.
this lets us assemble the motor with a empty bay.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #218
I actually never had issues getting my springs in. Those SN-95 springs were shorter, and actually only took very minimal prying with a pry bar to get them to pop in. I haven't done any real work in a while. car funds have been non-existant.

Keep on keeping on, and those tubs will be empty soon enough. One piece at a time.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #219
we are using bird/coug springs,, LOL probably if I guess an easy 3 or 4 inches longer.

had to make a spring tool to get them in,, with no weight in the car/no motor its a challenge.

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #220
I love restoring and doing the "little things" like this.....

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #221
not bad for playing around with our new paint gun.

base coat is called "infinity black".

sanding down some imperfections then hitting it again, then clear coat

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #222
Sweeeeet!!!!

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #223
first go at clear coating,, looks like this is a good start to count on the buffing phase to final finish out the work.
This is our spoiler,, I think it came off a early 90's Camaro or something... fits real nice actually

87 "coug" resto winter project

Reply #224
car updates. we got the bondo work the best we could and now its paint time. the car is blacked out with the first coat after primer, primer sealer, flex agent, and paint. now it needs more black paint then a generous amount of clear coat to buff and hide any last issues we find