I need a new alternator. Reply #31 – May 14, 2013, 01:11:51 PM wow,everything is going so nicely on this thread (22 posts) until Mr. Renzo steps in,Now we have to go thru all this BS AGAIN!!!!! Quote Selected
I need a new alternator. Reply #33 – May 14, 2013, 02:32:34 PM Tom, please, stop editing your posts. It's useless. I'd like to know your opinion and not "jj". Quote Selected
I need a new alternator. Reply #35 – May 14, 2013, 02:39:19 PM Quote from: TOM Renzo;415125Sorry i posted about a safety issue. I just did not want 86 to have a problem. Thank you CHOOGLINTom that is all fine and dandy,but why can't you just leave it at that .If the man decides to ignore your advice,so be it.why do you feel the need to reply with post after shaging post,to get your point across..............I just don't get you!!!! Quote Selected
I need a new alternator. Reply #36 – May 14, 2013, 02:54:31 PM Tom, I don't take everybody's advice. I'm pretty sure we are all big boys here and can all make our own decisions. I heard you the first time and I agreed with you. The links you put up spoke for themselves, now let it go. When I was working on that 202,000 mile engine you once said that it was time to give it up and get it rebuilt. I still worked on it for months in 105-110 degree heat, but I heard you. Finally when I took the EEC and opened it I realized it was fried. That was when I decided to hire Jimmi and let him put in a new engine and have my transmission rebuilt. I don't have a hoist, lift, or cherry picker nor can I rebuild a transmission. Thinking I could rebuild a transmission over this forum would be insane. I'm sure everyone here remembers the problems I had on the electrical. I learned a lot working on my car in the heat and if I had chosen not to, I wouldn't have learned what I know now. When I was finally done, I did take your advice and got rid of the old engine. It might seem strange to most if not all of you, but actually this problem has got me pretty excited! When I first got the car back it ran really fast a couple times...what I mean is it scared me. Of course the next day I had to charge it up again. Now that I have upgraded the alternator, (and put in the TC 3.45 axle) all I have to do is find the problem in the wiring. Now I sit here and wonder how it will run when the car has the electrical system working right? When I am discharging the battery from the time I start it, that's BIG and should make quite a difference when it's right. Two sides to every coin. Quote Selected
I need a new alternator. Reply #37 – May 14, 2013, 03:41:47 PM Quote from: 86cougar;415115Problem is I'm not getting any voltage from the gr/red wire.You should have this when the ignition switch is in run. This is needed for the regulator to turn on the alternator field current.If the car is or was originally a 2.3 turbo, it comes directly from the ignition switch.Otherwise it comes through the "alternator warning light" on instrument cluster. If you put the ignition switch in RUN, and don't start the engine, the light should be on. Is it?If the cluster is not stock and you don't have the light, you have to jumper the two wires that went to the light together.There should be a Gray/Yellow Stripe wire from the ignition switch and the Light Green/Red Stripe wire in the original cluster harness. Quote Selected
I need a new alternator. Reply #38 – May 14, 2013, 04:38:39 PM Quote from: 86cougar;415119I don't think I have a problem with my battery. I can charge it up to about 12 volts then the charge slows down and it take time from there on to increase the battery voltage, but that is charging it at 2 amps.. Like I said after reading the article from the "Corral" installing a 3G alternator was a good upgrade. I sure we will find the problem and resolve this issue. Thanks! thats a good point,, does the sticky on our 3g upgrade in the "General section ~greateshiznits" match the one on corral?we spent a lot of time making that be easy as pie and thus far there is some positve feedback on how easy it was, there are comments made to improve the information which i will do in the next week or two. i wanted to cycle this drawing around for several users.im interested to see if you notice something different with your 5.0 3g swap in. Quote Selected
I need a new alternator. Reply #39 – May 14, 2013, 04:46:44 PM is there another way to add/remove battery load for troubleshooting purposes?i think we can all learn from this subject because good points on safety but yet even with my flooded battery, sometimes i want to know more information and am forced to isolate circuits.sorry 86~ hijack over. Quote Selected
I need a new alternator. Reply #40 – May 14, 2013, 05:53:53 PM Hijack away! You may have hit the problem! I remember the gray/yellow wire giving us problems in the radio department under the dash. Quote Selected
I need a new alternator. Reply #41 – May 14, 2013, 05:55:12 PM Quote from: Chooglin;415128Tom that is all fine and dandy,but why can't you just leave it at that .If the man decides to ignore your advice,so be it.why do you feel the need to reply with post after shaging post,to get your point across..............I just don't get you!!!!Got it wont do it again thanks. Quote Selected
I need a new alternator. Reply #42 – May 14, 2013, 05:59:34 PM You should check your battery voltage first. Then you should check the voltage at the alternator output. If there is no difference and you checked the alternator field regulator, you can do some other tests. I hope the accessory belt isn't slipping.I wrote the exact procedure for disconnecting the battery in the post above. It's necessary to do it after the voltage check. If the voltage is low (less than 12V), there is no risk of explosion, because the battery isn't "boiling". You should try it with all possible accessory on, but the high beams are enough.And as Haystack mentioned earlier, this is the same, as jump starting with jumper wires. Quote Selected
I need a new alternator. Reply #43 – May 14, 2013, 06:47:29 PM Quote from: softtouch;415130You should have this when the ignition switch is in run. This is needed for the regulator to turn on the alternator field current.If the car is or was originally a 2.3 turbo, it comes directly from the ignition switch.Otherwise it comes through the "alternator warning light" on instrument cluster. If you put the ignition switch in RUN, and don't start the engine, the light should be on. Is it?If the cluster is not stock and you don't have the light, you have to jumper the two wires that went to the light together.There should be a Gray/Yellow Stripe wire from the ignition switch and the Light Green/Red Stripe wire in the original cluster harness. I have an "86" base Cougar w/5.0 engine.The cluster is original for now. I hooked up the battery and turned on the key and no "alternator warning light", I also started the car and no "alternator warning light" I also noticed that when I got the car back the back light for the speedometer stays on draining the battery. I'm going to take the instrument cluster out and check it for burnt bulbs. I found one last time and the bulb had melted. Quote Selected
I need a new alternator. Reply #44 – May 14, 2013, 07:09:21 PM Quote from: Trinom;415145You should check your battery voltage first. Then you should check the voltage at the alternator output. If there is no difference and you checked the alternator field regulator, you can do some other tests. I hope the accessory belt isn't slipping.I wrote the exact procedure for disconnecting the battery in the post above. It's necessary to do it after the voltage check. If the voltage is low (less than 12V), there is no risk of explosion, because the battery isn't "boiling". You should try it with all possible accessory on, but the high beams are enough.And as Haystack mentioned earlier, this is the same, as jump starting with jumper wires. The voltage is at 10.97 with the car running the alternator was putting out 10.77 volts. That sure doesn't seem right. Quote Selected
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