Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Topic: Brakes have failed, mech cant help (Read 11378 times) previous topic - next topic

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #30 – April 25, 2013, 02:09:17 PM

Thanks Chuck, that will be a great help. Sorry I must have missed the link when I was scanning through the post.

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #31 – April 25, 2013, 02:53:42 PM

Quote from: Big B;413879

I had an easy time removing the brake booster, don't know what all the fuss people have put up there was about. With the drivers seat out, and the right tools on hand, I had mine out in 20 minutes. The TEVES ABS unit is not really heavy at all, unless you consider 15lbs heavy. Honestly the hardest part is swapping out the brake pedal for the correct non-ABS pedal, and modifying the brake lines to fit the SVO MC. The stock ABS brake pedal will work with the Vac-Booster, but you won't have quite the braking action that you should have without the correct non-ABS vac boost brake pedal installed. I believe MM sells a kit to connect the stock prop to the SVO MC, as well. Once you have all the parts on hand, it shouldn't take you more than a leisurely evening to get fully done.

Why did you have to change the brake pedal?

As far as loosing weight with removing the ABS yes the master is only 15lbs but if you gut all the wiring that goes along with it you would probably be loosing closer to 60lbs

Do not use the SVO MC unless you are changing over the brakes to the larger SVO's. If you use the SVO MC with the stock brakes it will feel like trying to do a 500lb leg press when you try and stop the car.

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #32 – April 26, 2013, 09:51:12 AM

Quote from: bigbada1;413899

Why did you have to change the brake pedal?

As far as loosing weight with removing the ABS yes the master is only 15lbs but if you gut all the wiring that goes along with it you would probably be loosing closer to 60lbs

Do not use the SVO MC unless you are changing over the brakes to the larger SVO's. If you use the SVO MC with the stock brakes it will feel like trying to do a 500lb leg press when you try and stop the car.

It was not the correct pedal, as also confirmed by many on Turbo Ford.

I've already dissected the entire wiring harness, and removed all the ABS wiring and the computer from the car. All the PRC and ABS wiring/computers combined weighed in at 18lbs, not much of a loss, but I wanted all that wiring out of there.

I am swapping on the larger MKVII calipers.

Like I always do, I did all my research before ever even buying the first part.

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #33 – April 26, 2013, 05:08:54 PM

Just for laughs what is the correct PEDAL and from what CAR!!! This should be INTERESTING !!! And what ratio are we talking about!!!

60 LBS DIFFERENCE ?

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #34 – April 27, 2013, 12:04:36 AM

Any non-ABS pedal from an 83-88 Fox.

Higher caliber builds require the correct parts.

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #35 – April 27, 2013, 12:49:32 PM

Quote from: Chuck W;413535

Personally, I like the electric booster set-up. The early ABS systems all suck, but I did enjoy the consistent feel of the electric booster in my Scorpio, which is the same set-up, basically.

If I was bored, I might consider a booster swap into the TBird. However, I have MANY other things to do instead of that.

IMO, the OP should diagnose what's actually wrong first, then decide if he should consider the vac-assist swap.

Meee thinks same...

Have a good spare just in case mine poops out, I'll only convert to vac as a last resort...

For the record I've never seen a real issue with the ABS, in testing and the few times I've got that hard into the brakes(usually trying not to run out at the drag strip) they did exactly what they were supposed to...

Quote from: TOM Renzo;413948

60 LBS DIFFERENCE ?

That does seem to be a stretch but if all the ABS and ride control harness is pulled out, maybe... Problem with yanking all the wiring is the ECM test port is in that harness and if not stripped out and reconnected, there is no way to easily read codes...

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #36 – April 27, 2013, 02:17:20 PM

Quote from: TurboCoupe50;413995

Problem with yanking all the wiring is the ECM test port is in that harness and if not stripped out and reconnected, there is no way to easily read codes...

The ECM test port is in that harness, but is completely separate from the ABS/PRC wiring. It's only a matter of peeling off the factory electrical tape, and separating it out of the bundle, other than that it doesn't have to be touched whatsoever to rid the car of the ABS/PRC wiring.

OP: If you can trace wire colors then you should be all good here.

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #37 – April 27, 2013, 04:33:46 PM

Big B actually the T BIRD pedal ratio is 3.3 and the mustang is only 2.7. So the T Bird pedal is actually better for conversion. The rule of thumb is for manual brakes should be 6 or better and power should be around 4 plus or minus. So i would stay with the T Bird pedals for the extra ratio. But then again you can modify any one of the pedals for more ratio. But be advised your welding skills must be extremely good. So personally i cant figure out why a pedal change is in order???

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #38 – April 29, 2013, 02:02:12 PM

Alright so i have been able to find time to work on the brake system and something dawned on me, when I was trying to find the ignition timing after I swapped my cam pulleys and at one point when i was turning it over, I heard this pumping sound (it almost sounded like gulping). Now if that was my brake pump motor, I turned it over a few times and if the pump is also connecting to the ignition switch, this would turn the pump on. So i think I burnt out the pump or did something worse....
If it is just the pump, where can I find a new one at?

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #39 – April 29, 2013, 11:16:56 PM

Quote from: SR71blackbird;414171

Alright so i have been able to find time to work on the brake system and something dawned on me, when I was trying to find the ignition timing after I swapped my cam pulleys and at one point when i was turning it over, I heard this pumping sound (it almost sounded like gulping). Now if that was my brake pump motor, I turned it over a few times and if the pump is also connecting to the ignition switch, this would turn the pump on. So i think I burnt out the pump or did something worse....
If it is just the pump, where can I find a new one at?

Have you even run through the diagnostics on that link I posted yet?

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #40 – May 02, 2013, 03:52:54 PM

I have a question. "Use a heavy gauge jumper wire to jumper the T/Y and GY/R wires in the socket." I cant figure out what ones are the T/Y and the GY/R. Also is it saying run two different heavy gauge wires from the battery to each of the sockets?

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #41 – May 02, 2013, 10:44:05 PM

Well...

T/Y = Teal(or Turquoise)/Yellow
GY/R = Grey/Red

One is + and one is -... as shown on the little diagram of the socket. The part about connecting to the battery is AFTER you test something else and it doesn't work.

The rest of the instructions are written in plain English. Not sure what is so hard to follow, honestly.

I used these same instructions (or similar ones) when I was troubleshooting the system in the Merk. It's not that difficult.

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #42 – May 02, 2013, 11:24:17 PM

Well chuck I appreciate you help.
But in honesty, I am 100% sure there is stuff you don't have a clue about and some extra help may be needed. Idk maybe like gunsmith work, (or to even a fire weapon with good form and precision) or trying to figure out an area of moment on a I-beam that is 39x8 with a thickness of .85". (There are other parts too the measurements, if you'd like to know, ask.)
"The rest of the instructions are written in plain English. Not sure what is so hard to follow, honestly."
This is unneeded... really. I have never done anything with the wiring in the car (besides fixing a tad bit of the injector harness), so it does seem a tad daunting to me.
So lets keep the chat helpful and chipper! Thank you!

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #43 – May 03, 2013, 07:33:09 AM

When I post up pretty specific instructions for trouble-shooting, and they go largely ignored, I tend to lose my patience. If I don't know something I need to know to fix something, I figure it out, and above all I read the manual/instructions. I didn't know how to weld...I figured it out. I had never done ANY kind of electronics project...I figured it out and built a MegaSquirt for my car.
As to your other statements, I have an ME degree and deal with a lot of applied engineering issues daily, so I'm sure I'd be able to figure out the I-beam question. As far as the "firing a weapon" goes, I've done it numerous times, and if I was all hot and bothered to geek out about it, then good form and precision wouldn't be an issue. Until that time, the 12ga shot gun will do just fine at keeping the halls clear.

My advice is to actually read the instructions. Numerous times if needed, until you understand what's going on. Honestly I see this a lot from you. You post an issue, people give suggestions and tips, and they pretty much go unheeded, while you apparently look for an "easier" route to fix the problem, or for someone to tell you what the exact problem is, so you can just fix it and not do any trouble-shooting.

Brakes have failed, mech cant help

Reply #44 – May 03, 2013, 11:48:45 AM

Well I am sorry to hear they go largely ignored. I am just finding the time to work on my car (alot of school work, work and comp shooting). I am going to be checking everything today from the instructions. Well figuring stuff out is great if you have time! Well I am sure I am not the only one that needs to ask questions after hearing a lingo they aren't to fond with.
And on a good 90% of tips that people give me, I use. Some are outlandish so I don't all. But I have followed a lot of troubling shooting tips.
I don't see your logic with your last statement. "while you apparently look for an "easier" route to fix the problem, or for someone to tell you what the exact problem is, so you can just fix it and not do any trouble-shooting." I don't see the problem in someone telling another the person the exact problem.... Especially if the person needing help is a busy person and doesn't have much time to trouble-shoot, if any.