Somethings wrong.

Topic: Somethings wrong. (Read 12936 times) previous topic - next topic

Somethings wrong.

Reply #75 – November 17, 2012, 11:45:29 PM

Still waiting for that VIN number.
A little history of the car may help.
How long have you owned it?
Is every thing stock except the starter? Did you leave all the original wiring on the battery side of the starter relay?
Was the car originally a 5.0?
What features. ATC, digital dash, auto lamp etc

Somethings wrong.

Reply #76 – November 18, 2012, 09:36:35 AM

I've owned this car for about 7 years. It has an MSG 6a box, a MSG distributor, new gauges that's about it. The wiring on the starter relay has changed do to the mini-starter. What is ATC and auto lamp? Yes, digital dash, electric side mirrors, that's about it.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #77 – November 18, 2012, 11:17:49 AM

Test those points i posted then we can go further. I dont care what print you need i need to know Voltages and where they are not!!!!

Somethings wrong.

Reply #78 – November 18, 2012, 12:20:34 PM

Will do. I'm new at this,so I will probably ask a lot of dumb questions.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #79 – November 18, 2012, 12:29:34 PM

lets restart here with only one thing.........

take out the battery and battery tray and remove covers off the wires heading off the starter relay.

you will be able to see all the fuse links. I mentioned earlier that there are several fuse links hiding under the battery tray.

One wire (mini starter power should be attached to one post of your starter relay.
ALL other wires should be attached to the other post of he starter relay including the wire that comes from your battery.
AND THEN make sure your little red slip on boot wire is attached to the tiny stud on the starter relay as well (you wont be able to start the car with this unhooked)

now here is the one test.....should be easy
by removing all wires including battery on the one side of the starter relay, continuity test through all the fuse links.
the links get kinda confusing but when you run into a parallel set, just move down to the link itself and read across it.
I was never really clear that you have / have not tested all fuse links.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #80 – November 18, 2012, 01:10:37 PM

Right now I am in the process of fully charging my battery. From 5-0, it is now at about 1.5. It should be fully charged in just a few minutes. The starter relay is just as you said, facing it, all the wires are on the right side (always hot) and the left post has only the small wire going to my starter. The small center post has the small red boot (key).

Somethings wrong.

Reply #81 – November 18, 2012, 02:34:33 PM

I'm outside checking the fuse box voltages. I will get back with you. Thanks!

Somethings wrong.

Reply #82 – November 18, 2012, 03:28:39 PM

First off, the illustration in my book does not match up perfectly. Also, I only count 11 fuses total.

#1-12.11V., #4-12.14V., #5-12.03V., #8-12.13V., #9-12.01V., #10-11.96V., #11-11.97V., #13-.015V #15-0V., #17-12.04V.

# 15 does not make any sense, my instrument lights work fine.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #83 – November 18, 2012, 05:35:09 PM

Now check for battery on the red wire on the fuel injectors. This will tell you that the EEC relay is working properly. Remember key the car!!:mullet:

Somethings wrong.

Reply #84 – November 18, 2012, 06:12:39 PM

On the red wire to a #1 fuel injector all I get is .69 in "accessories" and it drops to .049 when I try to start it. According to my manual #15 if for my license plate and it is working, also #13 is for my instrument panel and it is also functional (??).

Somethings wrong.

Reply #85 – November 18, 2012, 08:33:19 PM

http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=588.0

Read through this link. If you do each step, you'll find your exact problem. Also check the small black wire that goes to your grounding battery terminal. If this wire is off, you will have no computer. Your doing good, and not afraid to get your hands dirty.

Does the engine crank over, but not start? Your posts are sort of hard to follow at times...

Somethings wrong.

Reply #86 – November 18, 2012, 08:33:33 PM

Somethings wrong.

Reply #87 – November 18, 2012, 08:54:11 PM

There you are, 86. No power at the injectors with the key on means your PCM power relay either has no power, OR it's not activating, I'd put money on no power to the relay. Time to go back to look at the fuse links.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #88 – November 18, 2012, 09:11:33 PM

Check Fuse link L It's the smallest red one (20GA) by the solenoid, and check for power at pin 1 on the pcm. This will tell you if there is power into the relay or not. It's Bk/O, just like everything else you're looking at. It's not a great test, but with the battery undone, you can do a continuity check with your meter by measuring ohms from PCM pin 1 to the stud of the solenoid that has everything junctioned on it. Voltage drop would be better, but you already know you don't have power there, so it couldn't hurt to see how much resistance we're dealing with. <.5 ohm is ok, >1 ohm is bad. Anyplace in between, make sure your probes are making good contact.

See how much easier it is when you're not 'chasing balloons'? (Tom, love that term btw. I think I'll keep it)

Somethings wrong.

Reply #89 – November 18, 2012, 10:02:10 PM

Well, so far so good. Haystack, Too late and dark tonight to do anymore, but I will get on that link you sent me and check it out tomorrow. TFYK, by solenoid, you mean starter relay? Where do I get the numbering system for the PCM? Thanks!