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Topic: Somethings wrong. (Read 12774 times) previous topic - next topic

Somethings wrong.

Reply #150 –
Quote from: 86cougar;402855
Jcassity,
            I have 2-3 code readers stashed away somewhere, but it will take some doing finding them. Also, I have never used them, so this will be another first for me.

 
all you need is a paper clip
or a test light
or a paper clip and a 12v 2$ buzzer

see below

Somethings wrong.

Reply #151 –
per my diy link below my signature , here are the instructions with everything you need to know.



------------------------
Web based resources
**my favorite>> http://www.therangerstation.com
**http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/


Diagnostic testing with codes 3 step method

**For more detailed info and other options to pulling codes, visit the Tech library at therangerstation.com. Scroll down on the left and click on EEC-IV Diagnostics under the "computer" section.
To pull codes, locate your diagnostic connectors usually on the driver side engine bay.
There are two connectors, one large female one has 6 pins sort of triangle shaped. 4 pins along the bottom row and 2 on the top row. Count these pins by looking into the connector and counting each row left to right.
The second connector will be a single wire female plug as well located near the 6 pin female plug.

Below will be instructions on how to use a jumper wire to connect the "sig rtn" lead to the "sti". Here is where you would use a paper clip to make this jumper. The SIG RTN connetion is on the large connector , top row , right hand pin. (top row has two pins). The "STI" conneciton is the single wire lead near the diagnostic large connector. Read below and install the jumper when told to.

MEMORY CODES
Memory codes are problems that the computer has noticed in the past. If for example there was a loose wire to a solenoid that only lost contact while driving but was making contact while testing the system there would be NO HARD FAULT CODE. The code would show up IN MEMORY. The same would happen for a sensor that only went out of range occasionally. Memory codes come out AFTER the separator pulse.

NOTE: The computer will erase the memory after a certain number of engine re-starts if the problem does not repeat itself. The number of re-starts varies from 20 to 80 depending on the year of the vehicle. The later models keep memory longer.

Clearing Codes
These codes are kept in memory for 40 warm up cycles. To clear the codes for purposes of testing or confirming repair, perform the code reading procedure. When the fault codes begin to be displayed, de-activate the test by either disconnecting the jumper wire or releasing the test button on the hand scanner. Stopping the test during code transmission will erase the continuous memory. Do not disconnect the negative battery cable to clear the codes; the keep alive memory will be cleared and a new code (19) will be stored for loss of PCM power.

Below will mention using a test light instead of the check engine light during the instructions you will read. If you would like to be up near the engine and pull the codes then hook up the jumper wire when instructed and as described above. NOW, hook up a professional or riged up test light from the positive batter terminal to the large test connector , bottom row 2nd pin (STO pin) counting left to right looking into the plug. When you follow the steps below, the test light will strobe codes and how to decode them will follow below. I have used a 12dc buzzer i got out of an old microwave that gives me an audible tone. This makes it easier to focus on the paperwork end of the task so im not looking back and forth at a light and paper second guessing myself.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>START HERE
STEP 1
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Method OR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT METHOD

The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) on the dash (Engine Light) can be used to retrieve the stored codes. This method does not allow for any system investigation. This should only be used in the field where quick checks are needed. Follow the directions previously given for the scan tool procedure. To activate the tests, use a jumper wire to connect the signal return (SIG RTN) pin on the diagnostic connector to the Self-Test Input (STI) connector. The self test input (STI) line is the separate wire and connector with or near the diagnostic connector. Codes are transmitted with a pause between flashes. Code 32 would be sent as 3-flashes, a pause and then 2-flashes. A slightly longer pause separates the codes. The only way to repeat the code is to recycle the system. The Continuous Memory Codes are separated from the other codes by 6-seconds, a flash and then another 6-second delay. Compare the 2-digit and 3-digit Diagnostic Codes with the appropriate chart.

STEP 2

KEY ON ENGINE OFF (KOEO) TEST ************KOEO
NOTE: On 4.9L trucks with a manual transmission hold the clutch pedal in during this test.
On Diesel engine trucks hold the throttle to the floor during this test.

1. Make sure engine is fully warmed. If in doubt, run engine at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes.
2. Turn ignition off and wait 10 seconds for system to shut off. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual).
3. Hook up light and jumper (or a tester if you have one). Turn key to ON (do not start engine).
4. Fast Codes are output (ignore fast light flashes).
NOTE: Unhook self test input jumper (or tester if used) at any time during code output to erase memory.
5. Read hard faults.
6. Separator Pulse.
7. Read memory codes.
8. See code explanations and check components as necessary.
Use FIRST CODE OUTPUT and retest after any repairs are made.

STEP 3

KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) TEST ***************KOER
1. Make sure engine is fully warmed. If in doubt, run engine at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes.
2. Turn ignition off and wait 10 seconds for system to shut off. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual).
3. Hook up light and jumper (or tester if you have one).
4. Make sure vehicle is safe to run and start engine.
5. Engine I.D. should be output.
6. Step on brake and turn steering wheel 1/4 turn. If the vehicle has an overdrive cancel switch, push it.
7. If a "Goose" pulse is received, move throttle quickly 1/2 way down and release.
8. Fast Codes are output (ignore).
9. Read codes.
10. See code explanations and check components as necessary. Use FIRST CODE OUTPUT and retest after any repairs are made.



2 digit Code Definition

11 System checks OK
12 Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) - ISC
13 (O) ISC did not respond properly (extends to touch throttle then retracts for KOEO) - ISC
(R) Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high)
(M) ISC sticking, open ITS circuit or TP sticking
14 Ignition pickup was erratic - Ignition Systems
E4OD Transmission diesel RPM sensor - Diesel RPM sensor
15 (O) No Keep Alive Memory power to PCM pin 1 or bad PCM (Memory Test Failure)
(M) KAM (pin 1) was interrupted (was battery disconnected ?)
16 1.9L & 2.5L - Throttle stop set too high - IDLE or Idle Set Procedures
2.3L - RPM's too low - IDLE
(O) Electronic ignition - IDM circuit fault - Ignition Systems
17 1.9L & 2.5L - Throttle stop set too low - IDLE
18 (R) Check base timing & advance function - Timing Tests
(M) Ignition TACH signal erratic - Ignition Systems
19 (O) No Vehicle Power (pins 37 + 57) or bad PCM VPWR Diagnosis
(R) Erratic idle during test (reset throttle & retest) - Idle Set Procedures
Electronic ignition Cylinder ID sensor/circuit problem - Ignition Systems
21 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
22 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range - MAP
23 Throttle sensor out of range or throttle set too high - TPS
24 Intake Air Temperature(ACT) (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range - IAT VAT
25 Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) - KS
26 Mass Air Flow (MAF) or Vane Air Flow (VAF) out of range - MAF VAF
Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor out of range - Transmissions
27 Vehicle Speed Sensor problem - VSS
28 Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range - VAT
2.3L w/Electronic Ignition - Cyl ID, IDM low or right coil pack failure - Ignition Systems
29 Vehicle Speed Sensor problem - VSS
EGR CODES DEPEND ON WHAT SYSTEM TYPE THE VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH:
EVP is for vehicles equipped with EGR solenoid(s), with or without an EVP sensor
EVR is for vehicles equipped with an EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) and an EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor
PFE is for vehicles with Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) sensor and and an EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR)
If you don't know what type of system you have, go to the EVP heading, which is the first one.
There are pictures under the different headings to help you identify the system.
31 EVP - (O, R, M) EVP signal is/was out of range - EVP
EVR - (O, R, M) EVP signal is/was low - EVR
PFE - (O, R, M) PFE signal is/was low - PFE
32 EVP - (R) EGR not responding properly during test - EVP
EVR - (O, R, M) EVP signal is/was low - EVR
PFE - (R, M) PFE shows low pressure, EGR not seating or memory, not seating intermittently - PFE
33 ALL - (O, M) EGR did not open/ respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently - EVP EVR PFE
34 EVP - (R) EGR did not respond properly during test - EVP
EVR - (O, R, M) EVP sensor is/was high - EVR
PFE - (O, R, M) PFE sensor is/was out of range - PFE
35 EVP - (R) Engine RPM's too low to test EGR system - EVP
EVR - (O, R, M) EVP sensor signal is/was high - EVR
PFE - (O, R, M) PFE sensor signal is/was high - PFE
38 Idle Tracking Switch signal was intermittent - ISC
39 Transmission Torque Converter clutch not engaging - Transmissions
40 SERIES FUEL/AIR INJECTION CODES ON VEHICLES WITH DUAL OXYGEN SENSORS REFER TO THE RIGHT OR REAR SENSOR. EXCEPT: 1984-1988 3.8L ENGINES: LEFT SENSOR
41 (R) System lean - Fuel control
(M) System was lean for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching) - Fuel control
42 (R) System rich - Fuel control
(M) System was rich for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching) - Fuel control
43 (R) HO2S sensor not reading (run at 2000 rpm's for 2 minutes and retest - check for HO2S switching)
(M) Was lean at WOT for 3 seconds or more - Fuel control
44 AIR system inoperative - Air Injection
45 AIR not Diverting (AIRD) - Air Injection
Electronic Ignition - coil primary circuit failure - Ignition Systems
46 AIR Bypass (AIRB) not working - Air Injection
Electronic Ignition - primary circuit failure coil 2 - Ignition Systems
47 Low flow unmetered air (check for small vacuum leaks, injector o'rings, gaskets etc.)
E4OD transmission 4x4 switch/circuit problem - Transmissions
48 High flow unmetered air (check for large vacuum leak, inlet hoses etc.)
Electronic Ignition - coil primary circuit failure - Ignition Systems
49 Electronic Ignition - spout signal circuit problem - Ignition Systems
Transmission 1/2 shift problem - Transmissions
51 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor signal is/was too high - ECT
52 Power Steering Pressure Switch/circuit open - PSP
(R) Did you turn wheel during test ?
53 Throttle Position sensor too high - TPS
54 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) signal high - IAT VAT
55 No or low (under 7.5 V) Key Power to PCM pin 5
56 Vane Air Flow (VAF) or Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor high - VAF MAF
Transmission Oil Temperature sensor too high - Transmissions
57 Intermittent in Park/Neutral/ Switch or Neutral Pressure switch circuit - PNP or Transmissions
1990 Scorpio - Octane jumper installed (information only code - to inform you if it is installed or not)
58 Idle Tracking Switch (ITS) signal problem ISC
Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range or open - VAT
59 AXOD 4/3 circuit fault - Transmissions
3.0L SHO - Low speed fuel pump circuit problem - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
Transmission 2/3 shift problem - Transmissions
1990 Scorpio - Idle jumper installed (information only code - to inform you if it is installed or not)
61 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is or was too low - ECT
62 AXOD (KOEO only) 3/2 circuit short to ground - Transmissions
AXOD (KOEO AND KOER) 4/3 circuit failure - Transmissions
E4OD excessive converter clutch slippage - Transmissions
63 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) signal too low TPS
64 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) signal low or grounded - IAT VAT
65 Check intermittent HO2S (signal or ground) - Fuel Control
(R) E4OD truck - cycle OD cancel switch after engine ID is received - Transmissions
1984 3.8L ONLY - O, M Battery voltage high (check for electrical system overcharging)
66 Vane Air Flow (VAF) or Mass Air Flow (MAF) signal low - VAF MAF
Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) signal low (possibly grounded) - Transmissions
67 Park/Neutral circuit fault - PNP
Transmission Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor circuit - Transmissions
(M) Intermittent Park Neutral Position (PNP) sensor fault - PNP
68 Idle Tracking Switch (ITS) circuit (possibly grounded) - ISC
Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range or grounded - VAT
3.8L AXOD -Transmission Temperature Switch (TTS) open - Transmissions
Electronic Transmission - Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor was overheated - Transmissions
69 AXOD transmission (O) 3/2 switch closed (possible short circuit) - Transmissions
AXOD (M) 3/2 switch open (poss short to power) - Transmissions
E4OD 3/4 shift problem - Transmissions
70 (M) 3.8L AXOD - Data link to instrument cluster fault. Service any other EEC codes, erase memory and retest.
If code is still present refer to instrument cluster diagnosis manual.
71 (M) 1.9L TBI, 2.3L TBI, 2.5L TBI - ITS signal was grounded when throttle should have been opening ITS - ISC
ISC motor problem or Idle Tracking Switch (ITS) signal wire shorted to ground - ISC
(M) 1.9L MFI - PCM re-initialized. Possible electrical noise, case ground or intermittent VPWR problem - VPWR Diagnosis
(M) 3.8L AXOD - Data link to instrument cluster fault - See code 70
72 (R) No MAP or MAF change in "goose" test - retest, check for frequency or voltage change - MAP MAF
(M) 1.9L MFI - VPWR circuit to PCM was intermittent - VPWR Diagnosis
(M) 2.3L T/C - PCM re-initialized. Possible electrical noise, case ground or intermittent VPWR problem - VPWR Diagnosis
(M) 3.8L AXOD - Message center data link circuit fault - See code 70
73 (O) Rerun test, if 73 is still output replace TPS
(R) No Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) change in "goose" test. Must get at least 25% throttle rotation - TPS
74 Was brake depressed after engine ID was received ?
Brake On Off (BOO) signal open or short to ground - BOO
75 Brake On Off (BOO) signal shorted to power - BOO
76 Vane Air Flow (VAF) did not respond to "goose" test - VAF
77 System did not receive "goose" test - see TESTS
78 (M) VPWR circuit to PCM was intermittent or the PCM is bad VPWR Diagnosis
79 A/C is on or pin 10 is shorted to power
80 SERIES CODES GENERALLY ARE CIRCUIT PROBLEMS THAT COULD BE WIRING, RELAY OR SOLENOID RELATED.
ONLY ONE OF THE CIRCUITS LISTED UNDER THE CODE IS USED ON EACH VEHICLE. THE FAULT IS IN WHICHEVER SOLENOID OR CIRCUIT IS PRESENT ON THE VEHICLE
81 Boost control solenoid - Solenoids
AIRD solenoid - Solenoids and Air Injection
3.0L SHO - Inlet Air Solenoid - Solenoids
82 2.3L TC - Fan Control wire shorted to ground - A/C and Fan Circuits
AIRB solenoid - Solenoids and Air Injection
3.8L SC - Super Charger Bypass Solenoid - Solenoids
83 High Electro Drive Fan circuit fault - A/C and Fan Circuits
EGR Control solenoid - Solenoids
3.0L SHO - Low Speed Fuel Pump Relay circuit - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
84 EGR Vacuum Regulator - Solenoids
EGR cutoff solenoid - Solenoids
EGR Vent solenoid - Solenoids
85 2.3L T/C Automatic - 3/4-4/3 Shift solenoid - Transmissions
CANP solenoid (ALL 1989) - Solenoids
(M) 1.9L MFI - System has corrected rich condition - Fuel control
86 2.3L or 2.9L Truck - A4LD 3/4 shift solenoid - Transmissions
(M) 1.9L MFI - System has corrected lean condition - Fuel control
87 (O) Fuel pump circuit fault (check inertia switch) - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
Vehicles with 2BBL carb - Temperature Compensated Accelerator Pump Solenoid - Solenoids
(M) intermittent in fuel pump primary circuit - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
NOTE: On some Escorts with automatic seat belts this code is normal IN MEMORY due to the wiring
88 Throttle Kicker Solenoid - Solenoids
Variable Voltage Choke relay circuit fault - VVC
Fan Control circuit fault - A/C and Fan Circuits
A4LD - Converter Clutch Override solenoid - Transmissions
Electronic Ignition - IDM, DPI or spout circuit fault - Ignition Systems
89 A4LD - Converter Clutch Override solenoid - Transmissions
AXOD Torque Converter Control solenoid circuit - Transmissions
Exhaust Heat Control (heat riser) solenoid circuit - Solenoids
90 SERIES FUEL/AIR INJECTION CODES ON VEHICLES WITH DUAL OXYGEN SENSORS REFER TO THE LEFT OR FRONT SENSOR. EXCEPT: 1984-1988 3.8L ENGINES: RIGHT SENSOR
91 (R, M) System running lean - Fuel control
Transmission SS 1 circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions
92 (R) System running rich - Fuel control
Transmission SS 2 circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions
93 (O) Throttle linkage binding or bad ISC motor ISC (R) HO2S not reading - Fuel control
Transmission TCC circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions
94 AIR system inoperative - Air Injection
Transmission TCC circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions
95 (O) Fuel pump: open, bad ground or always on - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
(R) AIR not Diverting (AIRD) - Air Injection
(M) Possible bad fuel pump ground or open between fuel pump and pin 8 at PCM (Fuel Pump Monitor signal) - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
96 (O) Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
(R) AIR Bypass (AIRB) not working - Air Injection
(M) (Service 87 code first if present) Fuel pump relay or battery power feed was open - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
97 E4OD OD cancel light circuit failure - Transmissions
98 (R) Did not pass KOEO yet (Get 11 in KOEO first)
Transmission EPC circuit/solenoid failure - Transmissions
99 (R) ISC needs to learn (Let idle for 2 minutes; Erase memory and retest)
Transmission EPC circuit/solenoid failure - Transmissions
Definitions

ACT Air Charge Temperature Sensor / BP See MAP /
EEC Electronic Engine Control System
ECT Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve
-- EVP Valve Position Sensor
EGR / HEGO Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor
KOEO Key On Engine Off
KOER Key On Engine Running
MAF Mass Air Flow Sensor
MAP Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
MLP Manual Lever Position
PCM Powertrain Control Module
SPOUT Distributor Jumper to Allow Initial Timing
TP Throttle Position Sensor



3 digit Code Definitions

111 System checks OK
112 (O,M) Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is/was low or grounded - IAT
113 (O,M) IAT sensor is/was high or open - IAT
114 (O,R) IAT sensor out of range - IAT
116 (O,R) Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
117 (O,M) ECT sensor is/was low or grounded - ECT
118 (O,M) ECT sensor is/was high or open - ECT
121 (O,R,M) Throttle Position (TP) sensor out of range - TPS
122 (O,M) TP low (possibly grounded or open circuit) - TPS
123 (O,M) TP is/was high or short to power - TPS
124 (M) TP voltage was higher than expected - Fuel control
125 (M) TP voltage was lower than expected - Fuel control
126 (O,R,M) MAP or BARO sensor out of range - ">MAP
128 (M) MAP vacuum has not been changing - check vacuum lines - ">MAP
129 (R) No MAP or Mass Air Flow sensor change during "goose" test - MAP MAF
136 (R) Oxygen sensor not switching/system lean Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
137 (R) Oxygen sensor not switching/system rich Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
138 (R) Fault in Cold Start Injector circuit - Fuel control
139 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
144 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
157 (R,M) Mass Air Flow signal is/was low or grounded - MAF
158 (O,R,M) MAF sensor is/was high or short to power - MAF
159 (O,R) MAF sensor is/was out of range - MAF
167 (R) No Throttle Position sensor change in "goose" test (must get at least 25% rotation) - TPS
171 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system was at adaptive limits - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
172 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
173 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was rich - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
174 (M) Oxygen sensor was slow in switching Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
175 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system was at adaptive limits - Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
176 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
177 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system was rich Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
178 (M) Oxygen sensor was slow in switching Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
179 (M) Fuel system was rich at part throttle Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
181 (M) Fuel system was lean at part throttle Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
182 (M) Fuel system was rich at idle Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
183 (M) Fuel system was lean at idle Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control
184 (M) Mass Air (MAF) output higher than expected - Fuel control
185 (M) Mass Air (MAF) output lower than expected - Fuel control
186 (M) Injector pulse width longer than expected or Mass Air Flow (MAF) lower than expected - Fuel control
187 Injector pulse width shorter than expected or Mass Air Flow (MAF) higher than expected - Fuel control
188 (M) Fuel system was rich at part throttle - Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
189 (M) Fuel system was lean at part throttle - Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
191 (M) Fuel system was rich at idle - Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
192 (M) Fuel system was lean at idle - Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
193 Failure in Flexible Fuel (FF) sensor circuit - Fuel control
194 (M) Perform cylinder balance test to check for inoperative injectors
195 (M) Perform cylinder balance test to check for inoperative injectors
211 (M) Ignition PIP signal was erratic or missing - Ignition Systems
212 (M) Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault - Ignition Systems
213 (R) Ignition SPOUT or SAW circuit open or shorted - Ignition Systems
214 (M) Error in Cylinder ID (CID) circuit or signal - Ignition Systems
215 (M) Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 1 - Ignition Systems
216 (M) Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 2 - Ignition Systems
217 (M) Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 3 - Ignition Systems
218 (M) IDM signal open or high or left coil pack failure - Ignition Systems
219 (M) SPOUT circuit failure, timing defaulted to 10 degrees - follow code 213 diagnosis
222 (M) IDM open or high or right coil pack failure - Ignition Systems
223 (M) Dual Plug (DPI), SPOUT or IDM circuit fault - Ignition Systems
224 (M) Failure in ignition coil primary circuit - Ignition Systems
225 (R) Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) - KS
226 (O) Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal fault - Ignition Systems
232 (M) EI primary coil circuit failure - Ignition Systems
238 (M) EI primary circuit failure - ignition coil 4 - Ignition Systems
311 (R) AIR system not working - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Air Injection
312 (R) AIR not diverting - Air Injection
313 (R) AIR not bypassing - Air Injection
314 (R) AIR inoperative, Left or Front HO2S - Air Injection
326 (R,M) Pressure Feedback EGR shows low pressure EGR not seating or not seating intermittently - PFE
327 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was low - EVR or PFE
328 (O,R,M) EGR Valve Position (EVP) is/was low - EVR
332 (R,M) EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittantly - EVR or PFE
334 (O,R,M) EVP sensor is/was high - EVR
335 (O) EGR feedback signal is/was out of range - EVR or PFE
336 (O,R,M) PFE sensor signal is/was was high - ">PFE
337 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was was high - EVR
338 (M) Cooling system did not heat up (check cooling system / thermostat operation)
339 (M) Cooling system overheated (check cooling system / thermostat operation)
341 (O) Octane jumper installed (information only code to notify you if it is installed)
411 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high) - ISC
412 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) - ISC
452 (M) Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) problem
511 (O) No power to PCM pin 1 or bad PCM (processor)
512 (M) Memory power (PCM pin 1) was interrupted - Was battery disconnected ?
513 (O) Replace processor (PCM) (internal failure)
519 (O) PSP switch/circuit open - PSP
521 (R) Wheel not turned during test or PSP problem - PSP
522 (O) Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault - PNP
transmission MLP sensor out of range in park - Transmissions
524 Problem in low speed fuel pump circuit - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
525 (O,M) Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault - PNP
528 (M) System shows voltage at pin 10 (is A/C on ?) or pin 30 (PNP, CPP switch) - PNP
529 (M) Data Communications Link to processor failure
Service any EEC codes, erase memory and retest. If code is still present refer to instrument cluster diagnosis manual.
533 (M) Data Communications Link to instrument cluster failure - see 529
536 (O,R,M) Brake On Off open or shorted to ground - BOO
538 (R) System did not receive "goose" test - TESTS
539 (O) System shows voltage at PCM pin 10. Is A/C on ?
542 (O,M) Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on - - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
543 (O) Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
(M) (Service 556 code first if present) Fuel pump relay or battery power feed was open - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
551 Problem in Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) solenoid/circuit - Solenoids
552 (O) AIRB solenoid/circuit failure - Solenoids
553 (O) AIRD solenoid/circuit failure - Solenoids
554 (O) Fuel Press Regulator Control solenoid/circuit fault - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
556 (O,M) Fuel pump relay primary circuit fault - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
557 (O,M) Low speed pump relay primary circuit fault - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
558 (O) EGR vacuum regulator solenoid/circuit failure - EVR or PFE or Solenoids
559 (O) A/C relay primary circuit fault - A/C and Fan Circuits
563 (O) High Fan Control (HFC) circuit failure - A/C and Fan Circuits
564 (O) Fan Control (FC) circuit failure - A/C and Fan Circuits
565 (O) Canister Purge 1 solenoid/circuit failure - Solenoids
566 (O) transmission 3/4 shift solenoid/circuit - Transmissions
569 (O) Canister Purge 2 solenoid/circuit failure - Solenoids
578 (M) A/C pressure sensor VREF short to ground - A/C and Fan Circuits
579 (M) ACP sensor did not change with A/C on - A/C and Fan Circuits
581 (M) Cooling fan current was excessive - A/C and Fan Circuits
582 (O) Open cooling fan circuit - A/C and Fan Circuits
583 (M) Fuel pump current was excessive - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
584 (M) Open power ground circuit - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
585 (M) A/C clutch current was excessive - A/C and Fan Circuits
586 (M) Open circuit in A/C clutch - A/C and Fan Circuits
587 (O, M) Communication problem between PCM and Variable Control Relay Module (VCRM) - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
617 (M) Transmission shift failure (1/2 shift) - Transmissions
618 (M) Transmission shift failure (2/3 shift) - Transmissions
619 (M) Transmission shift failure (3/4 shift) - Transmissions
621 (O) Solenoid/circuit failure - shift solenoid 1 - Transmissions
622 (O) Solenoid/circuit failure - shift solenoid 2 - Transmissions
624 (O,M) Solenoid/circuit failure -Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) current is high - Transmissions
625 (O,M) Solenoid/circuit failure - Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) current is low - Transmissions
626 (O) Transmission Coast Clutch (CCS) Solenoid/circuit fault - Transmissions
627 (O) Torque Converter Clutch circuit fault - Transmissions
628 (M) Excessive converter clutch slippage - Transmissions
629 (O,M) Torque Converter Clutch circuit fault - Transmissions
631 (O) Overdrive Cancel Light circuit problem - Transmissions
632 (R) E4OD - Transmission Control Switch (TCS) should be cycled once between engine ID and Goose test
633 (O) 4x4L switch should be in 4x2 or 4x4 high for the test
634 (O,M) Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault
Electronic shift transmission - Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor out of range in PARK - Transmissions
636 (O,R) Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor out of range - Transmissions
637 (O,M) TOT sensor is/was high or open - Transmissions
638 (O,M) TOT sensor is/was low or grounded - Transmissions
639 (R,M) Transmission Speed sensor (TSS) circuit fault - Transmissions
641 (O) Transmission solenoid/circuit failure Shift Solenoid 3 - Transmissions
643 (O)(M) Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) circuit - Transmissions
645 (M) Transmission 1st gear failure - Transmissions
646 (M) Transmission 2nd gear failure - Transmissions
647 (M) Transmission 3rd gear failure - Transmissions
648 (M) Transmission 4th gear failure - Transmissions
649 (M) Transmission EPC system failure - Transmissions
651 (M) Transmission EPC solenoid/circuit fault - Transmissions
652 (O) Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) circuit fault - Transmissions
654 (O) Transmission selector not in PARK - Transmissions
656 (M) Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) slip - Transmissions
657 (M) Transmission temperature was excessive - Transmissions
998 (R) Did not pass Key On Engine Off test yet (Get 111 in KOEO first)
(O) Transmission Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) solenoid/circuit fault - Transmissions
Code Definitions:

ACT Air Charge Temperature Sensor
BP See MAP
EEC Electronic Engine Control System
ECT Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve
EVP EGR Valve Position Sensor
HEGO Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor
KOEO Key On Engine Off
KOER Key On Engine Running
MAF Mass Air Flow Sensor
MAP Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
MLP Manual Lever Position
PCM Powertrain Control Module
SPOUT Distributor Jumper to Allow Initial Timing
TP Throttle Position Sensor

Somethings wrong.

Reply #152 –
Gentlemen,
                I turned the key to "accessories", hooked up my jumper as instructed in option #3. I waited for codes and nothing. My engine light stayed on but I had forgotten that it does that. It  will turn off after I drive for about a mile. So, I went to option #1 and hooked up a buzzer. Nothing in "accessories", turn the car on and I got 4 beeps in a row and nothing after that.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #153 –
Right now I think what I need is a process. I have check the IAC valve, read codes, and timing. I don't think I can test the IAC valve until every thing else is working properly. I'm not getting any codes that makes sense. so, do I try to tune the car first? Thanks!

Somethings wrong.

Reply #154 –
I did what I was advised to do with the IAC valve. I went and tried to change the distributor on tooth in both directions and it would not start. so, how do I get the timing to 10 degrees before TDC? I don't think I'm moving it more than one tooth at a time.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #155 –
Quote from: 86cougar;402895
Gentlemen,
                I turned the key to "accessories", hooked up my jumper as instructed in option #3. I waited for codes and nothing. My engine light stayed on but I had forgotten that it does that. It  will turn off after I drive for about a mile. So, I went to option #1 and hooked up a buzzer. Nothing in "accessories", turn the car on and I got 4 beeps in a row and nothing after that.

Forget about the "accessories" position of the ignition switch. This doesn't power up the EEC.
Put ignition in the RUN position without starting. This will run self tests and present "on demand codes" and then "memory codes".
This is called KOEO (Key On Engine Off) mode.

KOER (Key On Engine Running) mode will present the engine code (4 beeps for 8 cylinder) then run for a couple of minutes before presenting codes.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #156 –
Like I said, my engine light will stay on for about a mile of driving before it goes out. I have had the buzzer set up and the "RUN" position for about 8 minutes and the engine light is still on and no buzzer. I did get 4 beeps when it was running, but I never heard any thing after that.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #157 –
Quote from: 86cougar;402917
Like I said, my engine light will stay on for about a mile of driving before it goes out.
On the basic instrument panel the red engine light indicates low oil pressure or overheating. It normally goes off after the engine starts and the oil pressure comes up. It has nothing to do with the EEC or codes.
Quote
I have had the buzzer set up and the "RUN" position for about 8 minutes and the engine light is still on and no buzzer. I did get 4 beeps when it was running, but I never heard any thing after that.
Right the engine light should stay on when the engine is not running.

A couple of questions:
1.On your test jumper set-up, do you jumper the STI pig-tail to Signal Return in the 6 pin connector or to ground?
2. Without any test jumpers, when you put the ignition in RUN without starting does the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds then shut off? If it does, this indicates that the software in the EEC is running.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #158 –
My mistake... I meant "service light". I think I know what's going on. About 2-3 years ago I noticed then that I could no longer use my timing light to tune my engine. So, I have tuned it by ear since. I am willing to bet that my timing chain jumped a tooth way back then. What I don't understand is the fact that my car has always started good and run well. It also has past emissions every year.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #159 –
Time for me to buy a new engine or have this one rebuilt.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #160 –
Quote from: 86cougar;402929
About 2-3 years ago I noticed then that I could no longer use my timing light to tune my engine. So, I have tuned it by ear since.

How does one tune an engine, especially one controlled by the EEC, by ear? Under the very best of cirspoogestances, you would be guessing... being wrong 99.9999% of the time. There are only a couple of ways that you can actually "tune" an engine, with an EEC in control.  The first is valve train timing, by using a degree wheel to degree the cam and using either adjustable or offset timing sets. The second is initial or static timing, accomplished on a stock ignition by removing the spout connector, which effectively prevents the EEC from making the thousands of timing adjustments made during normal operation.
     
 
Quote from: 86cougar;402929
I am willing to bet that my timing chain jumped a tooth way back then.


I doubt it for a couple of reasons.  The first being that if the chain has enough slack to jump once, there is nothing preventing it from doing so again.  Secondly, such a change would be more that the EEC could compensate for and would very likely throw all kinds of codes, or knock and ping so much that the car would be all but undrivable, let alone idle smoothly.
 
Quote from: 86cougar;402934
Time for me to buy a new engine or have this one rebuilt.


I have no idea of how many miles are on your motor, but if she is passing emissions, a rebuild might not be at all necessary.  More than likely, you may be at the point of needing the services of a competent mechanic, who will have the tools, equipment and training to do a compression test, test for timing chain stretch, etc.  I am not saying that you can't do all of these things, but it is sometimes more cost effective to pay for the services of a professional than waste your time and resources "chasing bubbles" as Tom puts it.  It is also entirely possible that you have more than a single problem to troubleshoot, in which case, even the best technicians sometimes agonize over, due tot he odd set of combines symptoms.  Sometimes, one problems masks the symptoms of one or more additional problems, all of which need to be traced down and corrected.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #161 –
Ok clearly at this point you need professional help with this car. I have the suspicion that it is HACKED UP by your own admission. Clearly if the car runs you can retrieve codes. Unless you messed with the ALDL connector. And at this point i think you just might have. By the way if you mentioned that you car has an SES light some early fords did not!!! I think you would have saved us a lot of lap top time. And brow beating. Because when you blew the fuse link to the EEC relay that would not allow it to energize and I would have immediately sent you to the EEC relay and my fingers would have had time to HEAL !!! No EEC relay no power to the ECM NO SES LIGHT, HELLO !!!  When shooting troubles all info is necessary. As for you thinking your chain jumped it is possible and when you had this car in a million pieces why was that ignored. You clearly pointed it out after you dug in to that engine at least 4 times in the past weeks and ignored a stretched chain. Something is going on here that does not meet the EYE!!!! But then again i am intrigued with your process in fixing this car. And i give you an A for effort. I hope you have another car as a daily driver. And just a thought. Do you have a digital camera.  You failed to post photos of things i asked. It is no big deal and you just might not have one Thanks Tom

Sorry just being honest!!! No car can have all these issues!!! And run???

:toilet:
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Somethings wrong.

Reply #162 –
Like I said on my other "Timing" post, I need to get ready to go to a wake today. I will get back with you. I will do the compression check later and #1 cylinder is on the passenger side first cylinder by the alternator. Thanks, for all the support!!! Oh. I will get my camera working so I can send pictures!!!

Somethings wrong.

Reply #163 –
posting pics
get them on your computer and resize to max of 145k per picture.
  "use microsoft picture manager to do this"
  Right click on any one of your pics and "open with" microsoft picture manager"
  right click, "view thumbnails
  right click "select all"
  goto to edit and then pick resize picture
  next locate the area where there is a box to change the picture size in a percentage.......  reduce it to its original width / height.
 close and save.

***you may want to have a folder for your originals,, the ones you resize will be less detailed.  make duplicate folders and only resize the pics you are uploading here if you want.
 
type your post
click on "go advanced" (new screen pops up)
down below click on manage attachements (separate screen pops up)
click on "add files"
--within "add files" click on "select files
  -- this will allow you to browse where you stored your pics on your computer
  -- double click on the pic and it will be added to the list
  --if you see a "+" sign, then click to add another picture (limit of 3 per post)
  OR.... you may see three empty spaces to browse for pictures.

click on upload and the pics will appear in a box down on the bottom.
click the check mark to "select all"
off to the right bottom click on "done"

the second screen will close and you will be back to your post you are typing but you will see the pictures in an icon down below.
finish typing your post then click on "submit reply"

Somethings wrong.

Reply #164 –
First thing I will do is a compression check (yes, I have a tester). Then I need to get the car timed so it will run again. then I can try for codes again. I do have a cell phone, so if I can figure out how to download them, I will. It should be easy checking the timing chain for slop. I should have a little time in the morning before we celebrate Thanksgiving Day.