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Topic: 50tbrd88's T5 swap thread (Read 9545 times) previous topic - next topic

50tbrd88's T5 swap thread

Reply #15 –
Yes, I hate having to take an hour or two to make a parts run.  Wrestling the exhaust all back into place was a real bear as well...a lift would have helped things a bunch.

I hope we make good progress tonight!
'88 'bird, 10.9:1 306 w/TFS top end, forged rods/pistons, T-5 swap & bunch of other stuff, 1-family owned, had it since ‘98, 5.0tbrd88 on Instagram and YouTube

50tbrd88's T5 swap thread

Reply #16 –
If you change the tranny fluid go to the Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF.  I have used it in the T-5 in my Coupe for over 10 years and I beat on that car quite a bit and have had zero issues relative to the fluid.  Had it rebuilt about five years ago but I bought it used so who knows how many miles it had on it then.  It was just normal wear and tear as far as the builder could tell.

Some may frown on this but I use two quarts of the Mobil 1 synthetic ATF and one quart of the Mobil 1 synthetic rear gear oil.  Its just a personal preference and from what we can see (a couple of my buddies run this as well) the transmissions have held up better over time.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

50tbrd88's T5 swap thread

Reply #17 –
Quote from: Aerocoupe;360097
If you change the tranny fluid go to the Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF.  I have used it in the T-5 in my Coupe for over 10 years and I beat on that car quite a bit and have had zero issues relative to the fluid.  Had it rebuilt about five years ago but I bought it used so who knows how many miles it had on it then.  It was just normal wear and tear as far as the builder could tell.

Some may frown on this but I use two quarts of the Mobil 1 synthetic ATF and one quart of the Mobil 1 synthetic rear gear oil.  Its just a personal preference and from what we can see (a couple of my buddies run this as well) the transmissions have held up better over time.

Darren

 
I already put conventional ATF in it, but will keep that in mind when I change it.  That's interesting...I have a T-5 tech manual and I'm fairly certain it says to not use synthetic.  Sounds like that's incorrect though if you ran it that long without problems.
'88 'bird, 10.9:1 306 w/TFS top end, forged rods/pistons, T-5 swap & bunch of other stuff, 1-family owned, had it since ‘98, 5.0tbrd88 on Instagram and YouTube

50tbrd88's T5 swap thread

Reply #18 –
I also use the factory suggested ATF. No issues at all. The Sport is really fun to drive with the 5 speed. You'll love it.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

50tbrd88's T5 swap thread

Reply #19 –
I read that you had already filled it with the factory suggest ATF but was just giving an alternative.  If you search around you will find that Mobil 1 has been approved by Tremec and several builders are using the Amsoil synthetic.  These both are compatable with the blockers in the T-5.  The tech manual you have is current but has not been updated in years and the synthetics have evolved since then.  Some people swear by the Mobil 1 and others by the Amsoil but again there is absolutely nothing wrong with the regular ATF.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

50tbrd88's T5 swap thread

Reply #20 –
I have driven the car with the T5!!!  There is a little problem with the clutch pedal adjustment, however.  I pulled upwards on the clutch pedal so that the quadrant is in the "notch" furthest forward but the only engagement I get on the clutch is literally all the way on the floor.

Is there any other way to adjust it?  Surely there is a way to get the quadrant to ratchet further forward and pull more cable.

Other than the pedal adjustment, the car drives GREAT.  Runs smooth down the road with no shimmy's, shakes, or other drama.  The used transmission I bought seems to be in great shape with no odd noises or anything.  I am still not sure if my speedo is correct...it seems to be reading high.  I counted the teeth on the speedo drive gear and there appear to by 7, I am running the red 21 tooth (?) speedo gear.  by everything I've read this should be optimum with the 3.73's I am running.  Minor detail...
'88 'bird, 10.9:1 306 w/TFS top end, forged rods/pistons, T-5 swap & bunch of other stuff, 1-family owned, had it since ‘98, 5.0tbrd88 on Instagram and YouTube

50tbrd88's T5 swap thread

Reply #21 –
double post
'88 'bird, 10.9:1 306 w/TFS top end, forged rods/pistons, T-5 swap & bunch of other stuff, 1-family owned, had it since ‘98, 5.0tbrd88 on Instagram and YouTube

50tbrd88's T5 swap thread

Reply #22 –
I'll go Mobil 1 when I swap the fluid in the tranny next time. I run Mobil 1 fluids in the engine and differential as well.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

50tbrd88's T5 swap thread

Reply #23 –
Doing a little research today on my clutch adjustment problem.  I found this article on corral: http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/clutcha.htm

Have you guys ever attempted "method 2" the article discusses?  Anyone think this will help me?
'88 'bird, 10.9:1 306 w/TFS top end, forged rods/pistons, T-5 swap & bunch of other stuff, 1-family owned, had it since ‘98, 5.0tbrd88 on Instagram and YouTube

50tbrd88's T5 swap thread

Reply #24 –
I have an aftermarket billet quadrant and an adjustable cable. I have the original parts in a bag in my tool box.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

50tbrd88's T5 swap thread

Reply #25 –
So will I have to go aftermarket on the cable or are were there factory adjustable ones available?  From what I've read the Ford clutch cables are the best out there.

Jeez I bet it will be a pain to change that quadrant with the pedals in the car.  Wish I would have just got one and installed it while I had everything out.
'88 'bird, 10.9:1 306 w/TFS top end, forged rods/pistons, T-5 swap & bunch of other stuff, 1-family owned, had it since ‘98, 5.0tbrd88 on Instagram and YouTube

50tbrd88's T5 swap thread

Reply #26 –
If you have an aftermarket quadrant, you need a firewall adjuster (mine wouldn't fit with the big factor brake booster) and/or an adjustable cable. My cable without a firewall adjuster has been fine. The firewall adjuster makes it easy to adjust from under the hood instead of under the car. It only takes a few minutes to adjust under the car (Practice I suppose).
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

50tbrd88's T5 swap thread

Reply #27 –
Quadrant change in the car sucks but it can be done.  I cut mine up with a pneumatic saw and then it was not problem.  The saw fit up in the work space and I just hacked the stocker down until it was manageable.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SP100A1798S1705453203P?prdNo=22&blockNo=72&blockType=G72

The aluminum quadrant installs with no issues as it is not as bulky as the stock POS.  I have both the firewall adjuster and adjustable cable on both of my cars but I am running the SN95 boosters so the firewall adjuster is not an issue.  I have not had an adjustable cable break and ran the same one on my Coupe for 8 years.  Replaced it due to the sheath being in bad shape from chaffing on the stock K-Member so I replaced it when I put the MM tubular unit in a few years ago.  I run the adjustable clutch cables from Steeda:

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/ST-1720000/82-95-Mustang-Steeda-Adjustable-Clutch-Cable

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

50tbrd88's T5 swap thread

Reply #28 –
I am curious what happened on the clutch lock out wiring?

50tbrd88's T5 swap thread

Reply #29 –
Quote from: flylear45;360194
I am curious what happened on the clutch lock out wiring?

 
Oops I forgot to mention that.  I ended up just jumpering the safety switch and going without it.  ;)

I did get my clutch pedal adjustment lined out tonight.  I used the "method 2" mentioned in that corral link I posted earlier.  I just pushed up on that tab until it clicked once and now my clutch pedal grabs several inches off the floorboard.  I drove the car about 20 miles and so far so good!  Eventually I plan to upgrade to an adjustable cable and new quadrant.

The only thing I need to finish up is to find a way to attach the shifter trim .  The tabs that hold it down on the front section are broken so I'm afraid I may have to use silicone or something to get me by until I get a new bezel.  I also am going to try and put in the 23-tooth speedo gear I had in my AOD to see if it gets my speedo closer to being correct.
'88 'bird, 10.9:1 306 w/TFS top end, forged rods/pistons, T-5 swap & bunch of other stuff, 1-family owned, had it since ‘98, 5.0tbrd88 on Instagram and YouTube