Clutch or Compressor? July 26, 2010, 07:05:22 PM So, in this thread I speak of the a/c compressor not working right.Here's what's going down ...with the A/C off, the pulley works fine, no issues at all. When the A/C is turned on, it'll start smoking, although the pulley still rotates with no apparent issues.Should I look into replacing the compressor or the clutch assembly first? Quote Selected
Clutch or Compressor? Reply #1 – July 26, 2010, 07:11:32 PM Compressors are a dime a dozen. Throw a known good one on and forget about it. Quote Selected
Clutch or Compressor? Reply #2 – July 26, 2010, 07:30:09 PM Quote from: jandmmustangs;329592Compressors are a dime a dozen. Throw a known good one on and forget about it.I'm seeing 285$ for a new Motorcraft compressor from O'reilly's w/o the clutch and am waiting for the store to get a price on a Motorcraft rebuilt unit. I'm seeing about 90$ for the Motorcraft clutch assembly. Quote Selected
Clutch or Compressor? Reply #3 – July 26, 2010, 07:58:48 PM I know they're expensive new. Im just used to having a few good ones lying around. Quote Selected
Clutch or Compressor? Reply #4 – July 26, 2010, 08:12:39 PM With the engine off grab the center of the pulley and see if it turns. If it doesn't your compressor's seized. If it does either your clutch is slipping from wear or the magnetic coil isn't strong enough to engauge it all the way. There's also the possibility that your E-fan isn't turning, causing excessive pressures which might cause the clutch to slip. Quote Selected
Clutch or Compressor? Reply #5 – July 26, 2010, 08:19:48 PM Quote from: Thunder Chicken;329600There's also the possibility that your E-fan isn't turningE-fan?edit - I like how you highlighted with the engine off Quote Selected
Clutch or Compressor? Reply #6 – July 27, 2010, 05:11:59 AM Electric fan. Assuming your MN12 has one. If not, it may be the fan clutch. Quote Selected
Clutch or Compressor? Reply #7 – July 27, 2010, 05:32:19 AM Quote from: Thunder Chicken;329635Electric fan. Assuming your MN12 has one. If not, it may be the fan clutch.That's what I was thinking you were referring to. The fan's not driven by the accessory belt, so I'm sure that can be safely excluded from any list of issues. Quote Selected
Clutch or Compressor? Reply #8 – July 27, 2010, 10:23:55 AM If the E-fan isn't working your A/C pressures can get extremely high and stall the compressor, causing the clutch to slip. This problem would show itself if you had gauges attached (your high side readings would be very high). Your E-fan should come on any time the A/C is on. Quote Selected
Clutch or Compressor? Reply #9 – July 27, 2010, 05:12:27 PM Quote from: Thunder Chicken;329650If the E-fan isn't working your A/C pressures can get extremely high and stall the compressor, causing the clutch to slip. This problem would show itself if you had gauges attached (your high side readings would be very high). Your E-fan should come on any time the A/C is on.See, I'm slow :)I've got the car at the shop, right now, although it'll be another day or two before they get to it.As best as I remember, the fan's working fine. When my wife rolled in, and I looked where the smoke was coming from, I recall the fan was working. When I drove it home, it didn't get above normal temp.If the shop tells me the fan's bad, I won't be surprised now. Thank you, sir! Quote Selected
Clutch or Compressor? Reply #10 – July 27, 2010, 10:32:41 PM IF the clutch starts smoking almost immediately as soon as the A/C is turned on you mostly likely have a compressor problem... IF it were the fan, the engine would no doubt be overheating... On a TC I had that the fans were not operating, the A/C started cooling normally but evaporator temps soon rose till the point there was no cooling, clutch never slipped... If the car was moving, the A/C marginally cooled... Quote Selected
Clutch or Compressor? Reply #11 – July 28, 2010, 07:59:23 PM Quote from: TurboCoupe50;329749IF the clutch starts smoking almost immediately as soon as the A/C is turned on you mostly likely have a compressor problem... IF it were the fan, the engine would no doubt be overheating...Yup, that's what was going on. I don't particularly like that it's going to cost as much as it is going to, but I want to keep the 'underbird in showroom condition. So, all Motorcraft parts are going in, even though it'll raise the bill by a little bit.Right now I'll be getting the A/C Compressor & clutch assembly changed, and the system charged. I figure I'll go ahead and have the shop put in a new water pump so I don't have to worry about that later on. And, considering they've got to flush the radiator when they do the water pump, I'm going to go ahead and have the lower radiator hose replaced at the same time. So, this'll end up costing me right around 1600$.I'm glad I've got some extra guns around to help fund Project 'underbird's recovery. Quote Selected
Clutch or Compressor? Reply #12 – July 28, 2010, 08:22:10 PM That's very spendy. I have no idea what's involved to swap out the water pump on the 3.8 but I think it's possible on the 5.0 in a morning (<4 hours) and the compressor/clutch assembly is minutes (again, no idea where it's at exactly on the 3.8's). I would think that such a job, with new Motorcraft parts, would come in around $500 after markup for a Motorcraft compressor, clutch (I priced them separately at ~$350 total for the pair but not 100% certain if the $210 compressor comes with a clutch), water pump, and lower radiator hose and then 6 hours at $85/hour, coming out to about $1000 for both at an expensive shop with all Ford parts. Add coolant and A/C for another $50 in materials. As long as they don't break any bolts or studs off, I don't see why it couldn't all actually be completed in under 4 hours by a shop that knows what they're doing. Am I too far off guys? The labor sounds like what we see with shops randomly quoting numbers based off of the more compact front/all wheel drive engine bays.Does that price include anything but the water pump and compressor? I usually see $1600 quotes include water pump and timing belts/chains since everything's already pulled apart and they're accessible. Quote Selected
Clutch or Compressor? Reply #13 – July 28, 2010, 08:34:32 PM The 3.8's compressor is on the upper passenger side, right? Easy to change. I should add an additional $100 or so to my above numbers as they should also flush the system out and check/replace all sealing points (orings mainly). Still nothing that should take more than 15 minutes to pop the connectors apart, pull old o-rings out, oil up new ones, and slide it back together.I just don't want to see you be taken for more money than the shop deserves. I have no idea what estimates their books, or computers, tell them though as they're usually way over in time of time required to replace a part (again, except when some old rusted stud snaps off that they have no control over other than that they shouldn't use an impact driver on such parts). Quote Selected
Clutch or Compressor? Reply #14 – July 28, 2010, 08:40:15 PM No, seek, that quote is just for what I listed. They base the estimate on what the computer tells them it'll be. But, they have a good history with me and only charging what labor is actually done (as opposed to some shops I know of that bill what the computer tells them). I'm one of the odd folks that actually prefer a high estimate, so I can budget that and get lucky enough to spend less, rather than be surprised by additional costs.One example is when my wife had the accessory belt changed on her car. The computer showed something like 98$ for labor and 30$ (or something like that) for the belt. Well, the mechanic told the girl at the front desk, "it only took ten minutes for me to change that, don't charge her 98$." So, it was corrected to 10$ labor.They've saved me money with other repairs on other vehicles I've had, too. Quote Selected
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