1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #510 – September 06, 2011, 08:45:34 AM 2 rounds of filler on the roof and one on the trunk lid. Starting to get her smooth a little at a time. I'll be working on the driver's door dent next. That's about the worst on the car, and it's under the trim strip (luckily).For Shredder since you asked, I will use any good quality filler underneath (I'm using Bondo on this), but am adamant about using Evercoat Ultra-fill Polyester filler as a last skim coat. It sands so nice with a 180 block without clogging, and doesn't pop back through in later years. One other important point is to let the solvents in your primers flash out for a couple of days before topcoating. Overnight at least if you are in a hurry. I've also found that air tools are only good for pre-filler prep and rough shaping. If you don't want to see it later you have to use a block and hand sand. Then it's up to training your hands and eyes to see the high and low spots come up as you are sanding. Sand with LIGHT pressure. You have to let the paper do the cutting. If you press, the metal flexes and you see the repair.Likewise, if you aren't stripping all the paint off, when DA sanding you want to keep the tool flat to the work. If you angle it and cut with the edge you will see the line later. (You can actually make your job worse with a DA than if you don't use one if you don't follow that advice.) Also, don't put a rag over the opening in the solvent can and 'slosh' it so the solvent touching the rag can be swept back into the container. Doing that contaminates the solvent with whatever was on the rag. Instead, pour the solvent out over the rag held under the spout. If you get any silicones in the solvent it can end up under your paint and make you sad.Every body man has their own ways, and these are just a couple 'rules' I follow. I'm sure the pros can add what methods they prefer or correct me if they think I'm wrong. Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #511 – September 06, 2011, 11:43:34 AM flylear, Thanks for the details on the filler you are using and the techniques. Keep up the great work!I'm a complete beginner on body work. But I have had 3 cars repainted, so I know how much work goes into it. When you speak of DA sanding, is that with the orbital sander? I have seen sanding done with a variety of tools, but it seems most people like the durabond sanding blocks with adjustable flexabilities. And always sand at 45 degree angles? Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #512 – September 06, 2011, 09:34:33 PM Da is a Dual action Orbital sander Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #513 – September 07, 2011, 05:11:50 AM Quote from: The Shredder;366870flylear, Thanks for the details on the filler you are using and the techniques. Keep up the great work!I'm a complete beginner on body work. But I have had 3 cars repainted, so I know how much work goes into it. When you speak of DA sanding, is that with the orbital sander? I have seen sanding done with a variety of tools, but it seems most people like the durabond sanding blocks with adjustable flexabilities. And always sand at 45 degree angles?I like those Dura-blocks as well. I sure wish my paint guy was doing this instead of me. I really didn't want to do another paint job. But, I'm ready to start on it again today. Maybe I should keep track of my hours. Then again.......Maybe not. Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #514 – September 07, 2011, 09:13:09 AM Dura-blocks are real nice.. wish I had them in the 80s...I like using Slick-Sand on the panels myself...takes the place of doing a lot of skimming....I had to shoot my entire car with it, to get all the panels perfectly flat Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #515 – September 07, 2011, 09:17:20 AM I'm going to start buying my body work supplies soon. It's almost time to start getting the Sport ready for paint. I have the sanding blocks at the top of my list. Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #516 – September 07, 2011, 09:22:25 AM great job BTW...I love this part of the project.... Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #517 – September 07, 2011, 11:44:32 AM Quote from: daminc;366956Dura-blocks are real nice.. wish I had them in the 80s...I like using Slick-Sand on the panels myself...takes the place of doing a lot of skimming....I had to shoot my entire car with it, to get all the panels perfectly flat That's a product I haven't tried. Thanks for the tip. I'm not shooting for as nice a job as yours. I am going to be driving this all over, so I won't bother getting it perfect. Just want to fix everything I can find and call it good. Being silver it should be pretty forgiving.I'm using a 2k high build primer right now and it clogs 320 dry paper pretty quickly. I wish I hadn't bought a gallon.Trunk lid has one last tiny ding to fix that showed up while sanding primer. I moved on to sanding the roof now. I got the rear bumper cover and driver's fender sanded down and ready for filler this morning while the primer dried. Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #518 – September 07, 2011, 11:46:12 AM Quote from: vinnietbird;366958I'm going to start buying my body work supplies soon. It's almost time to start getting the Sport ready for paint. I have the sanding blocks at the top of my list.Good choice! Too bad this paint stuff is so pricey. Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #519 – September 07, 2011, 11:50:51 AM Quote from: daminc;366961great job BTW...I love this part of the project.... You certainly have more patience for it than I do! This is the part I look forward to the least. I'm just gonna try to keep my head down and plug at it every day I can until I get it in paint. At least there isn't any rust repair to tackle.I went back and looked at your build as I was planning how to manage this job. It was a big help! Quote Selected
sanding Reply #520 – September 08, 2011, 06:22:01 AM Had to get a paint stripe off the red fender.Blocking the roof after 2 fills and 2k primer Bumper needs 2 spots filled with urethane epoxy Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #521 – September 08, 2011, 12:08:55 PM 1 roll 180 board paper1 roll 320 board paper100 6" 180 disks1 can SEM trim paint1 6" Dura-block1 can SEM guide coat-----------------------------$150.00 Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #522 – September 08, 2011, 12:56:32 PM I guess it is better than paying $3,000-$5,000 for the paint job though!In the picture of your rear bumper cover, are you planning to epoxy the wavy parts about 6"-12" from either end? My rear bumper covers have some waves on top by the license plate area. I'm not sure what to do about those.Are you keeping the red stripe or going monochrome color? Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #523 – September 08, 2011, 01:35:12 PM Quote from: The Shredder;367073I guess it is better than paying $3,000-$5,000 for the paint job though!In the picture of your rear bumper cover, are you planning to epoxy the wavy parts about 6"-12" from either end? My rear bumper covers have some waves on top by the license plate area. I'm not sure what to do about those.Are you keeping the red stripe or going monochrome color? Yeah, I'll have about $750.00 in materials. I'd have paid my guy Frank gladly, though. 'If' he still did over-all jobs that is.I'm not going to address the waves in the back cover. I'll take what I get on that. The urethane epoxy is for a couple of gouges in the cover, one on each corner.Depending on where your issue is, you may be able to stuff something between the cover and the support to make it look better.I'm going mono, baby. All silver with just the black around the windows and black door handles.I'll be painting the side moldings all silver, too. I may black out all the emblems except the front bird to boot. If not, they will need to be re-chromed. I doubt I'll be willing to spend what that'd cost. Quote Selected
1988 TC single Holset turbo 5.0/ 4R70W Reply #524 – September 09, 2011, 07:25:22 AM I spent all day yesterday on the car. The hood is ready for primer, and I'm hoping it'll be pretty straight after blocking. That went well. I fully expected it to take a full day, but it looks really good after a couple of hours invested between it and the passenger side.I need one more application on the roof, then I'm going to call it done. It may not be perfect, but it should be fine.Trunk lid is ready to go after priming one last time, and both rear quarters are in shape. I took an hour and removed the last of the adhesive left from the trim. What a hassle! That has been the worst job of all so far, but it is behind me now. I got the first rough coat of Bondo on the drivers door dent last night. Today I'll start blocking it with 40 grit and re-coating with filler until I get the shape close. Then once I feel it's nearly perfect I'll hit it with a coat of the Ultra-fill and 180 block it for primer. Quote Selected
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