Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums  

Sounds like the tach side of the coil (the side that goes to the ignition module) is grounded all the time.

A no spark condition has to be the Dist, module, coil or no power to the coil/module... I've made plenty of sparks spinning a dist with it and the coil connected up on the workbench... Since you've changed the dist and coil, I'd be rechecking the wiring...

The ECM has nothing to do with making spark, only controls advance... I didn't have a computer when I ran the test on the workbench... Maybe if it had a issue and was confusing the module advance circuitry, but you could disconnect the ECM and prove that...

The computer system was down in that '88 Vert Stang I had, that had been under water, due to a bad ecu relay... Wouldn't run but it made spark...

No Start due to No Spark

Needed Tools/Chemicals:

    * 12-vdc Test Light
    * Carburetor Cleaner Spray Can
    * ½" combination wrench
    * TFI Ignition System Wiring Diagram


To start trying to identify if it's a fuel or a spark problem, place ign key in on, check for the fuel pump priming sound, if OK or NOK, remove the breather hose from the throttle body and spray some carburetor cleaner through the TB port.

Attempt to start engine, if engine starts for a couple of seconds and dies, the problem is a No Fuel condition....if the engine doesn't start at all, the problem is a No Spark condition...

NO Spark

  Loosen distributor holding bolt with ½" wrench, remove plug from coil, turn ign on, while holding the coild plug ~ ?" away from the coil tower, rotate distributor left-right-left....spark doesn't arc from coil to plug = next step...spark arcs from coil to plug = check condition of distributor rotor and cap, and replace.

  Place ignition key in on, with the 12-vdc test light connected to a good ground, probe the (+) terminal at the coil (Red/Lt Green wire)...test light off = usually an ignition switch or 20 GA fuse link problem....test light on = next step.

  Place ignition key in on, with the 12-vdc test light connected to a good ground, probe the (-) terminal at the coil (Tan/Yellow wire)...test light off  = replace coil, test light on = next step.

  Place ignition key in on, with the 12-vdc test light connected to a good ground, probe the (-) terminal at the coil (Tan/Yellow wire), rotate distributor left-right-left and check test light...test light blinks  = replace coil....test light on = next step.

  Ign On, backprobe or disconnect TFI and check with test light, pin #4 (ICM Power)...test light on = next step, test light off = open problem in wiring that needs tracing and repair.

  Up till now the problem is either a TFI module, or a stator sensor failure. Your options are to either replace the module and check if it starts, or follow this testing procedure ------> http://351winsor.com/joel/Ignition_Systems/tfi2.html    to rule out/id the module as the culprit, and replace the stator sensor, TFI module, or both....I usually recommend the latter one for these cases anyway.....

Another reason for an EFI No Start, is that the ECM is not turning on when the key is cycled to the IGN ON position. First you have to ID this is the case. In order to confirm if the ECM is not activating, notice if the fuel pump primes when the key is rotated to IGN ON, if it does prime.....the ECM is turning on.....if it doesn't.....measure for 5 vdc VREF voltage at any of the 3-wire sensors (EVP, TPS or MAP/BP), we will use the TPS for this explanation.

Check for 5 vdc, IGN ON between the RED/ORANGE wire and a good ground like battery (-)......if 5 vdc is present, THE ECM is turning on.....not present.....next!

Check the EEC ground near the battery, it should be attached to the battery (-) or the frame.

Check the EEC relay located on top of the ECM in the passenger kickpanel, make sure it has 12-vdc "always hot" at one of the relay terminals....if not, you need to trace the "always-hot" wire to the correspondent fuselink located in the starter solenoid.

Make sure the IGN ON relay terminal switches to 12-vdc when you turn the ignition key....if not, you either have a wiring open, a bad ignition switch assy., or an open fuselink.

Make sure pin #1 at the ECM connector has 12-vdc "always hot", and that pins 37 and 57 have 12-vdc when the key is switched to IGN ON otherwise, you have an open fuselink, or an open wire between the EEC relay and the ECM connector.

Also check pins 20, 40 and 60 at the ECM connector to ground (resistance check).....if you have >5Ω resistance to a good ground reference point, the ground wires have an open somewhere.

If all the above checks OK.....the ECM is fubar.

no computer with in 10ft, still made spark...

Made spark?  Or started?

Uoooo don't sound good... Reread my 2nd post, we may find the ECU will kill spark yet... The SPROUT signal comes from the ECU, possibly there is a bad signal/voltage being sent from it... I know a shorted SPROUT signal won't keep one from running, and neither will a open SPROUT... Possibly you are correct about the T-storm causing the issue...

When I tested the dist & coil on the workbench the SPROUT was not connected...