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Topic: No start, fuel? *SHE STARTS AND RUNS* (Read 3506 times) previous topic - next topic

No start, fuel? *SHE STARTS AND RUNS*

Reply #15
Quote from: 88XR7;231199
They are all getting a signal. I've got them out and they will be soaking in seafoam later this day.
I think im gonna make a homemade sonic cleaner and set them in a coffee can and set that ontop of my dryer, gotta do laundry anyway :hick:


thats totally fricking nuts crazy awsome!!  I swear that the most creative thing ive heard in a long time.

the washer might do better on spin

No start, fuel? *SHE STARTS AND RUNS*

Reply #16
Quote from: 88XR7;231082
Update:

Tank is dropped, 6 gallons of fresh Shell 93 Octane has been dropped in :hick: lol
...but, still nothing...
I ended up buying a noid light set on sale today from the tool truck so I will actually check all of the injector plugs instead of 2 today.
If they all are getting a signal, I am pulling the injectors and soaking them in Seafoam...

Wish me luck...


why did you drop the tank to add fuel or,, take fuel out and put in good stuff?

All you had to do is go to the eec self test connector,
jumper the tan / light green wire to ground,
turn your key forward
the fuel pump will then run constant (granted you already have the feed line unhooked).

this is the way i usually c00ch a gallon or two of gas to cut grass.

No start, fuel? *SHE STARTS AND RUNS*

Reply #17
Quote from: jcassity;231276
thats totally fricking nuts crazy awsome!!  I swear that the most creative thing ive heard in a long time.

the washer might do better on spin


Wait, are you being serious or no?

I didn't know you could jump the eec connector and have it run constantly...but, if I did that sears would have an even bigger spot on brown, old gas all over there parking lot:hick:

I dropped it to empty it and fill it with good gas...

No start, fuel? *SHE STARTS AND RUNS*

Reply #18
Quote from: jcassity;231276
thats totally fricking nuts crazy awsome!!  I swear that the most creative thing ive heard in a long time.

the washer might do better on spin


Wait, are you being serious or no?

I didn't know you could jump the eec connector and have it run constantly...but, if I did that sears would have an even bigger spot on brown, old gas all over there parking lot:hick:

I dropped it to empty it and fill it with good gas...

No start, fuel? *SHE STARTS AND RUNS*

Reply #19
Well, I got the new injectors in and i've gotta crank her over a bit but.............................she runs on her own gas! lol
She won't idle howver, and I know the timing was way out, but, she's running and it's a step in the right direction.

No start, fuel? *SHE STARTS AND RUNS*

Reply #20
yep,, dead nuts serious.
Pump runs continuous when the tan / light green wire is tied to ground and the key is turned on.  When the key is turned off ,, the pump will run for about 5-10 sec then cut off.

The tan light green wire is the ground supplied to the fuel pump relay.  This wires ground is supplied by the computer.  the wire is branched off and up to your eec self test connector as well.  You will find this exact same color wire at the base of your fuel pump relay in the pass side trunk area near the hinge.  The other small wire is the relay coil power.  When the tan light green gets a ground from the computer, it will energize the coil and suck the large contacts together which have the larger wires (power in/ power our).  The large yellow wire is coming from your starter relay (power in) and the other large wire sends power out to the fuel pump inertia switch then to one side of your fuel pump.

Some good advice was given earlier about the hose in the tank. ITs about 3'' long and bent at a 90 so as to finish the path of fuel flow from the pump and up to the metal output line fitting via a couple of clamps.  It would not be the first time ive heard of this line being cracked at that bend.  You should've replaced it when you were in there.  BTW, just fyi,, the super charge 3.8 pump is a really good swap as far as LPH go.  Its not too agressive but is a great improvement over what you had stock.  Its availability is vast as well and fits snuggly in your existing shock boot. The sock however does not fit.

No start, fuel? *SHE STARTS AND RUNS*

Reply #21
Ahh, good info...

Next step is to try and get the car to idle on its own so I can time it. I'm pretty excited and I can't wait to drive her once more. I've got to put the passenger side header on, p/s pump and a/c compressor on, the belt, and find an electric fan that I can afford (going to scour ebay now)

No start, fuel? *SHE STARTS AND RUNS*

Reply #22
Quote from: 88XR7;231512
Ahh, good info...

Next step is to try and get the car to idle on its own so I can time it. I'm pretty excited and I can't wait to drive her once more. I've got to put the passenger side header on, p/s pump and a/c compressor on, the belt, and find an electric fan that I can afford (going to scour ebay now)


you got pretty decent options out there on fans, and unusual options you would have never figured on to!  look at some of the cram and stuff engine bays with dual fans.  Ive noticed consider amounts of current draw reductions for the same rpms.  Makes for a good thinking pattern on a budget especially since most any older electric fan will command a 3g swap today.

as for the car running ect,, get your timing set right, make sure there is less than 1 volt on the green TPS wire, make sure you have 30+ psi of fuel presure with a fuel presure tester taped to your windshield (lowest reading during AOD SHIFTS), (40+ at idle).  Having 40psi at idle does not mean squat, you may have constant good presure at idle but under a load, Ive seen the psi drop to 20.  Make sure you have perfect vac lines everywhere .  On the 5.0, you can short belt your engine and leave the smog sitting there doing nothing.  On the 3.8's , you have to remove the pully and the super thin plastic finned fan by popping it off, then you can short belt the 3.8 (87 and down that is for the 3.8)

No start, fuel? *SHE STARTS AND RUNS*

Reply #23
Quote from: jcassity;231516
you got pretty decent options out there on fans, and unusual options you would have never figured on to!  look at some of the cram and stuff engine bays with dual fans.  Ive noticed consider amounts of current draw reductions for the same rpms.  Makes for a good thinking pattern on a budget especially since most any older electric fan will command a 3g swap today.

as for the car running ect,, get your timing set right, make sure there is less than 1 volt on the green TPS wire, make sure you have 30+ psi of fuel presure with a fuel presure tester taped to your windshield, make sure you have perfect vac lines everywhere , delete the smog pump and short belt the thing.


less then 1 volt throttle closed right?
Vac lines are fine, did that already...
She has already been short-belted and the smog pump is gone, first thing  did when I got the car. I gotta find a screw on fuel pressure gauge...

My brother bought two of these fans http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10-inch-12v-Electric-Cooling-Fan-SBC-350-BBC-SBF-302_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q32Q7c39Q3a1Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14Q2el1318QQhashZitem380052518340QQitemZ380052518340 and they made it about 4 years for him...could be a possibility...

No start, fuel? *SHE STARTS AND RUNS*

Reply #24
"This is a reversible fan that can be used as a pusher or a puller."
Duhh!!!!  thats normal with dc motors,,lol.

Now compare those ampacities to that of the MarkVII as well as the not so mentioned but ever so important inrush current.  A clamp on meter would read prob what they are selling by , but no inrush is posted. 


The tps- Yes, with the engine off and key forward only.  If you cant get it below a volt, you use a round file to oblong out the mounting holes so you can reinstall it and rotate the TPS CCW and get that perfect setting.  I dont know what happend years ago but you use to be able to get a tps new with oblong holes.

No start, fuel? *SHE STARTS AND RUNS*

Reply #25
So, I presume the optimal reading would be 0.00v?
Now, if the engine coolant temperature sensor isn't hooked up, would it cause the car not to idle?

I do believe it was you that sad it wouldn't run, if it isn't hooked up, awhile back when I had put the E7's on...

Why did Ford make the canister purge solenoid and ects the same style plug...?

No start, fuel? *SHE STARTS AND RUNS*

Reply #26
My 88 TC likes it TPS to read 0.95v. I don't know for sure for yours but I would bet it would be good at the same reading.

No start, fuel? *SHE STARTS AND RUNS*

Reply #27
Quote from: 88XR7;231520
So, I presume the optimal reading would be 0.00v?


no
you need less than a volt,, not zero volts.

.6v -.9v

as for connector types and such, you can find many duplicates in most any automotive application.  you just have to define each connection by the wire colors and the respective wiring schematic.

As for the ECT/ACT
My old 3.8 engine would not start with either unhooked.  I do not know exactly why but i am sure it has something to do with the electronic hand shaking in the eec firmware.

No start, fuel? *SHE STARTS AND RUNS*

Reply #28
Quote from: jcassity;231631
no
you need less than a volt,, not zero volts.

.6v -.9v

I chuckled when I read this, lol...
Quote from: jcassity

as for connector types and such, you can find many duplicates in most any automotive application.  you just have to define each connection by the wire colors and the respective wiring schematic.

As for the ECT/ACT
My old 3.8 engine would not start with either unhooked.  I do not know exactly why but i am sure it has something to do with the electronic hand shaking in the eec firmware.

Would it just turn over and not run?

Honestly, Scott is it? I wish you were nearby for all the help you have been to me...I would like to shake your hand...

No start, fuel? *SHE STARTS AND RUNS*

Reply #29
It would crank but no start.  I played around with this a couple of times later on and confirmed , without the ect / act connected the engine would not work in the hull effect / tfi signals to make spark. 

I assume also that the injector pulse was absent as well.

the act / ect both have set reistance values,, (50kohms ) iirc and since the computer cant see that, it would not start.  I have the exact sensor info in my diy, i think they both are 50k.