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Topic: Can a 3g be damaging overkill? (Read 18325 times) previous topic - next topic

Can a 3g be damaging overkill?

Reply #90 –
Hahaha, yeah!  Gotta cover all the bases... fire protection as well!  Anyway, you must have missed something!!  I fired it up right away...  here are the specs again:

battery: 12.27v
battery, car running: 14.7v
battery again, car off: 12.7x?
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Can a 3g be damaging overkill?

Reply #91 –
[SIZE="5"]AWSOME!!![/SIZE][COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]
so whats next up for doing a final setup? 
I would remove the yellow wire 5A fuse and retest.  If you dont need it, now would be the time to find out.

what did you end up doing on the temp breaker / fuse setup for testing?

hope it all works out., great job btw.

Can a 3g be damaging overkill?

Reply #92 –
Well, I'm gonna test the 3g on a 50 mile drive to work tomorrow...  this weekend I'll probably pull the 5 amp fuse and retest...  Other than that, I think it's done...  I'll get final instructions and then probably start posting about my suspension fun LAST weekend!  :D

BTW:  I just realized I did the test with a 30 amp fuse in the yellow wire (it came in the fuse holder - since switched to 5 amp, yet to test) and I still have this fuse in the block (it's a 60 amp rockford mega fuse that I "dremeled" down to fit in the block:
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Can a 3g be damaging overkill?

Reply #93 –
if it all works out, post back with results.  id suspect you'll step up that 60A to a larger fuse later on. 
so....


I suppose now its time to add the 88tc process to the sticky, i wont until you post back knowing its passed the litmus test.

Can a 3g be damaging overkill?

Reply #94 –
Yeah, I bought a 100 amp while I was out as well (all they had)...  I'll probably track down a 125 someday...  As for the 88 sticky addition, I'll be sure to post updates and help you put it together (assuming all is cool).

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention!  The 3g looks BAD ASS!!  But I need to clock the back cover to get the connections to point down and paint it black...  :D
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Can a 3g be damaging overkill?

Reply #95 –
Ok, here's the second "in garage" test..  Lights/foglamps, full blast 'vent' and radio on, idling at 750 rpm (DVM shows average: +/- .1v):
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Can a 3g be damaging overkill?

Reply #96 –
Quote from: booksix;178997
Ok, here's the second "in garage" test..  Lights/foglamps, full blast 'vent' and radio on, idling at 750 rpm (DVM shows average: +/- .1v):


not bad,,i would have expected the voltage to be more near the 14v than that even with the load you have. 
Nonetheless, looks like a winner so far.

just fyi, making sure the battery cells are topped of can reduce the strain on the alt and can gain you .5 to 1vdc.

now you need to see what the output of the alt is,, then read across the battery and you will see the difference in voltage drop across your wiring.

Can a 3g be damaging overkill?

Reply #97 –
Congrats on the successful installation! May you enjoy the non-dimming headlights for years to come!
<---One must always remember to Remain cool, calm and collected when dealing with your fellow man, especially on the Internet....
-DMC24guy
[/SIZE]

Can a 3g be damaging overkill?

Reply #98 –
Yeah, I expected more, too.  I get something like 14.7 at high idle though.  As far as the battery; never adjusted water level before...  but it's pretty new...  idk...

As for the install, thanks DMC.  They actually didn't dim, but my blinkers got pretty slow!!  Hopefully that'll be gone.  I'll give updates on noticed improvements tomorrow!  thanks again for all the input everyone!
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Can a 3g be damaging overkill?

Reply #99 –
Quote from: booksix;179012
Yeah, I expected more, too.  I get something like 14.7 at high idle though.  As far as the battery; never adjusted water level before...  but it's pretty new...  idk...

As for the install, thanks DMC.  They actually didn't dim, but my blinkers got pretty slow!!  Hopefully that'll be gone.  I'll give updates on noticed improvements tomorrow!  thanks again for all the input everyone!


hummmmmmm:screwy:
somethings up.  If that battery was involved in or mairried up with the previous alternator that failed,,, and the previous alternator boiled off some electrolyte / slightly dammaged the cells, that would account for the issue.  A bad alternator usually means the ac to dc regulation part is going bad letting ac harmonics pass out to the bat.  Batteries dont like ac:D

can you get your hands on a known good batt thats not been in the line of fire of the electron war?

nobody wants a full volt or more difference just by rpm increase.  All this would tell me is that i should keep my eyes pealed and recheck in the near future.  The problem is that the bat may have taken a hit.  If you do discover the bat swap with a known good changes things, your better off getting a new one cause eventually that battery will reach out to the 3g and claw away at the regulator ever demanding more and more current for charge.

I know it sounds like we are complaining about crumbs but actually this is the mood point where you get to fine tune.  Most would say your fine,, but if you up the rpm and it jumps up a full volt or more, thats just telling me the alt is loaded on something at idle.  I dono, maybe its fine, but if your saying the blinker isnt really acting right, its a sign.

I hate to say it but people generally run the circle jerk of new alternator/ new battery,,,then a year or so later,,,,,repeat process.
one of the two is always bad and getting one of the two new will feel the effect of the old.  The battery is going to "demand" the current if it has some damage.  That demand will go up as it continues to fail.(if it is failing).  Its possible you might take the bat and get it tested and it will quote unquote "pass".  Beware of perception,, perception is reality.

I would also check the cell fluid level.  Just add distilled water till its just up to the bottom of the hole on each cell.  Bottled water should be good nuff for what little you likely have to add.  You'll be surprised how much it will take even if its just a 1/4'' low.  Thats a lot of volume inside each cell which equals increased chemical reaction which equals increased condutivity which equals higher voltage potential which equals more stored amperage which means less work for the alternator which means more stable voltage output at a wider range rpm.

Can a 3g be damaging overkill?

Reply #100 –
Looks like a good install...

BTW do you have a underdrive crank pulley??? My 3G will still drop voltage at 750rpm or less with the U/Ds... Course I keep idle up to about 950 in gear, so it ain't a problem...

Can a 3g be damaging overkill?

Reply #101 –
Well, honestly, I'll have to recheck.  that 14.7 was on my very first test...  I just said "14.7 at high idle" because I didn't let it run long enough to drop...  the second time around I fired it and let it run...  it pretty much seemed to sit around the number in that pic. 

The battery IS the one that died in the failure...  recharged and reinstalled.  Maybe I'll swap the battery from my GF's mountaineer tomorrow (same battery size) and see what I get.  I think the differences were probably just a fluke...  we'll see.

For now I have to go 'prep' my 100 amp fuse to fit the block and pack some tools so I can be ready for the trip to work (bigger fuse in case the 60 blows and tools to remove the neg battery terminal while I'm inside working - just in case something shorts and wants to ground out!)
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Can a 3g be damaging overkill?

Reply #102 –
Oh, hey TurboCoupe50....  just saw your question...  Yes, I do have an underdrive crank pulley...
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Can a 3g be damaging overkill?

Reply #103 –
Ok, first road test (grocery store)!!  And WOW!  I'm so pumped!  My blinkers blink like a real car, my windows roll up and down without looking like they might not make it....  :D woohoo!!

But the weird thing is...  I pulled back into the driveway, turned the key off and the engine kept running for .5 secs (max, maybe less- just enough to notice it).  Never had that happen on this car (either engine size).  What would cause that?  Didn't happen after my two in garage tests but did after a drive...  I'll see if it does it again when I get to work....
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Can a 3g be damaging overkill?

Reply #104 –
Brett
does this look correct?