Step 1: Suspension.

Topic: Step 1: Suspension. (Read 14644 times) previous topic - next topic

Step 1: Suspension.

February 26, 2007, 08:22:30 PM

Perhaps I was a bit too eager when I set to tearing the suspension off of the T-bird. At this point I have the rear end dropped out and the front suspension torn down to only the control arms. I had originally planned to use CHE control arms for the rear, but I think for the time being I'll stick the new 8.8 back up into the car with the stock arms as I've spent about $800 on other non-suspension things for the car. Is there any source for new rear control arm bolts & nuts? I really don't trust these bolts to be used for the third time, plus I thought they were the stretch-type bolts that are only supposed to be torqued down once.

Anyway, regarding the front suspension & brakes, here we go. I know ThunderChicken recently re-did the front suspension on his car. Carmen, any chance you remember the size of those big bolts that hold the front CA's in? I'm going to do new bushings up front & this bolt looks like it might be a size I don't have.

-Moving outward & upward I'll have to get new balljoints. Any old kind work, or should I spend extra cash on these? I think Moog and Spicer brands cost about $50 - $60 whereas the budget-brand Spicer piece is about $9.

-Next up I'm doing 11" front brakes. I got these from Andrew (4thqtr) complete with spindles and I need to find out if they're from a TC or a Mustang. I'm thinking Mustang because they have the bolt-thru (banjo?) type brake hoses which I assume will work with my stock steel hardlines on the car.

-Considering the car's 22 years old, it probably needs new struts, plus the old 'boucne' test on the front fender pretty much proves it. Any reccomendations on a brand/model for these? Any source for new bolts? I think I might've lost mine. Also, these should bolt up to the Mustang spindles no problem? Also gotta find new strut mounts because these old ones are also worn.

-Tie rod ends, pretty much the same story as the ball joints. One real cheap brand & a few more expensive ones. Probably safer with something like Motorcraft or Moog, correct?

I think that pretty much summarizes all my concerns and all the parts I'm going to be replacing aside from easy stuff like swaybar bushings, end links, etc. Still have yet to find out which springs I'm going to use, but they surely won't be the stock ones, the front end sits way too high. Any and all comments are appreciated, this is my first in-depth adventure into the front suspension.

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #1 – February 26, 2007, 08:41:58 PM

suspension= safety, don't skimp and buy the cheap stuff thats prob gonna wear out sooner anyway

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #2 – February 26, 2007, 08:48:58 PM

with suspension I would run MOOG anywhere's possible. they are a good brand, and carry a lifetime replacement warranty on most parts.

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #3 – February 26, 2007, 08:53:28 PM

I am currently doing the same thing and would like some answers to the same questions?

I got all poly bushings from energy suspension for my soft goods, And I got Moog for the Ball joints and Napa for the Rack and the Tie rod ends.

But I need those large bolts tha hold the LCA's on ???

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #4 – February 26, 2007, 09:02:41 PM

Quote from: chri85tc;131535

But I need those large bolts tha hold the LCA's on ???

I'm guessing it's probably something we can get at a hardware store, just a matter of knowing the sizes, thread pitch, grade, etc.

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #5 – February 26, 2007, 09:23:22 PM

They are M16-2.0 bolts. (Both the strut and control arm bolts)

NOT something you're going to find at the hardware store. Hit up McMaster-Carr online and source some 10.9 grade bolts of the proper length. While you're at it, get some 5/8" grade 8 washers(they classify them as High-Strength Hardened steel) and some M16 lock-nuts (again grade 10.9).

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #6 – February 26, 2007, 09:34:27 PM

Well coming from someone who's about to do it twice, I'd say wait until you got the parts you actually want before reassembly.

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #7 – February 26, 2007, 09:39:59 PM

Perhaps the CHE's will have to be my birthday gift at the end of May. I still wanna get the car back down onto the ground because I have all kinds of engine stuff being shipped soon and I refuse to tear into the engine while the suspension is still so torn apart.

Wow, looks like for new rear CA's, front CA bushings, all 4 spring isolators, endlinks and swaybar bushings it only comes out to $292 with the discount. I guess I will wait on 'em. Doesn't stop me from getting the front together with the small pieces I need up there, though.

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #8 – February 26, 2007, 09:40:32 PM

ive used grade 8 hardware on my rear control arms before. you can use either M12 or 7/16". the pitch wouldnt matter, as you should get the corresponding nuts and washers. as for the struts, im not sure if a TC has the same spindles as a V8 mustang. if that is the case, you will need TC or V8 mustang struts, as the mounting "ears" on the struts are closer than a 4cyl mustang/lx t-bird spindle.

oh, and no, the stock suspension bolts are NOT TTY bolts.

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #9 – February 26, 2007, 10:46:11 PM

Brian, you could also try Youngstown Bolt & Supply...you have to know what you want but they've probably got them in stock. They're about 15 minutes north of YSU.

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #10 – February 26, 2007, 10:53:36 PM

You only need TC or V8 struts if using original, stock pieces. Aftermarket struts are all the wide style and include spacers (shims) to make 'em fit the narrower 11" spindles. I agree on getting the good ball joints - with cheapies you get what you pay for.

Brian, have you actually tried to remove the control arm bolts yet? If not, you may be in for a surprise. First off, the steering rack WILL be in the way. You can't pull the forward bolts out without destroying the boots on the rack. If you unbolt the rack you might be able to slide it forward enough for clearance, but I'd recommend pulling it completely off and installing urethane bushings anyway. Also, some or all of the bolts might be very difficult to remove as they may be rusted to the sleeve inside the LCA bushing. I was lucky in that only one of my four was stuck, and it did eventually come free (after pleading and beating on it for two solid hours).

Come to think of it I just looked back and noticed you said you've had 'em out before, so you should be OK that way.

Like 5ohbird says, the bolts are not TTY. If they are on good shape they should be reusable.

I also agree with Antonio - make sure you've got all the parts before starting. It's no fun to do the same job several times.

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #11 – February 27, 2007, 12:40:32 AM

I lived on the coast for over 25 years. Last year I bought a 96 Mustang GT rearend with the control arms still attached. When I pulled the control arms off the bolts had corrioded to about 1/3 thier orginial size. Scary. So when I got ready to replace my rear control arms on the TC I bought all 8 nuts and bolts from Ford. $108, pretty steep, but there are some places you cant cut corners. When I pulled them off the car, the bolts still looked new. Thats sunny Arizona for you. Im going to try and return the new ones, $108 is $108.

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #12 – February 27, 2007, 01:50:06 PM

Carmen, I've had the rear CA bolts on and off a couple times. I haven't touched the front control arms yet. So you're saying I'd might as well do the steering rack, too? I'd like to have the sport-ratio steering anyway.

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #13 – February 27, 2007, 05:12:20 PM

If you're planning on that upgrade, then yes, do it now. I actually wasn't planning on the upgrade myself, since the rack in the car was fairly new, but I discovered that the aluminum housing had been cracked and somebody fiberglassed over it.

Step 1: Suspension.

Reply #14 – February 28, 2007, 09:14:43 PM

So, now I'm sort of shopping for a steering rack. Rock Auto shows various brands, most show a w/ and w/o performance suspension. I assume the performance suspension is the quick ratio rack, correct? There's only about a $30 difference between brands, so I'll probably take the more expensive of the two.

It's finding the correct pump that's leaving me kind of high & dry. It doesn't seem to show two different pumps and I've always heard that you can't use the regular pump with the 'quick' rack. Any truth to this? Or should I just go into a local parts store and ask for all this stuff for an '86 TC or somethin?

Oh, also. Do the racks usually come with inner tie-rod ends and boots?

, just thought of one other thing. If these bolts on the front CA's prove to be rusted inside of the sleeves can I use a 'hot wrench' and cut the heads off of 'em? Same goes for the body-side of the rear CA's.