Changed EGR...Now I wait and See....READ LAST POST BIRDMAN!

Topic: Changed EGR...Now I wait and See....READ LAST POST BIRDMAN! (Read 18441 times) previous topic - next topic

Changed EGR...Now I wait and See....READ LAST POST BIRDMAN!

Reply #45 – January 14, 2007, 01:24:35 AM

Can and will Autozone test the Map Sensor? Also, this "clogging" of the Throttle Body....is it really as simple as sticking a pencil through some hole on passenger side of the upper intake?

Changed EGR...Now I wait and See....READ LAST POST BIRDMAN!

Reply #46 – January 14, 2007, 09:50:43 AM

i meant on the thottle plate. so you take off your air hose from the filter box to the throttle body and look at the gold-colored throttle plate. on the left half of it youll see a little 1/8 inch hole in the plate. theyre suggesting that it might be clogged, and a tiny bit of air does go through it. it wouldnt hurt to look at it, and you can poke a pencil point through it if you dont have any small screwdrivers (i hav no idea what kind of toolset you have available to you)

its unlikely that theres something blocking the hole but why not check it.

found this searching the corral forum--

"Hunting surging idle is usually caused by one of two things (or both). Too much timing and lean conditions. Try addressing them individually. First remove 6 to 8 degrees from your base timing and see if it helps. Second, try bumping your fuel pressure up a fair amount (5 to 10 psi) and see if it helps. If so, then you've got some direction, but ultimately to really fix either one of these and still preserve performance & driveability you're going to need a custom tune with your mods."

well we cant adjust our fuel pressure right? the regulator does that (or can we someone please correct me)

but ive read some other threads there and they say the same thing, "use the search feature" "its been discussed--ussually too much timing or too lean...."

Changed EGR...Now I wait and See....READ LAST POST BIRDMAN!

Reply #47 – January 14, 2007, 11:39:16 AM

i feel like this thread is growing more and more into a shotgun troubleshooting syle which i hate. I know you have been trying but also you have to understand that this is the second thread on the same problem and as far as i can see, there have been questions / suggestions that have not been looked at. Hope i dont sound sarcastic, just trying to help.

taking this from the top,,,,,,, these are the parts you have chenged?

Fuel Pump
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pressure Regulator
new valve positioning senor [COLOR="Red"](EVP SENSOR)[/COLOR]
Adjusted TPS
New TFI Module
New Rotor

[COLOR="red"]symtom-[/COLOR]
car starts up and idles fine for about three minutes then it has an unstable idle from 600 to 800 rpm. While in drive and brake applied at a light, it soemtimes feels like it wants to die?????
you still smell gas?

[COLOR="red"]the egr-[/COLOR]
you said you blew into the egr line,, i said to put suction on it. you had the egr checked and it held vac presure (SUCTION). The egr has a rubber diaphram that moves in and out because of the engine vac applied to it. The evp sensor has a metal rod that sticks out and touches the center of the diaphram, the rod on the evp moves when the diaphram moves. The evp is a variable resistor and changes a voltage, simple ast hat .

[COLOR="Red"]who did the fuel pump change?[/COLOR]

[COLOR="red"]Taking it from the top[/COLOR],,pls help us help you and reply to these steps
-check your fuel presure while under a load
-check for """BLUE""" spark at any plug wire
-check you codes again since you replaced the EVP. You can use any 12dc buzzer to transmit codes while you listen and write them. Refering to "about 8" blinks does not cut it,, its either 8 or not 8.
-Check each vac line even if you do have to remove the grommet, put suction on each one.
-check the alternator output for dc volts, then check for any AC (partially fried regulator)
-do the tfi check , if your stator is bad down in the dizzy, you can find it happening there. its a lot easier to swap out the dizzy with a known good one for this check since you have not replaced the stator yet.
-remove the belt after the car has warmed up and spin the smog pump pully. If its hard to turn, then you just found your problem cause its locking up and loading the engine down.
-keep on the lookout for a code refering to a rich or lean injector when pulling codes.
-check cylinder compression on each cylinder
-inspect each spark plug and determine if one or more plugs look like they are firing different than the others.
-at night,start the car, go out to the car with a spray bottle of water. spray water along the engine plug wires, coil , engine wireing ect and check for arching.
-start the car and use a can of carb cleaner along all vac lines , and elsewhere and listen for engine rpm changes. if you hear a change when spraying along the lines,, you just found a break.
-your gonna have to swap in another map,, just for the heck of it although i do agree with jermemy, i dont think thats the problem. In all honesty, i have never ever had one go bad ever.

keep it simple,,, check your spark, fuel and voltage ,, then reply. We do know one thing,, it happens after warmup.

if you or anyone else thinks this sounds like a lot of things to do,, just remember, these are the things you would expect out of a mechanic so realize that when you complain for how much mechanic work costs.

Changed EGR...Now I wait and See....READ LAST POST BIRDMAN!

Reply #48 – January 14, 2007, 12:58:58 PM

yeah, autozone checks map sensors. they put a vaccum gauge on it and then check it via ohms...

Changed EGR...Now I wait and See....READ LAST POST BIRDMAN!

Reply #49 – January 14, 2007, 02:08:00 PM

Hey jcassity,That was one good troubelshoot post.I'm savin it.
Should make that a sticky.

Changed EGR...Now I wait and See....READ LAST POST BIRDMAN!

Reply #50 – January 14, 2007, 05:20:33 PM

No, I don't smell gas anymore. Apparently while throwing parts at this problem, I fixed that problem. The list of changed parts is accurate. The symptoms are as well. It drives good for about 15 minutes, but after that point is usually when the problems come up. It doesn't always die out, but when it does, that's usually when it occurs. And yes, it's never when I'm driving, its when sitting at a stop light with the brakes applied.

Changed EGR...Now I wait and See....READ LAST POST BIRDMAN!

Reply #51 – January 14, 2007, 07:37:31 PM

Ok guys, the I just pulled the following Codes, please interpret:

14, 18 and 34.

Changed EGR...Now I wait and See....READ LAST POST BIRDMAN!

Reply #52 – January 14, 2007, 08:12:20 PM

14 is PIP failure.

34 is insufficient EGR flow.

I dont remember 18.

Changed EGR...Now I wait and See....READ LAST POST BIRDMAN!

Reply #53 – January 14, 2007, 08:14:36 PM

So what does this mean? I need a new Distributor and EGR valve?

Changed EGR...Now I wait and See....READ LAST POST BIRDMAN!

Reply #54 – January 14, 2007, 08:50:59 PM

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=14

18 SPOUT circuit open or spark angle word failure.
or.........
IDM circuit failure or SPOUT circuit grounded.

first one is for KOER Key On Engine Running

second is the Continues Memory, the second sequence (after the long pause) when you do codes with the Key On Engine Off

Changed EGR...Now I wait and See....READ LAST POST BIRDMAN!

Reply #55 – January 14, 2007, 09:07:00 PM

Gee, looks like a possible TFI... or yes, a new distributor if the Hall Effect (PIP) is bad.

You claim the TFI is new. How was it installed? Enough heat sink compound?

It's also possible the TFI connector is bad (had to replace a couple myself). While it's running CAREFULLY reach in and wiggle the connector at the TFI on the dist. Does the car hesitate or stall?

Changed EGR...Now I wait and See....READ LAST POST BIRDMAN!

Reply #56 – January 14, 2007, 09:16:12 PM

Just checked the connector, it appears clean. Wiggled it, and nothing happened.

Guys, it's that time when the ship is about to go under, and I must deliver this message: Thanks for all the help. You've done you're best, but you can do no more.

I've given up the fight men. I wrote the guy I'm trading the car with, and explained everything that's been going on and what I've changed. Hopefully he'll still trade with me, but if not, I know I've done right thing. Looking at it now, I know If I were buying a car (Especially If I planned on selling it), knowing what the problem is and seeing all that I've changed, I would probably still buy the car figuring I could fix the problem myself. I'm not too worried right now. The worst that could happen is he says No deal. If that's the case...oh well.

Again, thanks for the valiant effort to help me, I do appreciate it. Now, I just wait for that reply.

Changed EGR...Now I wait and See....READ LAST POST BIRDMAN!

Reply #57 – January 14, 2007, 10:08:30 PM

either way,, seems to be a classic treatment of a stator going bad in the dizzy. No big deal though.

Changed EGR...Now I wait and See....READ LAST POST BIRDMAN!

Reply #58 – January 15, 2007, 02:16:13 AM

Dude, If I were you I'd run out and see if I could pick up a distributor, maybe borrow one or something, or get a cheap oe replacement. It really sounds like that may be your issue.

Changed EGR...Now I wait and See....READ LAST POST BIRDMAN!

Reply #59 – January 15, 2007, 11:04:51 AM

Well, the guy agreed to take the car for an extra $500, so i'm going to take out a loan on my tax money, and go for it. I think it's fair.