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Topic: Rear End UPDATE (Scroll Down): Last Minute pre-CJ Questions Added (Read 2670 times) previous topic - next topic

Rear End UPDATE (Scroll Down): Last Minute pre-CJ Questions Added

Reply #15
I'd use red since it doesnt really come off much but you should probabally use blue just in case, crank them down with a combination wrench and make sure the mating surfaces are clean, you should be good to go.
1980 birds X 3, 1982 bird, 1984 XR7, 1988 TC

Rear End UPDATE (Scroll Down): Last Minute pre-CJ Questions Added

Reply #16
Quote from: tbirdscott
I'd use red since it doesnt really come off much but you should probabally use blue just in case, crank them down with a combination wrench and make sure the mating surfaces are clean, you should be good to go.

Mating surfaces?  You're talking about where the driveshaft mounts onto the  on the rear end?  Or do you mean the threads?

I suppose I can use some carb cleaner in the area.

Rear End UPDATE (Scroll Down): Last Minute pre-CJ Questions Added

Reply #17
yeah where the two pieces sit against each other, clean bolts are easier to handle aswell.
1980 birds X 3, 1982 bird, 1984 XR7, 1988 TC

Rear End UPDATE (Scroll Down): Last Minute pre-CJ Questions Added

Reply #18
Loctite? Whoops. I didn't notice any when removing mine for u-joint replacements. I loosened them about 1/8 turn, and spun them out with my fingers. When I put them back in, I just put a tight-fitting box-end wrench on each bolt and hit it until my hand hurt. It's been 4 1/2 years now, am I safe?
Death awaits you all with nasty, big, pointy teeth.

1988 5.0 Bird, mostly stock, partly not, now gone to T-Bird heaven.
1990 Volvo 740GL. 114 tire-shredding horsies, baby!

Rear End UPDATE (Scroll Down): Last Minute pre-CJ Questions Added

Reply #19
I ended up having to run the driveshaft bolts in and out a few times, then cleaning the bolt threads with a wire brush.  After that they went in fine.  Loc-tite-ed them and cranked on 'em with a combo wrench.  Didn't use a cheater bar for fear of breaking the bolts or rounding off the heads.  I think my driveshaft should stay on, though.

Redgarding the rear end cover:  I bought a new one from Summit Racing and it came with a gasket and new bolts.  Though a lot of people say you don't have to have a new gasket, I used the one I got with it, just to be safe.  I basically 'buttered' both sides of the gasket and stuck the cover on.  Now, is there any relative amount of tightening you wanna apply to the bolts?  I know I won't be able to find my torque wrench.  So, basically I tightened them in a criss-cross pattern and then re-tightened.  I just hope I haven't over-tigthened, causing the cover to warp or anything.

As of right now, all I have left to do is:

-Fill rear end with lube (Got the good stuff, Royal Purpe 85-140, still have to find one of those pumps)
-Jack the rear up to ride height and tighten the CA bolts
-Bleed the brakes.

After that, my car will be BACK on the road for the first time in over a year!

 

Rear End UPDATE (Scroll Down): Last Minute pre-CJ Questions Added

Reply #20
Forget about the pump to put the fluid in there just get a long piece of tubing to fit over the end of bottle lid and then put the hose into the fill hole and squeeze. Get about 2feet of tube. then lower the rear all the way and hold the bottle above the rear and and there you go.
84 Turbo coupe 2.3T Modded with 88 upper and lower intake, 88 injectors, E6 manifold, T3-4 AR.60 turbo, 31X12X3 FMIC, Homemade MBC , Greddy knock off BPV.
4 eyes see better than 2! 
Da Bird!

FreeBird