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Topic: Steering wheel puller thread specs (Read 2663 times) previous topic - next topic

Steering wheel puller thread specs

Does anyone know the steering wheel puller thread specs for the two bolts that go in the pulling holes?

BTW, I'm using the one-size-fits-all harmonic balancer kit from Advance Auto.  All I need is the right bolts.

I only found this thread:
http://foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=424
"lol.. because not too many people care for that style of car"
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Steering wheel puller thread specs

Reply #1
loosen the nut off till its level with the end of the threads, rest a ball peen hammer on it, push on the back of the wheel with your knees and hit the back of the ball peen hammer with another hammer. Nice and simple and doesnt cost a thing.
1980 birds X 3, 1982 bird, 1984 XR7, 1988 TC

Steering wheel puller thread specs

Reply #2
Quote from: tbirdscott
loosen the nut off till its level with the end of the threads, rest a ball peen hammer on it, push on the back of the wheel with your knees and hit the back of the ball peen hammer with another hammer. Nice and simple and doesnt cost a thing.


Are you talking about that center bolt?

Also, I don't know if this approach would work for me when the steering column in out of the car and on the floor.
"lol.. because not too many people care for that style of car"
[size=-2]Click on paw print \/[/size]


Steering wheel puller thread specs

Reply #3
Should still work, hold it by the steering wheel and let the weight of the coloumn pull down on it, couple whacks with a hammer should pop it off, maybe get someone else to hold the steering wheel while you weild the hammers.
1980 birds X 3, 1982 bird, 1984 XR7, 1988 TC

Steering wheel puller thread specs

Reply #4
Quote from: tbirdscott
loosen the nut off till its level with the end of the threads


Ok, I'll try but I'm not understanding this part :confused:

If that doesn't work, I'm going to get a lot of looks walking into Lowe's with a steering column. :wtf: :screwy:
"lol.. because not too many people care for that style of car"
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Steering wheel puller thread specs

Reply #5
Quote from: Cougars 2 go
Ok, I'll try but I'm not understanding this part :confused:

You know how the threaded part sticks out farther than the nut when its tightened? you want to loosen the nut till it is at the end of the threads and they are level so that when itshiznit with the hammer it wont damage the threads. Its not really necessary since it wont be hit that hard but its a simple and free percaution, I've ruined enough bolts that I usually do this to everything.
1980 birds X 3, 1982 bird, 1984 XR7, 1988 TC

Steering wheel puller thread specs

Reply #6
Quote from: tbirdscott
You know how the threaded part sticks out farther than the nut when its tightened? you want to loosen the nut till it is at the end of the threads and they are level so that when itshiznit with the hammer it wont damage the threads. Its not really necessary since it wont be hit that hard but its a simple and free percaution, I've ruined enough bolts that I usually do this to everything.


Oh, mine isn't a nut, it's a bolt.
"lol.. because not too many people care for that style of car"
[size=-2]Click on paw print \/[/size]


Steering wheel puller thread specs

Reply #7
I just changed out the sterring colum. 84 colum in a 86 cougar. It is fun, and the colors are the same.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com


Steering wheel puller thread specs

Reply #9
Quote
Are you talking about that center bolt?
Actually talking about the nut that holds the wheel on the steering shaft. You're knocking the shaft out of the wheel, rather than pulling the wheel off the shaft. Leave the nut on to (depending on where you're working on it): protect the threads, keep the wheel from smacking you in the face, keep the column from dropping on your foot.
Death awaits you all with nasty, big, pointy teeth.

1988 5.0 Bird, mostly stock, partly not, now gone to T-Bird heaven.
1990 Volvo 740GL. 114 tire-shredding horsies, baby!

Steering wheel puller thread specs

Reply #10
Hmm Eric I think 1/4-20 would be too easy.  I know my autozone puller doesn't have the right bolts.  There is a pair that almost fits, good enough to get the wheel off but they dont' go in but a turn and a half.
One 88

Steering wheel puller thread specs

Reply #11
I have a steering wheel puller that my dad created a loooooooong time ago at the tool and die shop. He had a bunch of odd size bolts in there, but the ones that work for every single Cougar steering wheel I've ever pulled (and there have been quite a few) is the 1/4" one. It is definitely standard, not metric, and I believe it has a normal thread. That's the best I can say.

 

Steering wheel puller thread specs

Reply #12
Quote from: tbirdscott
loosen the nut off till its level with the end of the threads, rest a ball peen hammer on it, push on the back of the wheel with your knees and hit the back of the ball peen hammer with another hammer. Nice and simple and doesnt cost a thing.


Quote from: EricCoolCats
I have a steering wheel puller that my dad created a loooooooong time ago at the tool and die shop. He had a bunch of odd size bolts in there, but the ones that work for every single Cougar steering wheel I've ever pulled (and there have been quite a few) is the 1/4" one. It is definitely standard, not metric, and I believe it has a normal thread. That's the best I can say.


Quote from: MasterBlaster
Actually talking about the nut that holds the wheel on the steering shaft. You're knocking the shaft out of the wheel, rather than pulling the wheel off the shaft. Leave the nut on to (depending on where you're working on it): protect the threads, keep the wheel from smacking you in the face, keep the column from dropping on your foot.



Hey thanks for your help everyone.  I ended up driving my white 87 to Home Depot and walking in and out with a measure tool and some bolts.  It came out to be the 5/16" - 28 fine thread.  I bought the only type they had, strength grade #2 at 3.5" long.
I came home and they fit great in the '86 and '87 and '88.  I would advise no less than 3.5" long though.  I would also advise a higher grade.  The only reason I didn't get a higher grade was because that is all they had.  They did the job though but the lack of strength allowed them to bend a little.
"lol.. because not too many people care for that style of car"
[size=-2]Click on paw print \/[/size]