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Topic: ignition switch problem... I think? (Read 1203 times) previous topic - next topic

ignition switch problem... I think?

A few issues that have arose that I have no idea how to fix...

First the cars key buzzer wont stop buzzing once the car is running. It just keeps buzzing but no issues with cars performance.

Now all gauges do not work. Shows no oil, water temp, or RPM.

Battery keeps going dead.

During start up the  fuel pump doesnt make that normal whining noise as its priming. It now sound like two loud burps like instead of sucking in fuel its spitting it out. Really strange. car runs fine though, even when I rev it up.

Could it be a bad ignition switch? Bad key switch? I just replaced both two months ago with a Autozoo units.

FYI: I did remove that white button under the steering wheel that is the key release. I have never had any issues with the other cars I removed it from. All help appreciated.
Motorsport FMIC, Boport 1.5, Boblee header, gutted upper, profiled lower, phenolic spacer, Accufab fpr, LA3, Boport stage 3 big valve head, 57 trim/stage III Perfromance Techniques custom turbo, stinger 3" DP and custom 3"exhaust, AEM wideband, custom aluminum carnk pulley, Merkur custom A/C setup, PA performance high output 3G alt, dual oil catcj cans, Motorsport Valve cover,full Motorcraft tune up kit, 22psi of LOCO!!

ignition switch problem... I think?

Reply #1 –
Quote from: RDOG;316993
A few issues that have arose that I have no idea how to fix...

First the cars key buzzer wont stop buzzing once the car is running. It just keeps buzzing but no issues with cars performance.

Your car has an "overboost buzzer" and a "warning chime".
I'm guessing you are talking about the chime.
1. Key in the ignition and driver's door open = chime.
2. Lights on and driver's door open = chime.
3. Seat belt unbuckled and ignition swt. on = chime.
Does the dome light stay on, indicating the door is ajar?

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Now all gauges do not work. Shows no oil, water temp, or RPM.

buttstuffog or digital gauges?

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Battery keeps going dead.

Put a meter across the battery with the car running. You should have 14.5 volts if the alternator is charging.
Is the dome light staying on and draining the battery?

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During start up the  fuel pump doesnt make that normal whining noise as its priming. It now sound like two loud burps like instead of sucking in fuel its spitting it out. Really strange. car runs fine though, even when I rev it up.

Don't know what to make of that.

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FYI: I did remove that white button under the steering wheel that is the key release. I have never had any issues with the other cars I removed it from. All help appreciated.

The button is a safety device to keep from locking the steering wheel if you have to turn off the ignition while the car is moving.

ignition switch problem... I think?

Reply #2 –
I got the temp, oil, battery, and fuel to work. Only thing not working is the Tach and Speedo now.

Its the overboost buzzer that wont stop, not the chime
Motorsport FMIC, Boport 1.5, Boblee header, gutted upper, profiled lower, phenolic spacer, Accufab fpr, LA3, Boport stage 3 big valve head, 57 trim/stage III Perfromance Techniques custom turbo, stinger 3" DP and custom 3"exhaust, AEM wideband, custom aluminum carnk pulley, Merkur custom A/C setup, PA performance high output 3G alt, dual oil catcj cans, Motorsport Valve cover,full Motorcraft tune up kit, 22psi of LOCO!!

ignition switch problem... I think?

Reply #3 –
My tach and speedo quit working and it turned out to be that the plug-in on the back of the cluster wasn't fully plugged in.
...and there was light!

ignition switch problem... I think?

Reply #4 –
Quote from: RDOG;317040
Its the overboost buzzer that wont stop, not the chime

Looking at the 87 EVTM, the buzzer should have voltage with the ignition in "run" and only have it's ground when the "Boost Pressure Switch" is closed.
Find the boost pressure switch behind the right shock tower and unplug the connector with W/PK and BK/LG wires.
The ignition switch in the diagram grounds the bulbs for the "lamp test" with the ignition swt in start.

ignition switch problem... I think?

Reply #5 –
Do you have a good picture of the fuse panel?
Motorsport FMIC, Boport 1.5, Boblee header, gutted upper, profiled lower, phenolic spacer, Accufab fpr, LA3, Boport stage 3 big valve head, 57 trim/stage III Perfromance Techniques custom turbo, stinger 3" DP and custom 3"exhaust, AEM wideband, custom aluminum carnk pulley, Merkur custom A/C setup, PA performance high output 3G alt, dual oil catcj cans, Motorsport Valve cover,full Motorcraft tune up kit, 22psi of LOCO!!

ignition switch problem... I think?

Reply #6 –
Ok I got the oil, temp,fuel, and charge meters to work by cleaning the connection in back of speedo cluster. Now the only thing not working is tach and speedo. I disconnected the buzzer by just unplugging the buzzer by removing the headlight switch and prying wiring away from buzzer. Would this cause tach and speedo not to work?
Motorsport FMIC, Boport 1.5, Boblee header, gutted upper, profiled lower, phenolic spacer, Accufab fpr, LA3, Boport stage 3 big valve head, 57 trim/stage III Perfromance Techniques custom turbo, stinger 3" DP and custom 3"exhaust, AEM wideband, custom aluminum carnk pulley, Merkur custom A/C setup, PA performance high output 3G alt, dual oil catcj cans, Motorsport Valve cover,full Motorcraft tune up kit, 22psi of LOCO!!

ignition switch problem... I think?

Reply #7 –
Shouldn't you try to actually find and fix whatever is causing the buzzer to constantly sound?  Otherwise, how will you know if that is related to the tachometer and speedo not functioning?
-Jim
1987 Cougar LS 5.0
 

ignition switch problem... I think?

Reply #8 –
Quote from: RDOG;317195
Do you have a good picture of the fuse panel?