Let the road take you....

Topic: Let the road take you.... (Read 2845 times) previous topic - next topic

Let the road take you....

Reply #15 – February 28, 2009, 12:13:58 AM

i would say check your tie rods then get an alignment if tie rods or good.

Let the road take you....

Reply #16 – March 09, 2009, 07:49:47 PM

Quote from: jcassity;258884

what do you mean?

Joke, if it it was them I would say no, win the bet, have new ones. LOL.

Well I am going to do the ball joints, inner and outer tie rods and "new" rack.

I want to go manual rack but on such short notice and short funds it might not happen.

I did figure out how to explain the sound. Its sounds similar to breaking an overtightened lug nut free.

Let the road take you....

Reply #17 – March 10, 2009, 01:44:01 AM

when your jumping up and down on the lug wrench and break wither the lug wrench, or the stud?

My experience has been either bad bushings or a bad strut with those types of sounds.

Let the road take you....

Reply #18 – March 10, 2009, 10:50:01 AM

my girlfriends ls is doing that too... she has brand new tires, two new ball joints and an alignment, all done about a week ago.....i was thinking it had somthing to do with the steering rod... you know the one that goes from your firewall to the ps sgearbox...

Let the road take you....

Reply #19 – March 10, 2009, 12:17:39 PM

Quote from: massCougarxr7;260562

my girlfriends ls is doing that too... she has brand new tires, two new ball joints and an alignment, all done about a week ago.....i was thinking it had somthing to do with the steering rod... you know the one that goes from your firewall to the ps sgearbox...

Sounds like you are talking about the rag joint

Let the road take you....

Reply #20 – March 10, 2009, 05:51:57 PM

that would be it...... i havent checked it out yet... but also when i turn it gets (caught) or sticks for a second..

Let the road take you....

Reply #21 – March 10, 2009, 06:33:18 PM

when you put wider tires on the car it will follow cracks on the road alot more as well. If there lower profile tires, and slightly wider, they'll grab every crack.

Let the road take you....

Reply #22 – March 10, 2009, 09:03:31 PM

the rag joint would be pretty obvious, espcially with the key on car off, and rotate the wheel.

Its a visual inspection.

Let the road take you....

Reply #23 – March 11, 2009, 12:05:23 AM

yeah i know.... but i havent had time to mess with it, ive been working on my xr7 and working a lot lately....

Let the road take you....

Reply #24 – March 13, 2009, 08:07:26 PM

Well this weekend I am fixin this i hope....

I cant get ahold of the guy I usually have help me with stuff i have never done but i cant wait any longer. I am scared to drive it but have no other choice right now. I now run into the issue of what to replace first.

I am thinking tie rods due to the fact, if they fail the damage would be much worse an more expensive than replacing them now, then again (if needed) when i go manual rack.

At the same time, if it is the ball joint what would happen in the case of failure?

I am going to have to get an alignment which is going to eat the ball joint money up. So which is the best route to go? Rods or Ball joints?

Let the road take you....

Reply #25 – March 13, 2009, 09:04:52 PM

I would do both. Get the tie rods and a junk yard , or with your new rack if you have to.

Let the road take you....

Reply #26 – March 15, 2009, 04:22:15 AM

Quote from: DVP;261458

Well this weekend I am fixin this i hope....

I cant get ahold of the guy I usually have help me with stuff i have never done but i cant wait any longer. I am scared to drive it but have no other choice right now. I now run into the issue of what to replace first.
[COLOR="RoyalBlue"]dont shotgun, troubleshoot[/COLOR]

I am thinking tie rods due to the fact, if they fail the damage would be much worse an more expensive than replacing them now, then again (if needed) when i go manual rack.
[COLOR="royalblue"]why think, troubleshoot.[/COLOR]

At the same time, if it is the ball joint what would happen in the case of failure?
[COLOR="royalblue"]a mess that might total your car.[/COLOR]

I am going to have to get an alignment which is going to eat the ball joint money up. So which is the best route to go? Rods or Ball joints?
[COLOR="royalblue"]Troubleshoot the problem[/COLOR]

edits above

not getting anything done by sitting on the pc doing virtual repair senerios. If you dont have help then pay to have it troubleshot and repaired.

your additional description of the noise makes me think about what could pop.

Here are my last suggestions for you. I suggest you simply get your coveralls on, crawl under the car, look at "what holds my wheel on". now in your minds eye ask yourself what would happen when that tears up.

just a couple of things here
ball joint pops out of its outter casing
tie rod joint pops out of its outter casing

next , go back and use the techniques we talked about earlier to troubleshoot.
in addition, I have a thread on a "poping noise" which resulted in my getting a first go at CA bushing change outs.
I am curious about the pop you hear and it could be balljoints but just stop guessing. Tossing money at it is not teaching youself much. You can troubleshoot, find the defective part and then you can decide what you "want" to replace vs what would be a good idea to replace.

Balljoint replacements dont usually warrant a new alignment.
Tie rod ends do not either if your able to understand how the tie rod works, count the threads exposed, measure how far out the old one is set ect ect. I do however think that tie rod end replacements usually warrant an alignment. I put mine on and was able to get them set right back like the old ones. The problem was that i also kept the odd position of my steering wheel with relation to my moving in a straight line down the road (ie- wheel is slightly turned to the right).
what this tells me is i would have to adjust the driver tie rod inward and the pass side outward. I still want an alignment though.

Oh,, and one other thing,
most places will not warranty an alignment if for any reason your existing tires show signs of odd wear.
If your tires are worn odd, they must be replaced in order for an alignment to be properly done. This is where you dig deeper into your pocket. Is this standard operating procedure for repair places?=yes. Is it correct of them=yes. does it hurt=yes

Let the road take you....

Reply #27 – March 15, 2009, 04:35:22 AM

Ill throw in something else for you to troubleshoot also.

drive your car around making sure you must use the brakes often.
get out
feel the outside center of the rim or if you can, feel the caliper
do the same to the other front wheel

if one or both are super hot, then you may have found your problem.

A sticking brake caliper will make that noise as the pad glazes over from rubbing the rotor. Usually a sticking caliper isnt due to a bad caliper piston. Its usually due to lack of lubrication on the long torx bit bolts which allow the cliper piston to push out and retract the innner pad.
(again, the dynamics of a caliper are kind neat. one pad moves while the other pad gets pushed in by the piston.

the other secondary issue for it being brake related is the caliper brake line where the rubber line transtions to the metal fitting up on the frame. the rubber on the interior of the crimp may be breaking down and its creating something of a check valve perse'. you are able to push fluid to the caliper piston but it cant bleed back to the resivoir due to the interior of the line and its defective condition. This means the pads are mostly "partially" enguaged.

having the car do the identical same thing for both wheels in an unpredicatable manner tells me the problem most likely must be ONE thing in common with both wheels. I guess you already know what that one thing is. You did say you were being pulled in either direction without bias ,, correct?

Let the road take you....

Reply #28 – March 15, 2009, 04:44:07 AM

and another pop culpert ,,,,,

unlock steering wheel
jack stand both sides of car (must have weight off wheels)
grab inner tie rod end (part that enters the rack)
tug on it up and down / side to side.

if you have slop, then the pop is prob coming from the pinion in the rack slaming into the casing of your rack / pinion.

Let the road take you....

Reply #29 – March 15, 2009, 02:13:47 PM

Quote from: jcassity;261687

Here are my last suggestions for you.

Soon to be followed by 2 more LOL.

I jacked up the front of the car today and pulled on the wheels every way I could. Very little movement at all or sound. Also visually everything "looked" in its place not that that means anything.

Quote from: jcassity;261688

Ill throw in something else for you to troubleshoot also.

drive your car around making sure you must use the brakes often.
get out
feel the outside center of the rim or if you can, feel the caliper
do the same to the other front wheel

if one or both are super hot, then you may have found your problem.

A [SIZE="5"]sticking brake caliper[/SIZE] will make that noise as the pad glazes over from rubbing the rotor. Usually a sticking caliper isnt due to a bad caliper piston. Its usually due to lack of lubrication on the long torx bit bolts which allow the cliper piston to push out and retract the innner pad.
(again, the dynamics of a caliper are kind neat. one pad moves while the other pad gets pushed in by the piston.

the other secondary issue for it being brake related is the caliper brake line where the rubber line transtions to the metal fitting up on the frame. the rubber on the interior of the crimp may be breaking down and its creating something of a check valve perse'. you are able to push fluid to the caliper piston but it cant bleed back to the resivoir due to the interior of the line and its defective condition. This means the pads are mostly "partially" enguaged.

having the car do the identical same thing for both wheels in an unpredicatable manner tells me the problem most likely must be ONE thing in common with both wheels. I guess you already know what that one thing is. You did say you were being pulled in either direction without bias ,, correct?

Going to do this now. I have been having problems with them for awhile, actually have all the parts except the outer bearings. But do to the way it was jumping all over the road I automatically blamed suspension/ steering.

Quote from: jcassity;261689

and another pop culpert ,,,,,

unlock steering wheel
jack stand both sides of car (must have weight off wheels)
grab inner tie rod end (part that enters the rack)
tug on it up and down / side to side.

if you have slop, then the pop is prob coming from the pinion in the rack slaming into the casing of your rack / pinion.

Also due to the fact I know my rack is going out these combine seem to be the best options yet. We will see shortly.

Thanks