testing power door locks October 22, 2008, 12:06:20 AM I want to verify the solenoids are bad before replacing them. There are three wires at the connection to the switch. Which positions are positive and which are negative? Quote Selected
testing power door locks Reply #1 – October 22, 2008, 01:27:35 AM Quote from: t3skidoo;240090I want to verify the solenoids are bad before replacing them. There are three wires at the connection to the switch. Which positions are positive and which are negative?There are no positives at the switch. The switch does not directly operate the lock actuators. It provides ground to pick either the lock or unlock relay, or provide input to the keyless entry module if you have that feature. The actuators are little motors. Run the motor in one direction it locks, run in the other direction it unlocks.I can't remember if you can unplug the wires from the actuator without pulling it out. If you can get to them,you can run the little motor back and forth by reversing the polarity of the voltage.Important that the wires be unplugged from the actuator.If you want wiring diagrams and other trouble shooting tips, let us know what year your car is and if you have keyless entry. Quote Selected
testing power door locks Reply #2 – October 22, 2008, 01:34:35 AM Thanks for the reply.85 TC (early-midyear), no keyless.The wires to the actuator appear to be non-removable.If I understand correctly, it won't hurt the motor to swap polarity at the plug? Quote Selected
testing power door locks Reply #3 – October 22, 2008, 02:11:37 PM Quote from: t3skidoo;240100Thanks for the reply.85 TC (early-midyear), no keyless.The wires to the actuator appear to be non-removable.If I understand correctly, it won't hurt the motor to swap polarity at the plug?The wires are in a two wire connector that plugs into the bottom of the actuator. With it unplugged you can apply voltage directly to the motor. Yes, reverse the polarity to reverse the motor direction.Leaving the voltage applied for too long after it reaches it's limit of travel will cause the built-in circuit breaker to open up. It's the type that will reset itself after it cools off.You don't want to try to apply voltage with the wires still plugged into the actuator. When both the Lock and Unlock relays are not picked, they apply ground to both sides of the actuator motor. Quote Selected
testing power door locks Reply #4 – November 03, 2008, 06:15:40 PM Looks like the actuators are bad.I found these:http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,55101/initialAction,partProductDetail/initialpartType,00658/initialR,2546785/initialvehicleId,1152001/shopping/selectZip.htmAfter I recovered from the shock, I found these:http://www.thecarpartwarehouse.com/ford-lincoln-mercury-power-door-lock-actuator-dla--f001-item.htmlAnybody had any luck with the second, or have another suggestion? Quote Selected