Skip to main content
Topic: U joints, can I do it or is it a PITA? (Read 1722 times) previous topic - next topic

U joints, can I do it or is it a PITA?

So I need new u joints as the ones on the 88 T-bird are shot. They have been going since last summer when the  clunk when changing gears started. I was driving on the highway the other day and I noticed that the floor, seats, dash, and steering column vibrate at speeds above 70 mph. I jacked up the car and found the the u joints have virtualy no play rotationaly but a bit of up and down play. The disturbing thing is that both the front and rear u joints have lost virtually all of their grease as they are both covered in black caked on grease. They are pretty much shot, which is causing the  vibration.

So I need to get the things changed asap. Can I do it at home or am I better off taking the drive shaft in to have it done? Has anyone done it at home and if so do you have any tips?
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

U joints, can I do it or is it a PITA?

Reply #1
It would probably be just as easy to take it somewhere to get it done.  Unless you have access to a bench press to press the u joints out.  Taking it somewhere should cost maybe $50. The joints themselves are pretty cheep.

U joints, can I do it or is it a PITA?

Reply #2
I have the u joints so I just need to get them in. I don't have a press but I do have a really, really, big vice though :hick:
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

U joints, can I do it or is it a PITA?

Reply #3
Its not that hard.  Ive done it on several cars without a press.  If they are rusted up they are a real PITA.

I set up a little wooden channel that the driveshaft lays in.
Then i put a large socket under the lower side. 
Match Mark the driveshaft to the .
Remove the retaining clips with vice grips and a screw driver.
I soak the thing in penetrating oil and then come back a half hour later.
Then I take a smaller socket and gently tap the cap through the other side.
Sometimes, if they are stubborn, once I have enough play in the cap being tapped out, I use a small screwdriver to drive it out the rest of the way.

Re-installation is the opposite.  Clean up the  with a piece of sandpaper. 
Remove the grease fitting (for clearance).


I have done it this way 2 times and I probably got lucky both times. I would probably recommend having someone else do it though.  Its kinda a huge PITA doing it this way and if you bend up your  your in a world of hurt. 

I am sure I will get pounced on and called an idiot but I have done it successfully this way.  I still recommend taking it to a shop to have it done as it should be cheap. 

Here is a good article if your a DIY type.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_central/automotive/1272541.html

U joints, can I do it or is it a PITA?

Reply #4
Make sure you check the bolts one at the rear end. You know where the drive shaft  bolts to the rear. I had a similar problem and those little bolts had started to loosen up on me. As for the U-joints they are easy. If you can get you hands on a U joint/ball joint press. It looks like a large C-clamp. You can rent them at most part stores. That tool makes it a breeze.
84 Turbo coupe 2.3T Modded with 88 upper and lower intake, 88 injectors, E6 manifold, T3-4 AR.60 turbo, 31X12X3 FMIC, Homemade MBC , Greddy knock off BPV.
4 eyes see better than 2! 
Da Bird!

FreeBird

U joints, can I do it or is it a PITA?

Reply #5
Quote from: danzajax;220855
Its not that hard.  Ive done it on several cars without a press.  If they are rusted up they are a real PITA.

I set up a little wooden channel that the driveshaft lays in.
Then i put a large socket under the lower side. 
Match Mark the driveshaft to the .
Remove the retaining clips with vice grips and a screw driver.
I soak the thing in penetrating oil and then come back a half hour later.
Then I take a smaller socket and gently tap the cap through the other side.
Sometimes, if they are stubborn, once I have enough play in the cap being tapped out, I use a small screwdriver to drive it out the rest of the way.

Re-installation is the opposite.  Clean up the  with a piece of sandpaper. 
Remove the grease fitting (for clearance).


I have done it this way 2 times and I probably got lucky both times. I would probably recommend having someone else do it though.  Its kinda a huge PITA doing it this way and if you bend up your  your in a world of hurt. 

I am sure I will get pounced on and called an idiot but I have done it successfully this way.  I still recommend taking it to a shop to have it done as it should be cheap. 

Here is a good article if your a DIY type.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_central/automotive/1272541.html


im not sure what planet your from but apparently you and i live on the same one.

A hand sledge to strike as mentioned above will get the caps to come through just fine.  Ive never bent a  but i guess if your careless you can.

The only thing i would add is you better  sure make certain your caps are aligned when the new joints go in or you will get a roll pin pen 15eyed.

everything you said sounds like what eveyone has done many times,, excluding the "gentle" part. 
there isnt too much gentle when doing ujoints,, just brute force.

U joints, can I do it or is it a PITA?

Reply #6
Quote from: jcassity;220963
im not sure what planet your from but apparently you and i live on the same one.

A hand sledge to strike as mentioned above will get the caps to come through just fine.  Ive never bent a  but i guess if your careless you can.

The only thing i would add is you better  sure make certain your caps are aligned when the new joints go in or you will get a roll pin pen 15eyed.

everything you said sounds like what eveyone has done many times,, excluding the "gentle" part. 
there isnt too much gentle when doing ujoints,, just brute force.

LOL finally someone who sees it my way.

Ive been zapped on here before for suggesting the way I do things. 
I just didn't want him to wack it with a sledge.  I get by just fine being careful.  I had a friend in high school with a LTD that vibrated like a magic fingers bed because he "bent the ".  I think he just knocked off a drive shaft weight.

Now that you mention it.  I do remember wailing on the first one with some pretty good force.  I used a standard hammer though.  Nailing away on a cheap socket.

2x on the alignment.  And make 3x positive that all your pins are on the sides of the cap.

Ive done several the way I mentioned and they all worked fine for me.  I have heard tale that heating it up with a torch helps too.

U joints, can I do it or is it a PITA?

Reply #7
Quote from: danzajax;220855
Its not that hard.  Ive done it on several cars without a press.  If they are rusted up they are a real PITA.

I set up a little wooden channel that the driveshaft lays in.
Then i put a large socket under the lower side. 
Match Mark the driveshaft to the .
Remove the retaining clips with vice grips and a screw driver.
I soak the thing in penetrating oil and then come back a half hour later.
Then I take a smaller socket and gently tap the cap through the other side.
Sometimes, if they are stubborn, once I have enough play in the cap being tapped out, I use a small screwdriver to drive it out the rest of the way.

Re-installation is the opposite.  Clean up the  with a piece of sandpaper. 
Remove the grease fitting (for clearance).


I have done it this way 2 times and I probably got lucky both times. I would probably recommend having someone else do it though.  Its kinda a huge PITA doing it this way and if you bend up your  your in a world of hurt. 

I am sure I will get pounced on and called an idiot but I have done it successfully this way.  I still recommend taking it to a shop to have it done as it should be cheap. 

Here is a good article if your a DIY type.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_central/automotive/1272541.html


Thats pretty much the way I've done it on my vans and cars. I've never had a problem getting them apart.
I've done it on the side of the road once. Thats when you know they're ready to replace. LOL
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook

U joints, can I do it or is it a PITA?

Reply #8
Well I took the easy way out:D . My uncle has a big ass press so I went by him and we pressed them out 1-2-3. We replaced both even though the rear one was the problem. The front one looked ok but the rear was frozen in one direction. The bearings were just dust in two of the caps opposite of each other.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

U joints, can I do it or is it a PITA?

Reply #9
I did mine in my grandma's driveway with a C-clamp and a big socket...it was pretty easy actually.

Oh yeah, and I put red loctite on the driveshaft bolts, of course.

Garrett H.
'94 F250 XLT- 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo Diesel, 4" intake, 4" exhaust, 5" turnout stacks, manual hubs, etc.
'87 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
Engine, wheels, tires, etc!
Exhaust sound clip
Another clip

U joints, can I do it or is it a PITA?

Reply #10
I've always used the "beat 'em out" method, even working in shops that had presses. I just find it easier. The only "problem" I ever had was my first one, which happened to be a driveshaft that had nylon retainers cast into it when new instead of the normal C-clips. It was many years ago, but I think this may have been my '85 T-Bird. If not it would've been a 78 or 80 Firebird.  I beat that thing silly but the U-joint wouldn't move. My father then showed me a neat trick - he heated the yoke with a propane torch. Nothing happened for a long time as he kept heating it, then suddenly "POP" - this orange stuff popped out of a small hole, then started coming out of the hole like one of those snake things you light on fire. After a few seconds it stopped coming out, and the U-joint then came out like butter. The replacement U-joint had clips.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

 

U joints, can I do it or is it a PITA?

Reply #11
Quote from: Thunder Chicken;221186
I've always used the "beat 'em out" method, even working in shops that had presses. I just find it easier. The only "problem" I ever had was my first one, which happened to be a driveshaft that had nylon retainers cast into it when new instead of the normal C-clips. It was many years ago, but I think this may have been my '85 T-Bird. If not it would've been a 78 or 80 Firebird.  I beat that thing silly but the U-joint wouldn't move. My father then showed me a neat trick - he heated the yoke with a propane torch. Nothing happened for a long time as he kept heating it, then suddenly "POP" - this orange stuff popped out of a small hole, then started coming out of the hole like one of those snake things you light on fire. After a few seconds it stopped coming out, and the U-joint then came out like butter. The replacement U-joint had clips.


FINALLY!!!!
Someone else who knows about that FUBAR situation.  Ever since I discovered Chevy did this to a S10 truck I worked on back in 91,, I have always looked for the plastic pin in the knuckles of the drive shaft.

The way I look for them is i take out my pocket knife and s the sides of the Knuckles, if I see a tiny 1/8'' dot and i am able to whittle at it, I know for a fact im not gonna get anywhere with this friggin D/S without heat.