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Topic: Dash removal (Read 1458 times) previous topic - next topic

Dash removal

Going to the j/y to pull a dash, saw the link on CoolCats about changing the heater core and the 7 bolts/nuts to loosen the dash from the cowl I am assuming that the center stack items will need to be yanked and cluster unplugged and such but is there anything else to watch for. Thanks

Dash removal

Reply #1 –
Also, do the speaker covers attatch from above the dash or below

Dash removal

Reply #2 –
They pop into the top the dash from above with little clips.  A small flathead screwdriver is all you need.  You should see a slightly wider spot in the grooves right by the clips.
2000 Jaguar XK8 Convertible - 4.0L DOHC V8 (AJ27)
2018 Ford Explorer - 3.5L DOHC V6 (Duratec 35)
1999 Mercury Grand Marquis - 4.6L SOHC V8 (Modular)
1987 Mercury Cougar LS - 5.0L V8 (Windsor) [SOLD in 2009]

Dash removal

Reply #3 –
No,you don't have to remove the gauges,or "center stack" controls.They'll be fine.You're not removing the whole dash,just pulling it back enough,mostly on the passenger side,to do the work.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Dash removal

Reply #4 –
Quote from: vinnietbird;214993
No,you don't have to remove the gauges,or "center stack" controls.They'll be fine.You're not removing the whole dash,just pulling it back enough,mostly on the passenger side,to do the work.


I want the dash though. Not the heater core.

Dash removal

Reply #5 –
Oh,you mean pulling the dash from the salvage car.Personally,when I pulled my dash  from a salvage yard for my blue Tbird,I pulled the dash forward,and cut every wire behind it to make the job quicker,then,upon getting home,I removed everything from the "new" dash and reversed the process to install it.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Dash removal

Reply #6 –
If you use a small screw driver to pop the speaker grills, DO NOT PRY AGAINST THE DASH!! Pull up ONLY!  Sorry, LOL, but that is the only reason my dash went from perfect to JUNK.  The vinyl gets hard after a long time and even a tiny pry will make a crack that will on continue to grow!
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats
 

Dash removal

Reply #7 –
Thanks guys, got it out and home today. I cant believe how good of shape its in. It came out of a 86 Cougar with 199k miles. It even still runs. It is still inspected but the former owner felt the rust issues werent worth fixing. Kind of a weird car, very low option V8 car. It does have a trunk rack which looks factory if thats possible.