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Topic: Bench Testing Lights/Electros (Read 1295 times) previous topic - next topic

Bench Testing Lights/Electros

Whats a safe voltage to bench test fog lights, interior lights, And electroluminescent lights?
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Bench Testing Lights/Electros

Reply #1
I'd say anywhere between 11-15 volts should be OK. Just be sure your power supply has enough current capacity if you're gonna test fog lights or headlights
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Bench Testing Lights/Electros

Reply #2
Just use an old computer power supply - they're free and supply 10+ amps on the 12v. Sometimes you may need to add a resistor to the 5v to get enough voltage on the 12 though.
1988 Thunderbird Sport

Bench Testing Lights/Electros

Reply #3
or just use a car battery?

The computer power supplies are good but I wouldnt test higher power lights on them like the fog lights. A lot of them put out enough power but some of the older ones only put a few amps of 12v out. Especially ones for brand name pc's like buttpaqs, hp's. etc.
93 Festiva L, 193k miles, BP+T/G25MR swap, T3 50trim .48/.42, SRT FMIC, Capri electronics/Rocketchip, 2.5" exhaust
bests: ET 12.86, MPH 110.25, 1.92 short
02 Subaru Impreza WRX, 129k miles
97 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 236k miles

Bench Testing Lights/Electros

Reply #4
Ok cool,
I might rig together a high output power supply at some point, I have a ton of computer parts/psu as i build them up and such.

But for now ill just use a car batt or try and get a motorcycle batt, or my dad suggested a car battery charger.
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Bench Testing Lights/Electros

Reply #5
A car battery charger will have too high a voltage if it's not connected to a battery
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Bench Testing Lights/Electros

Reply #6
I've tested 600w and 800w rms amps on a computer power supply without much issue - only began to cut out when cranked :hick:

This was with an old 230w power supply that was like 8A on the 12v. It was putting out 11v without any load on the 5v. A 55w foglight is less than 5 amps draw so bulbs aren't an issue. I didn't even have an issue with starting dual Bosch HID ballasts up which are known to have huge spikes until the bulbs are warmed up.
1988 Thunderbird Sport

Bench Testing Lights/Electros

Reply #7
You guys who are working with 12v circuits may want to think about picking up a old variable P/S... I use this one for a number of different things, but basically it was designed to power car radios built back when tubes were the norm...

Here is a 9004 headlamp bulb at 6v and approx 3amps


At 12vand 6a



Main issue would be it isn't regulated, so on something like Carm's signal lamp sequencer the voltage would fall as current demand increases(additional lamps on)...

Bench Testing Lights/Electros

Reply #8
Thats pretty neat. I bet they aint too easy to find though.
93 Festiva L, 193k miles, BP+T/G25MR swap, T3 50trim .48/.42, SRT FMIC, Capri electronics/Rocketchip, 2.5" exhaust
bests: ET 12.86, MPH 110.25, 1.92 short
02 Subaru Impreza WRX, 129k miles
97 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 236k miles

Bench Testing Lights/Electros

Reply #9
Quote from: bhazard;210617
Thats pretty neat. I bet they aint too easy to find though.


I got this one years ago but they are on ebay... Or if you are lucky enough to have a surplus electronics store in your area can usually find one cheap...

There are regulated models available, the B&K 1601 comes to mind... I believe it supplies 0-30v...

I have a BK 1602 for powering tube B+ circuits, that one supplies 350v but at only 1/4 amp(it will seriously knock you on your ass)...

[COLOR="red"]ON further investigation I see the 1601 is only rated at 2A, so can't handle much current...[/COLOR]

 

Bench Testing Lights/Electros

Reply #10
I've got a 10-amp regulated, fixed voltage (13.8V) power supply on my test bench. I use a lead-acid emergency light battery in parallel with the PS to smooth out any remaining leftover AC ripple and to provide some extra punch when required. Kind of like a welfare capacitor :hick: Whenever the PS is turned on it's charging the battery.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣