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Topic: Changing my Dizzys (Read 1751 times) previous topic - next topic

Changing my Dizzys

Reply #15
one tooth off should not be an issue and can be made up like mentioned.  i researched this a month or so ago when i came across a diagram of the "1 tooth off theory" as it would effect the pickup or hull effect and posted a topic on here about it.  I think one tooth off isnt that bigadeal.  The "one tooth off thing and how it effects the little blades that pass thru the pickup was wayyyy over my head and i couldnt figure it out.

should have marked where the pointer was pointing on the dizzy,, then mark the base of the dissy to the engine.

one mark aligns your rotor and the other aligns your advance.

Distributor check and reseting.
remove #1 plug
insert a decent wad of tissue paper tightly in the spark plug  hole
quickly bump engine over until you hear the tissue paper pop out
you are now on compression stroke for number one cyl but not tdc
looking directly at the crank pully rotate the crank CW until pointer is on tdc
as you trun your crank, use a narrow screwdriver in the plug hole and touching the piston
as you rotate the crank, the screwdriver will rise as you hold it.
you will feel a flat area where nothing happens then it changes
go back to where you were and line back up to where the piston is tdc.
if the pass valve cover is off, both #1 rockers should be kinda loose
remove dizzy cap and rotor should be pointing directly at number 1 post
if its ahead or behind, you are off and dizzy needs reset.
**if its off by like a half inch or so, then dont pull the dizzy, just adjust by advance or retarding.
The proper or typical look of a dizzy is the rotor point at number one post and the TFI pointing towards
the drivers front corner. (this is just my opinion).  After the dizzy is checked, you have room to advance either
direction.

RESET
remove 1/2 bolt,keeper at the base of dizzy
remove tfi plug
the dizzy will be tight to get out at first cause of the oring at the base
be careful if you do not know whos been in your motor before. 
its possible the oil pump shaft may not have the keeper on
if it does not, the oil pump shaft may fall down into the timing cover/oil pan
if this happens, your screwed.
there is no way to tell if the little slip on keeper is installed or not.
you can only tell if the motor is opened up.
Gently rotate the dizzy back and forth while trying to lift it.
lube up the oring with grease at the base of the dizzy and the hole
when you get it out, guess / estimate your location/orientation of the rotor.
its a good idea to look at other engines as to how their dizzy sits
the orientation of the tfi is important for setting the timing later.
drop the dizzy and fully seat it.
check to see if it will be point to number 1 post
if it does, snug on the keep / bolt and use your timing light to adjust.
set timing to 10deg btdc or whatever you prefer.

**sometimes you may have to nudge the crank either cw or ccw a wee bit to get the hex shaped
oil pump shaft to mate up inside the dizzy shaft.  this gets tricky and if you cant get the dizzy to seat,
you gotta keep tinkering with the crank either direction while trying to seat the dizzy.

 

Changing my Dizzys

Reply #16
Ok, project for tomorow. Will one tooth really be THAT far off? I'm fairly confident It's close if not right.