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Topic: rust on the frame (Read 1336 times) previous topic - next topic

rust on the frame

my baby has abit of cancer under the hood on the fram rail right by the k member {on top} i can only assume it is rotted were te k member bolts up aswell. anyone have any tips for repare? im not sing the car and iam not gunna repace that whole railthat is for dam sure. my plan right now is to grind it down to as thin as i needto to get it clean and ifi cant....cut the side ff the frame and repaire it...and if i cant i reckon ill build me a new rail from there on up to the front of the car. im determined haa. i no you guys have this problem to  have seen it discussed. any tips?

rust on the frame

Reply #1 –
Don't grind it, use a wire wheel it will preserve the metal better.  You may want to get ahold of some sulfuric acid to try and eat what rust you cant see.
One 88

rust on the frame

Reply #2 –
:iagree: wire wheel or 3M clean n' strip to remove the rust.
1980 birds X 3, 1982 bird, 1984 XR7, 1988 TC

rust on the frame

Reply #3 –
thanks fellas il let ya no what happens:cool:

rust on the frame

Reply #4 –
Depends on how bad the rust is.
I'm assuming you have a small hole or crack in the rail???
If so your the only correct course of action is to yank the engine and k-member and cut out the rail,then box up a new piece of steel and weld it on.
Remember to take measurements of the existing k member mounting holes before you cut out the old piece though, or you'll never get it aligned right.
Also welding a piece over top will only be a bandaid,as the rust is inside the rail and cannot be repaired only replaced.
If you plan on keeping the car this is your only course of action as rust spreads like cancer as we all know.
I had these same issues with my last bird and i had to do what i said above and then send the frame to a body shop,cost me 800.00 and that was considered cheap for 2 newley fabricated rails as ford does not make such a thing.
Also while your at it check the rot on your torque boxes,if it is bad it may just be best to let the car go and get one with less/no rust,had to do it myself after i tore my rotted torque box and the rear end started shifting.
Stripped and sped the car after that,was gonna cost upwards of 3000.00 to fab up a rear frame and i came across my low mileage TC  for 2200.00.
Just warning you of a possible experience you may have.
P.S.if you install a new rail steel sleeves must be installed inside of the rail where the k member bolts go through,otherwise the frame will crush when you tighten the bolts,that is how it is from the factory.

rust on the frame

Reply #5 –
thanks alot for the help! i will see how bad it is after i get teh k member out{motor is long gone-awaiting my 521 stroker:beatyoass: } ill see how bad everything is and consider as you said maybee picking up a new bird but im partial to it so it will be hard haha. im curious...you side you sent the fram to the body shop when you were done... why? not being a smart ass im just seeing what i will have to do. to prosionally weld it? square it up? paint it? thanks again
 

rust on the frame

Reply #6 –
Not a very good welder myself and my frame was really bad.
Had to be braced before the rails where cut off do to the front end possibly collapsing after the rotted pieces where removed also i didn't have the place to work on it.
Measurements due have to be taken though for the bolt holes before removal of the rotted rails and trust me if your thinking 521 in this car the torque boxes and the rails you build for the front end have to be mint,that's alot of torque your talking about.
My 302HO i installed after getting it back was enough to snap my rotted boxes let alone a 521.