Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: charging issues, new alt and battery (Read 1449 times) previous topic - next topic

charging issues, new alt and battery

Hello all.
So I have a 1989 cougar ls (3.8L V6) with 41,000 original miles on it. For various reasons unrelated to this post, I have had to take apart most of my dash (including my radio, HVAC controls/wiring, and various small interior components). Consequently, my glaring lack of technical skill/excessive faffing about with wires caused me to short circuit something. Oops. Also during this escapade of mine, my alternator decided to  out (whether or not my tinkering caused the failure i may never know), taking my battery with it. And so I swallowed hard and spent many, many money out of my measly salary to replace them. However, despite my brand new alternator putting out its expected voltage (about 13.7 I think), that voltage is not making it back to my battery to recharge it. F**k. I have started checking for power drains (shorted out wires, things left on, errant pigtails touching the frame, etc.) and I am finding none. Next, I went after my fuse box with a fuse puller and removed anything that was not strictly necessary (like interior lights and my a/c). This still didn't solve my escaping voltage problem. I talked with various car guys that i know, and they suggested I check the fusible link protecting my ignition and/or charging systems. Trouble is, I can't find the  things. The repair guide states that they are located "near the starter relay." The guide also says that the fusible links for the ignition feed and charging systems are 16 GA (Black) and 14 GA (dark green), respectively. Can anyone help me out with where they might be hiding? Any advice would be appreciated.

UPDATE: I have taken the alternator in for testing, and it is definitely working. I have also replaced the connector on the alternator. I checked/replaced all fusible links and put new terminals on the battery wires (to improve the connections to the battery posts). My battery is still leaking voltage. I wired my multimeter to my battery and then ran wires up to my dash in order to get real time data on my battery voltage. It's still leaking. I was informed by the guy at the auto parts store that my battery is slightly too small for my car. Could this be causing my problem?

charging issues, new alt and battery

Reply #1 –
What is the battery voltage compared to the alt voltage?

Worse case you can simply add a 10 guage wire from the charge wire of the alt and then wire in a new fuseable link or relay.

 The fuseable links are the "extra" wires bolted to the starter solenoid. If you follow those, there is usually even a replaceable plug after the fuseable link to make replacement super easy. I bought a car for $400 that was "damaged in an electrical fire". As soon as I realized that they guy put the battery in backwards (was still installed backwards) that 5 mins at the junkyard and I'd have a running car.

Gave the guy his money, signed over the title got keys and told him I'd be back later to get it home. Hit the junkyard, bought the harness for $5 and swapped it in. Car fired right up and while I was checking a replacing fuses he walked up and told me " the price just went up", I laughed and told him we already shook hands and gave me the title. Guy called the cops on me after I left and told them I stole his car and he left the title I. The glove box. Luckily I printed a copy of the ad he pulled down.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com
 

charging issues, new alt and battery

Reply #2 –
With the key off:
Check for battery voltage on the alternator B+ (BK/O wire) and the regulator A terminal (Y/W wire).
No voltage on either or both of these = blown fuse link.
If voltage is bad, check the wires at the starter relay terminal that has the red battery cable on it.
Look for insulation that looks like it has over heated and try stretching the wire to see if wire inside is broken.
The fuse link may be attached to the relay terminal or a regular wire may go to a splice (a big ) that connects to several fuse links.

If the voltages are good, turn the key on without starting the engine. The alternator warning light should be on.
Is it?