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Topic: Walbro fuel pump install (Read 4479 times) previous topic - next topic

Walbro fuel pump install

Since I'm installing a supercharger on my car, I needed to upgrade my fuel pump. However, many companies assume the fuel pump setup in our cars is the same as a fox mustang, when its actually very different. Luckily, I didn't need to use my car for a few days, and was able to find the correct install kit. I couldn't find this info on here, so I thought I'd post up for anyone else attempting this.

Here it is: Kit 33
http://apeusa.com/html/kits.html

Works perfectly to install a walbro gss340, or in my case the 320lph pump from High Flow Fuel.

Chris
87 Thunderbird 5.0
Engine: 97 p-code explorer block, heads, and intake; 88 HO cam, 1.7 RR's, A9P, Kenne Bell 2.1 Flow/Blow 8psi, 42lb injectors, LMAF, 75mm TB, Tuned by Don Lasota
Trans: 02 Stang 4r70w with Baumann TCS
Suspension: Front: 03-04 cobra springs and struts, TC rack. Rear: CHE arms, ChuckW shock mounts, Bullitt springs and shocks
5 bolt with 95 mustang front and mark vii rear.
TC 3.73 L/S rear
03-04 SVT Cobra 17x9's with 275/40r17's.

Walbro fuel pump install

Reply #1
What's not the same ?

I'm about to swap pumps soon

Walbro fuel pump install

Reply #2
The mustang pump is mounted vertically, where ours is horizontal. Most of the kit can be made to work, though the included chunk of fuel line will be too short. The critical issue is the strainer though. The mustang one is flat, and would stick way up in our tank, probably sucking air at half a tank or so. The one included with the kit i posted is a perfect match for the factory strainer, except that it fits the walbro pump.
The kit also comes with a new rubber mount for the pump, instead of a foam sleeve to adapt it to the factory mount, so thats nice.
The kit has the correct o-ring for the top of the tank as well, the one in a mustang kit will be too small. I didn't need it, as i bought a replacement lock ring and o-ring as well.

Thunderbird fuel hanger


Mustang fuel hanger


Chris
87 Thunderbird 5.0
Engine: 97 p-code explorer block, heads, and intake; 88 HO cam, 1.7 RR's, A9P, Kenne Bell 2.1 Flow/Blow 8psi, 42lb injectors, LMAF, 75mm TB, Tuned by Don Lasota
Trans: 02 Stang 4r70w with Baumann TCS
Suspension: Front: 03-04 cobra springs and struts, TC rack. Rear: CHE arms, ChuckW shock mounts, Bullitt springs and shocks
5 bolt with 95 mustang front and mark vii rear.
TC 3.73 L/S rear
03-04 SVT Cobra 17x9's with 275/40r17's.

Walbro fuel pump install

Reply #3
Good info


Walbro fuel pump install

Reply #5
I assume you were using a different walbro. The strainer was nowhere close to fitting on mine. Do you know which pump model, as that would also be great info?
Thanks,
Chris
87 Thunderbird 5.0
Engine: 97 p-code explorer block, heads, and intake; 88 HO cam, 1.7 RR's, A9P, Kenne Bell 2.1 Flow/Blow 8psi, 42lb injectors, LMAF, 75mm TB, Tuned by Don Lasota
Trans: 02 Stang 4r70w with Baumann TCS
Suspension: Front: 03-04 cobra springs and struts, TC rack. Rear: CHE arms, ChuckW shock mounts, Bullitt springs and shocks
5 bolt with 95 mustang front and mark vii rear.
TC 3.73 L/S rear
03-04 SVT Cobra 17x9's with 275/40r17's.

Walbro fuel pump install

Reply #6
The critical issue is the correct connecting hose. It must be a submersible type. The strainer does not make much difference because it is never recommended to run an EFI car lower than 1/4 tank . But i get what you are doing. Also i never use the insulator. Normally i use a hose clamp to mount the pump or pumps. Bellow is my pump setup for one of my cars. I needed more fuel as the car leaned out on the dyno run. Ran out of fuel delivery.

I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!


Walbro fuel pump install

Reply #8
Thanks for that link

My 255 started wining real bad one day when I pulled into work

On the way home it was down on power and fell on its face in boost

Checked the fuel pressure and it was way down

Going to order one this weekend

Walbro fuel pump install

Reply #9
Tom, hose clamps work fine for mounting, and thanks for bringing up the submersible rated hose. The standard efi hose turns to mush in a tank quick, had to deal with that before.
I'd argue about the strainer though. I actually got the kit info from a mark VII forum. Several people used the generic walbro strainer, and were loosing fuel pressure during launches and hard cornering, with over 1/2 tank. Even if you put together a kit, I'd get the correct strainer. They can be had on ebay for 10 bucks or so.

Nice dual pump. Did you just y the pump outputs together?
Also, on mustangs (and probably thunderbirds), I know you need to upgrade your fuel lines for a pump bigger than 340lph or so. The stock lines simply have too much restriction to be efficient with that much fuel flow.

Chris
87 Thunderbird 5.0
Engine: 97 p-code explorer block, heads, and intake; 88 HO cam, 1.7 RR's, A9P, Kenne Bell 2.1 Flow/Blow 8psi, 42lb injectors, LMAF, 75mm TB, Tuned by Don Lasota
Trans: 02 Stang 4r70w with Baumann TCS
Suspension: Front: 03-04 cobra springs and struts, TC rack. Rear: CHE arms, ChuckW shock mounts, Bullitt springs and shocks
5 bolt with 95 mustang front and mark vii rear.
TC 3.73 L/S rear
03-04 SVT Cobra 17x9's with 275/40r17's.

Walbro fuel pump install

Reply #10
Ran two lines to the engine and split the rails. And yes a bigger hose is necessary and always a good idea. I get what you are saying about the sock but normally i modify the brackets that hold the pump and make sure the sock is positioned correctly and always under the fuel. Good info though as most of my customers always buy a universal pump and i have to modify the mounting. Have a good day guys!

Note i always remove the connector from the pump side and solder the connectors to the pump leads. I also do the same for the mount side if it has a connector. I have had many a pump fail because of an overheated connection. Soldering the connections is mandatory in my opinion. Bellow is a connector from my TYPHOON. Notice how the connector melted inside the tank connector. I used the sender ground wire as another feed to the pump and soldered the connections as i always do. Doubling up the connector and wires does the trick. Then i use the body of the tank unit for the grounds for the pump and sender. Works great. And dont forget to modify the outside electrical connector to match what wires you used on the inside. Another words you need to shift them around and also solder them together. Thanks









An extra ground on the pump mount fixes the voltage drop to the new pump which draws more current than the connector was designed for that melts it in the first place. Modification done and the pump lives on happily ever after with the proper amount of voltage with no voltage drop.  Have a good day FOLKS!




I also steal the ground from the tank sender for the gauge and use it to double up the pump's ground as well. Then i ground the tank sender to the body of the pump mount. This frees up 2 connectors and wires inside the pump assembly to be used to feed the new pump that draws more current and caused the issue in the first place. Dont think that buying a new pump assembly cures this as it does not. made in CHINA dictates poorer quality and most tank units are obsolete. So no other choice than modifying the unit as i explained. Hope this helps. Thanks again!!

NOTE never use those crimp connectors for anything in your car. Especially to install a new pump adapter. They are garbage and will cause issues down the road. Always solder and shrink wrap. Especially when those connections are inside a gas tank!!!!!!!!!!!

I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Walbro fuel pump install

Reply #11
I don't have much to say about it but I did also mod my 84 TC original sending unit.

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84 TurboCoupe with 302 .010 over - 9.8 : 1 Forged Pistons - Edlebrock Goodies:  Aluminum Heads #6037, Intake #3821, 65mm TBI/EGR #3824/3827, Camshaft #3722 -  Interactive System & Technologies Mass Air with 24# Injectors - A9L - 3g Alternator - BBK shorties, Cat Converter H-pipe, Magniflow lers - World Class T5 1352-169 (1986, V8, WC, 3.15 3.35 1.93 1.29 1.00 0.68) OEM Clutch Cable - 7.5 Trac Lock with 3.08 and slapper bars from 82 Mustang.

Walbro fuel pump install

Reply #12
Looks good that works. But!! You could have eliminated the crimp connectors by cutting the original wires off the unit and soldering the new connector wires directly to the old ones close to the terminal ends. But always make sure you leave a small amount of the old copper so the connection is good for soldering. You can see that FORD uses the body for the ground for the sender but not the pump. Thanks. Have a good day folks!

Note when soldering use a good hot iron app 30W and solder it fast as to not melt the feed through insulators. You do not want the insulators to melt. So as fast as you can cool it after you solder it.
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Walbro fuel pump install

Reply #13
Ive never been great at soldering, I can get it done, but I always want to do better.  Anyone got a good link or advise to improve my skills???
Mike

 

Walbro fuel pump install

Reply #14
You just have to practice. Parts have to be clean and proper heat with the iron. Also you need 50 50 Rosin core solder. Simple to do. Have a good week guys.
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!