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Topic: Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished (Read 7365 times) previous topic - next topic

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #30 –
Quote from: Kitz Kat;374712
I have to keep mine adjusted with about a 1/4 " free play to work right. I even took the mat out to help.

Me too. Gotta keep the mat from sliding up towards the firewall, otherwise, shifting is effected.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #31 –
Thun
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #32 –
I think i know what you mean...the fulcrum, or the pivot point for the fork..?

Having never seen the 2.3 T5 system, (despite having a 2.3 T5 Stang in my garage) It just seemed odd, but now I have a grasp on it lol
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #33 –
Yes
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #34 –
Well I got the new Steeda clutch quadrant and adjustable clutch cable put in today in about 2 hrs.  The quadrant swap went pretty smoothly actually.  I had more time in getting the drivers seat back in!  The power seat motor that moves the seat forward has decided to quit so that made it extremely difficult to get to the right rear 5/8 nut! (anyone know a good place to get a power seat motor?)

I was afraid of adjusting the cable too tightly and prematurely wearing the clutch out.  Where I have it adjusted to right now, the clutch pedal engagement is still a tad close to the floor.  Its not nearly as close as before, but I would prefer it be a little higher.  In the instructions for the quadrant and cable install, it said that if the cable is adjusted too loosely, you will hear a rattle under the dash.  Sure enough during my "shakedown run" I noted a rather nasty rattle coming from the area of the clutch pedal. 

Sounds like the car will be going back up in the air before spring for some more adjustment.  To those of you with the adjustable clutch cable...got any tips on deciding where the sweet spot is? 

On a side note, the T-bird did its first burnout since swapping in the T-5.  I never got white smoke and sideways action like that with the AOD!:burnout::evilgrin:
'88 'bird, 10.9:1 306 w/TFS top end, forged rods/pistons, T-5 swap & bunch of other stuff, 1-family owned, had it since ‘98, 5.0tbrd88 on Instagram and YouTube

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #35 –
Quote from: 50tbrd88;376193
........... white smoke and sideways action......... :burnout::evilgrin:

 
That's the whole point of owning a rear wheel drive V8!!
1988 T-Bird Sport Coupe--5.0 HO, MAF swap, 1-5/8" shorties, BBK/Flowmaster exhaust, Explorer intake, 70mm Edelbrock TB, T5, B&M short throw, Centerforce clutch and PP, disc brake TC rear w/ 3.55's, TC front brakes, '98 Cobra springs, DIY SFC's, other misc .  14.05 @ 98mph with launching too low and shifting too high.

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #36 –
In my opinion its up to the driver, I have it all out way low close to the floor. But I'm 6'5" and my buddy's mustang he likes it close to the height of the brake pedal. As long as it can fully engage and disengage it should just be a matter of comfort.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]:ford:87 Turbo Coupe through the floor sub frame connectors, 5.8 swap Ford racing heads Harland sharp 1.6 rockers BBK shorty swap headers 2 1/2 BBk X pipe magnaflow ler's. Megasquirt 2 with 36lbs injectors on hurricane intake with 4150 throttle body.Tremec TKO 600 Quicktime blowsheild spec stage 3 clutch. 3.73 gears and still not done

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #37 –
Actu
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!
 

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #38 –
Tom is on the money as usual and if you are looking for longevity of the clutch setup heed his words.  Me, I like my pedal at the top so I keep the cable adjusted to where it is about one turn on the nut tight on the clutch fork.  The last RAM HD clutch setup went 60K miles and I drove that car really hard.  I would put a set of rear tires on every 10K on 200 tread life tires (Yokohama AVS 100's).  I think its what you are willing to sacrifice for your driving style and comfort.  For me having the clutch start to engage anything lower than the break pedal height does not work but again its my preference.  Is it the best for longevity of the clutch setup? Doubt it but then again I did not build either car to see if I can get 100K out of any of the parts.  They are built for the sheer grin factor how hard you get into and leave the twists and turns.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp