Lemme start over . . . .

Topic: Lemme start over . . . . (Read 3599 times) previous topic - next topic

Lemme start over . . . .

Reply #15 – August 14, 2011, 05:27:54 PM

Hope this EVTM scan isn't too blurry. I haven't been able to post a clear scan since we went to the current server. The auto sizing won't let it get big enough.

Lemme start over . . . .

Reply #16 – August 14, 2011, 05:47:18 PM

Yeah, I checked again and the wire is actually black/orange (not just black) so that is the one. Thanks, that should save me some hassle.

Here is one last question then. The replacement fusible links I am seeing listed online are all single wires. So how do I handle this setup where one wire goes into the fusible link but two come out? Can I just connect both wires together to the fusible link "out" wire or is that a bad idea?

Thanks again.

Lemme start over . . . .

Reply #17 – August 14, 2011, 05:49:41 PM

Hey softouch, thanks for that diagram too!

Lemme start over . . . .

Reply #18 – August 14, 2011, 06:21:31 PM

You probably know you should disconnect the negative battery cable before you dig into this. To be safe.
You will have to take the insulation off the splices S131 AND S132.
Remove the old link and solder in the new one.
If you can't stretch the link to confirm it is blown, do another voltage check.

Put the neg battery cable back on and check for voltage at S132. There a couple of connectors C497 and C403 between the link and the alternator.
Don't forget to disconnect the neg battery cable again.

The EVTM says C497 is a gray 6 terminal on the LH fender apr0n.
C403 is a black 4 terminal on the LH fender apr0n below the washer reservoir.

Lemme start over . . . .

Reply #19 – August 14, 2011, 06:46:08 PM

Thanks for the tip; I've been disconnecting the negative cable but it never hurts to make sure.

I don't think I really understood how fusable links worked. I cut out the insulated block and when I took it apart, I got worried that the fuse link must not have been the problem because everything looked good inside. But then when I tested for voltage at the relay-side wire I had just cut, I got nothing. But if I probed up the wire further I could get 12 volts. That's when I realized that the insulated block, itself, isn't really the fusible link. It's the WIRE above it. I guess that's why all the replacement fusible links have a ring connector that starts over all the way back at the relay. Also, if I had been trying to stretch the wire closer to the solenoid instead of right at the rubber/plastic block, I probably could have done it. So definitely looking like this is the problem. Unfortunately, O'Reilly and Advance don't have a replacement in stock and NAPA, which does, is closed for the day. Guess I will have to finish up tomorrow . . . .

Probably that also means that I could have left the plastic/rubber block, cut the wire just above it, and then I would only have to connect one wire to another instead of 1 wire to 2 wires. Live and learn I guess.

Lemme start over . . . .

Reply #20 – August 15, 2011, 01:22:28 AM

*Shrug* I just replaced it all with a single 4Ga going to a 130A fuse when I converted over to a 3G style, so I never had a problem with fusible links.

I hope you got it all figured out and can start enjoying your car soon!

Lemme start over . . . .

Reply #21 – August 15, 2011, 06:30:09 AM

http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/001-50.jpg

You can use one of these in place of the FUSE LINK. Or a MAXI fuse holder and a maxi fuse. They come with pigtails. The reason fuse links have those blobs on them is because real fuse links cant be soldered. They have to be CRIMPED. Some of the fuse link makers just use THIN WIRE. But the OEM stuff cant be soldered. So they are crimped. As a test you can run a #8 wire from the heavy charge leads BK/O on the alternator to the + side of the battery and start the car and check the battery voltage for charge rate. Or find Fuse link A and repair it. Good luck and make all connections good and solder them. Other than the FUSE link which has to be crimped. I personally do not use any crimp connectors. I use non insulated connectors and solder THEM. Good luck

Lemme start over . . . .

Reply #22 – August 15, 2011, 09:14:27 PM

Well I'm not proud of it, but after replacing the alternator connector plug (which was probably fine), the regulator connector plug (which was also probably fine) and now the fusible link, I have crimped connectors all over the place, including a goofy 3-way crimped connector I picked up today at NAPA for the fusible link. And not only are they probably not durable, they are also just plain ugly.

But the good news is it works (at least for now).

Lemme start over . . . .

Reply #23 – August 15, 2011, 10:37:30 PM

Good at least it is charging now. I guess someone reversed jumped the car and blew the FUSE LINKS. Well when you have time you can clean it UP . I am glad it is now working. Good Job