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Topic: manually roll down pwr window (Read 1376 times) previous topic - next topic

manually roll down pwr window

I am gutting my donor door so I can get it ready for bodywork and paint. I need to lower the window to remove it and the trim, but it is power and the harness is all cut up. Is there a way to crank it down, take out a bolt, or do I really have to get a battery and rig it to roll down?
1988 T-Bird LX- Awaiting HO build, Monster "Eat My Shift" AOD rated 550Hp. BBK ceramic shorties, Jegs mustang (catless) H-Pipe. mustang catback modified axle back for tbird, 94 17" Cobra wheels, 98 'Stang GT 8.8 Traction-lock

manually roll down pwr window

Reply #1
why cant you just remove the motor then manually lower it.

never tried it but it seems like the right thing to do.

manually roll down pwr window

Reply #2
Quote from: jcassity;344473
why cant you just remove the motor then manually lower it.

never tried it but it seems like the right thing to do.

 yes, that will work. unbolt the motor then use your hands to raise and lower it. careful not to have your hands or fingers in the door itself when you do it. lots of moving  in there.... Ask me how I know
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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manually roll down pwr window

Reply #3
yea, you can bind up the moon gear easy enough as a temp safety.

manually roll down pwr window

Reply #4
by unbolt the motor, that involves drilling the rivets out? Then with it lose I will be able to wiggle the track down to remove the window?
1988 T-Bird LX- Awaiting HO build, Monster "Eat My Shift" AOD rated 550Hp. BBK ceramic shorties, Jegs mustang (catless) H-Pipe. mustang catback modified axle back for tbird, 94 17" Cobra wheels, 98 'Stang GT 8.8 Traction-lock

manually roll down pwr window

Reply #5
There should be 3 bolts holding it on... Yours should look like the one on the right
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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manually roll down pwr window

Reply #6
If the motor has never been removed before, you will have to drill access holes to get to the mounting bolts. There are dimple spots where you drill ¾" holes.

manually roll down pwr window

Reply #7
Quote from: softtouch;344885
If the motor has never been removed before, you will have to drill access holes to get to the mounting bolts. There are dimple spots where you drill ¾" holes.

I thought that was only for the '83-'86's??
FOXLESS!!

1994 Lincoln Mark VIII


 

manually roll down pwr window

Reply #8
I don't remember having a problem taking my motors out of the 87...
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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