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Topic: Bad Booster or Master Cylinder? Both??? (Read 1504 times) previous topic - next topic

Bad Booster or Master Cylinder? Both???

Hey all,

This is for my 1987 Mustang GT, and the brakes are STOCK. I replaced the pads, rotors, shoes and machined the drums to get this Mustang braking decently again. Problem is that:

[LIST=1]
  • The booster makes an occasional "whooshing" sound when I depress it.
  • Pedal is still mushy, even after multiple brake bleeding.
  • Pedal will sometimes get firm, sometimes cycling the pedal will make that happen.

Bad Booster or Master Cylinder?  Or Both??? TIA:bowdown:
pro-five-oh

88 Cougar XR-7...5.0HO, T-56, and much more                             
85 Thunderbird 30th...#2471, 29k, all original and might actually stay that way

Bad Booster or Master Cylinder? Both???

Reply #1
What happens if You disconnect the Booster and plug the vac line? 

Pedal should be hard as a rock but brake evenly and consistently

If it still does funny things, then I would suspect your master. Sounds like a py booster to me though.

Bad Booster or Master Cylinder? Both???

Reply #2
well the master is $10, and has to be removed to get to the brake boster, and you can get to in with basic tools in 5 minutes or less. I would start by swaping out the master.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Bad Booster or Master Cylinder? Both???

Reply #3
When I did my booster.  I just unbolted the master and moved it out of the way.  Didn't even have to disconnect the hard lines. I had no idea they were only $10.

Bad Booster or Master Cylinder? Both???

Reply #4
Quote from: danzajax;293912
What happens if You disconnect the Booster and plug the vac line? 

Pedal should be hard as a rock but brake evenly and consistently

If it still does funny things, then I would suspect your master. Sounds like a py booster to me though.


Good idea, I'll block off the vac line and see how it feels.
pro-five-oh

88 Cougar XR-7...5.0HO, T-56, and much more                             
85 Thunderbird 30th...#2471, 29k, all original and might actually stay that way

Bad Booster or Master Cylinder? Both???

Reply #5
hmm,prices did go up on them. around $30 without the $13 core. Last one I did was around $20 about 6 years ago.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Bad Booster or Master Cylinder? Both???

Reply #6
I really hated the job of replacing the booster, almost as bad as the stat.

I found the best was was just to remove the seat first to give you more room to lay down.  That and some very long extensions with swivel sockets helped.  Seems like the brake switch and clip was not fun.

Good luck,

TED

Bad Booster or Master Cylinder? Both???

Reply #7
Agreed.  Removing the booster blows.  I had to do it twice because I got my replacement from the junkyard...in 100* heat.

 

Bad Booster or Master Cylinder? Both???

Reply #8
Bought a reman booster, seems like that is the problem.  Wish me luck when I tear into it!
pro-five-oh

88 Cougar XR-7...5.0HO, T-56, and much more                             
85 Thunderbird 30th...#2471, 29k, all original and might actually stay that way