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Topic: Strut Removal (Read 1583 times) previous topic - next topic

Strut Removal

Hello,

I'm working on removing/replacing my front struts ('87 Cougar LS).  I'm having a problem getting the top nut off the strut.  How do you keep the strut shaft from turning while getting the nut to break loose?  There's that large slot in the top of the strut, however, I've not been able to get anything to fit in tight to get any leverage.

Is there some specialty tool I can rent, perhaps?  I've tried to hold the strut rod from the underside, but I can't get a grip on that super shiny smooth shaft! 

Any help/tips is greatly appreciated!

TIA

Greg
'87 Cougar LS V6 (stock) Daily Driver
'06 Lincoln LS V8
'12 F-150 SCrew FX4 5.0L
'80 Thunderbird V8 (mild 304) [sold to friend]

Strut Removal

Reply #1 –
The way I got them off was with an impact gun, I couldnt get it off any other way. If you dont have a compressor, then maybe you could grip the shaft underneath with a vise grip or something ??

Dont know how exactly how youre supposed to do it though?
1985 Thunderbird TC
2.3l .03 over,Ported and polished Head and E6 Manifold, LA3, T3/T4 Hybrid Turbo, Stinger FMIC, Forge BOV, Full 3" Exhaust, Essy Timing Gears & UDP's, BBK 255lph Fuel Pump, Kirban AFPR, Kirban Short Shifter, K&N Cone, Forced4 VC Vent Kit, PA Performance 3g Alternator, Energy Suspension Bushings throughout, CHE LCA's, SFC's [/LEFT]

Strut Removal

Reply #2 –
W/O air tools, it's  near impossible to get them loose.

For a time I was able to use a large square-shafted blade screwdriver that I was able to use a small wrench to hold for some leverage against  loosening the top nut.  It was still a bitch to get loose.
You're not going to get much of anything to grip the smooth, hardened strut shaft from below either.

Worse case, you take the strut out with the upper strut mount still attached and take it someplace and have them zip the struts off/on  for you. Just be sure to mark the location of the upper mount in the slots to avoid getting your camber alignment too out of whack.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon-  '81 Granada GL 2dr

Strut Removal

Reply #3 –
Thanks, guys.  I was figuring that I may need to try an impact wrench...unfortunately, I just had one rented for the lower mounting bolts, and didn't think to use it on the top nuts! :mad:  At least it's not an expensive rental...
'87 Cougar LS V6 (stock) Daily Driver
'06 Lincoln LS V8
'12 F-150 SCrew FX4 5.0L
'80 Thunderbird V8 (mild 304) [sold to friend]

Strut Removal

Reply #4 –
Simple answer...hacksaw...right down the top of the shaft...cuts the nut in half(from the top) and a tap with a hammer finishes it off...easier than you'd think and free if you have a hack saw floating around.

good luck,

Don
Project 3G: Grandpa Grocery Getter-'85 Crown Vic LTD 2-door, 351W with heavily ported/polished GT40 heads, heavily ported/polished Typhoon Power Plus upper & lower intake, Comp Cams 265DEH retarded 1*, FAST EZ-EFI, HD T5, 8.8" 3.73 trac lock with extra clutches, 3G alt. swap, '99 CVPI front brakes, '09 CVPI rear disc brakes, '00 CVPI booster&m/c + wilwood adj prop valve.

Parted & Gone-'88 T-bird Sport, 351W swap, ported GT40 heads

Strut Removal

Reply #5 –
All I did on mine was release the clamp holding the strut boot and let it slide down to expose the piston shaft. Then I clamped a big pair of vice grips on it, and was able to zip the nut off no problem.
Matt
1984 Thunderbird - 89 302 HO, GT40 heads w/ Trick Flow springs, E303 cam, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake and 600 cfm 4bbl, Mustang headers, Jegs o/r H pipe, Dynomax lers, Mustang AOD and shifter, Mustang 8.8 w/ 3.73s, 3G alternator, Mustang front and rear sway bars, KYB SN-95 front struts and shocks, and 11" front brakes.

1988 Mustang GT - GT40 heads, Explorer intake, 70mm throttle body, 70mm MAF, Crane 1.7 rrs, E303 cam, Kirban Kwik shifter w/ Pro 5.0 deluxe handle, aluminum clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster, o/r h pipe, Dynomax lers, 3G alternator, aluminum radiator, and 3.27 gears.
 
1986 Cougar 5.0, 1989 Mark VII LSC 5 speed, 1980 Mercury Zephyr 4 door (sold)

Strut Removal

Reply #6 –
Quote from: 5.0 bird;236893
All I did on mine was release the clamp holding the strut boot and let it slide down to expose the piston shaft. Then I clamped a big pair of vice grips on it, and was able to zip the nut off no problem.


X2.I've done it that way with my other two Birds.The Sport is next.I may just break out the new air compressor and tools .I've had them since last year (June) and still haven't had them out of the boxes.LOL.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Strut Removal

Reply #7 –
I just did this last week. I didn't really think about it 'cause I got power tools. I just stuck the air-ratchet on the nut and put a little side pressure on strut to get some friction between the shaft and mount and held the trigger 'till the nut came off - lol.
11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.

Strut Removal

Reply #8 –
I'll be replacing mine as soon as i get new strut mounts.Mine suck.Loose and shaky.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..
 

Strut Removal

Reply #9 –
You may have noticed the adjustable strut chart I made. I ended up getting Strange adjustable struts in front (and shocks in back.) I got the Monroe strut mounts from Rock Auto & everything went together nicely (well, after I returned the SN95 struts I accidentally bought for the Fox versions - doh!). The struts work nice on the "5" setting (shocks too) and they worked even better than the OEM stuff for drag racing when set soft - even though I'm using the stiffer Mach1 springs all around. I'm pretty psyched how it all worked out.
11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.