Skip to main content
Topic: Any ideas how much $$ to rip apart my digi-dash? (Read 1683 times) previous topic - next topic

Any ideas how much $$ to rip apart my digi-dash?

*sigh* I tried it myself today, the right most screen just went out yesterday. During the day you can barely see it, but at night, nope. Some searching here showed there are bulbs behind it so one must have burned out. I was able to BARELY see behind the unit, from the drivers side of the car, there isnt much movement because of that stupid cable for the gear indicator. I got frustrated because of the mess and how tight of a fit everything was, and EVERYTHING is plastic and feels kinda cheap and weak and I was deathly afraid if breaking something. I couldnt even imagine taking apart the indicator. The spring in there was enough, those are like a huge STOP sign to me. With my luck theyre impossible to get back in. So I put it all back together, fortunately everything is still okay.
 
I could pull back the black face of it a little, and see the three white screen units. But looking on the back there was only a large ribbon computer wire thing going across it, I couldnt see any way to open it up or anything. How are you supposed to get to the bulbs for the screen backlights!!?? I was pretty livid today. Nope I dont get the bad waterpump or a leaky intake gasket, I get the LIGHT bulb that's shoved way in there. I wish they had LEDs 20 years ago, wouldnt have this problem. (Although just to be even more of an S.O.B., my '38 Buick instrumentation lights still work!!!!!)
 
Any ideas how much I'd pay for this? Yeah alright go ahead, bring on the "Try again you cooch" comments I can take it. I dunno everything seems so fragile, Im worried I'll snap something.
 
How hard is it to adapt LEDs? If I gave them to the shop would they be able to get 'em in?
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane

Any ideas how much $$ to rip apart my digi-dash?

Reply #1
1.5 hours. any more than that they are ripping you off. You can easily do it your self. The plastic is brittle and it may break, but better for you to do it, then some jack leg who doesn't care. Just go easy when you tighten the dash surround bezel. Remember looser is always better.
 As far as replacing the bulbs and removing the indicator, I know it will be a little intimidating at 1st, but after you finish if you ever have to do it again it will be easy. You will finish in 45min.
 To remove the indicator there is a little wire/cable going through a white plastic sheathing. It is held to the steering column by one 7/32th's bolt. remove that bolt and unhook the loop on that wire/cable from the shift lever. When you get the dash bezel surround off the indicator will come out when you unbolt the cluster. The are 2 or 3 connectors on the back side of the cluster you will have to remove. Just tilt the cluster up or down and reach your hand back their. Once the cluster is out the little bulbs just twist out. Most of those mini haogen bulbs come with the little housing on them and that is what you should use. Using the bulbs in the old housings will work but it can cause connection problems. Try not to get oil from your fingers on the bulbs as they get hot and can burn out earlier. After you are done you will be happy, almost as much as when you got your car running right after the ho conversion. It's easy, don't pay someone.
p.s. the bolt for the indictor cable is under the dash. Putting the shifter in low gear will help you unhook it from the shift lever
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]88 t-bird: 5.0ho, gt40y, crane 2031, fms 1.7, paxton@5#, aod wide ratio, tci stall, performer rpm upper, 70mm bbk, pro m 60, 42#s, 3.73 7.5" posi, jba shorties, borla, upr x. 13.4 @ 104mph. cbaza, moates, tuned by decipha

Any ideas how much $$ to rip apart my digi-dash?

Reply #2
Just to add to t.birdsc's post: The halogen bulbs are very expensive and can be hard to find, but you can use normal 194 bulbs. You might lose a bit of brightness, but I've never noticed any problems with any of the several digital dashes I've used 194's in. Also, once the cluster is out, replace ALL of the bulbs. They're all 20 years old now, so they're all ready to burn out.

Once the cluster is out it'd be a good time to do the W2 mod, as well...
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Any ideas how much $$ to rip apart my digi-dash?

Reply #3
Well, if getting the dash out is intimidating, the 85+ mod may be too much :D It's not that bad though...

Yeah, I have replaced all of my bulbs with 194's - I can't tell the difference either. Once you get the technique, you will be able to pop the dash out in 10 min. I've had mine out no less than half a dozen times in the past few years...
11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.

Any ideas how much $$ to rip apart my digi-dash?

Reply #4
well you know it didnt take me that long to get to where I did actually, maybe 20 minutes, I just felt uncomfortable with it all. Then again it went back together fine and I evidently didn't mess anything up.
 
I thought about/noticed something last night. http://www.auctiva.com/hostedimages/showimage.aspx?gid=362878&ppid=1122&image=52378201&images=52378198,52378201&formats=0,0&format=0
 
Thats the picture of a digidash thats always on ebay, looked at it and saw those red bulb units up top. I dont think there are any message lights or anything else at the top of the dash, so are those the ones for the screens? If they are I'm going to have to whack my head against the wall a few times. The one place I didnt think to check.
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane

Any ideas how much $$ to rip apart my digi-dash?

Reply #5
Yep, those are the ones.
11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.

Any ideas how much $$ to rip apart my digi-dash?

Reply #6
I think they are #194 blubs i just got them changed at my car audio place i go when i was adding some speakers in for FREE and i got 1 more of them replaced last week when i got my gauge bezel put in. It should take 15-30 mins just make sure you got the right blubs for what you need the 194s are just the main blubs for it or are the only ones i ever have to change out.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]


http://www.cardomain.com/id/Carpimp1987
1987 T-Bird AEROBIRD-GT had many many mods but is now totaled and is the car that made me want to start customizing everything all over again.
1988 T-Bird 5.0 HO DD/Sleeper/next project car :birdsmily:
1988 Cougar XR7 5.0 HO Vortech Supercharged being bulit right now :cougarsmily:


 

Yay my I can see my dash again!!!! lol

Reply #7
oh yes. came out REAL easy this time, with the SIMPLE disconnection of the cable from the column, and the fact that i happened to notice the OTHER 2 inch wide plug on the right side of the cluster. totally forgot about that last time. Ill bet it was that and not the indicator cable that was holding it! pffft.....whatever
 
couldnt find 194s at advance auto!!!! :hick:  but i found these ones that said european bulbs, "w5w" or something and they looked exactly the same and sure enough they fit in the sockets. this thing is BRIGHT now!!!! i found that there were like 2 bulbs on total out of the six, that were not burned out. how I ever saw my speed or fuel level is a miracle!
 
I = happy. Thanks guys as always, now Im goin' out in the garage (picked the best day right 90 and humid!!!) to do the cruise control system tests, see whats dead in there.
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane