HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! *FIXED*, but now new problems/questions Reply #15 – March 15, 2007, 03:00:13 PM I know this is an old topic, But I'm preping an 8.8 for my bird now and had the same thing happen. Removed the small pin and it felt just fine coming out (used a box end wrench about 3" long), and yet when it came out of the hole the "pin" part of it is still in there.I REALLY dident want to pull the whole mess apart. I'm just doing an axel swap. Anybody have any NEW info on a simple way to remove this? Quote Selected
HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! *FIXED*, but now new problems/questions Reply #16 – March 15, 2007, 03:02:37 PM opps.. this isen't that old of a topic.. I read Thunder chickens join date (oct 2004) instead of the last post date (3-13-07) Noobs!!sorry Quote Selected
HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! *FIXED*, but now new problems/questions Reply #17 – March 15, 2007, 07:24:49 PM I tried drilling it for using an easy out, but the bolt is harder than my drill bits. I ended up beating the pin out and breaking the bolt (as you can see in the above pics the bolt ended up in four pieces). It really wasn't hard, but it was time consuming. One whack ain't gonna do it... Quote Selected
HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! *FIXED*, but now new problems/questions Reply #18 – March 15, 2007, 08:25:37 PM No it's not easy as evereyone says's.On the 7.5 I beat it out the carrier.But 8.8 is beeffer! so beat on. Quote Selected
HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! *FIXED*, but now new problems/questions Reply #19 – March 19, 2007, 07:01:37 PM you'll need a bit made with Cobalt steel or Tungsten Carbide an HSS bit. The bit should have a large point angle too. Finally a spotting bit is a little easier to start but is no substitute for the right punch to get a center point. If the break wasn't clean then drilling the top of the pin left inside to make the surface level helps starting a center point.Always let the drill and the bit do the work, excessive pressure breaks bits. Always use the right lubricant and keep swarf from collecting on the bit clogging it up. :hick: I don't know what SEARS policy is on bits I'm sure someone else here can tell you, but if you break their hand tools they replace them. Just my thoughts... On the other hand Mechanics have hammers for a reason... :D Quote Selected
HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! *FIXED*, but now new problems/questions Reply #20 – March 23, 2007, 11:24:06 PM Well, I got it all back together today. I found a few things out:1) The 7.5 pin is not the same as the 8.8. It's the same diameter but about 1" shorter. Might be because the 7.5 was open and the 8.8 is traction-lock, though2) When I took the old clutches out, one of them on the ring gear side was missing both tabs. You could see that they had broken off, but there's no sign of the broken pieces inside the rear end housing. I'm guessing that the previous owner must have removed 'em when they replaced the wheel bearings before3) The wheel bearings were replaced before. The ones that were in the axle were "axle savers" - they were offset to allow the rollers to wear on a new spot on the axle. They were actually lubed with grease and had a seal on the inside AND outside (like the Dana 30 in my old Cherokee), so rear end lube didn't get into 'em.4) The axles in my 7.5 were mint, so I used 'em. Aside from the ABS reluctor ring they were identical to the TC axles. The 7.5 open diff almost looks cute compared to the 8.8 traction lock - everything is so tiny!5) Ford friction modifier additive is quite possibly the single smelliest substance on the planet. It smells like the piss of a thousand tom cats. My garage will probably stink for months... Quote Selected
HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! *FIXED*, but now new problems/questions Reply #21 – March 26, 2007, 01:08:31 AM So whats the status on your project Thunder? I'm still waiting on that paint I ordered on the 11th that got sent to the wrong state. Quote Selected
HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! *FIXED*, but now new problems/questions Reply #22 – March 26, 2007, 09:31:25 AM Mine hasn't changed much - the TC rear end is still sitting on jack stands ready to be installed, the car is on jack stands with a half taken apart 7.5 under it. I was gonna do the actual rear end swap yesterday, but ended up having to run a bunch of errands instead. Today and tomorrow I've got to work. I might get a start on the swap tomorrow evening. I'll still need a bunch of stuff to make the swap complete (master cylinder, prop valve, brake cables) but at least the car will roll again... Quote Selected
HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! *FIXED*, but now new problems/questions Reply #23 – March 28, 2007, 12:46:05 AM Mines sitting about the same way on jackstands. I canceled the Por-15 I ordered on the 11th thats still hasent gotten delivered and reordered elseware, should be here the 4th. I don't want to assemble the breaks until after I paint them so I'm on hold till then. Not to mention to busy even if I did have the paint.will be a week or two. Quote Selected
HELP! Broken diff pin bolt! *FIXED*, but now new problems/questions Reply #24 – April 09, 2007, 11:28:06 AM You need to be easy with carbide drill bits since they break easy. Light pressure and they will do all the work for you. Quote Selected