Under the glovebox, there is a black realy that clicks when you turn the key to start. The #'s on it are DL27R? with a biger D under that and it's black. First off what it it and what would make it click. Also I have another black realy that looks the same but it's #'s are OG24L with a bigger c under that. Are they the same and if not what is the other one? Sorry guys but I need help with this one
be it the EEC power relay?
:shrug:
Not sure, I thought that one was brown?
If it was replaced by an aftermarket one, it could be any color (black/grey). It's supposed to click....it's sending power to the ECU and energizing the fuel pump relay.
Ok, so why isn't it turning over. I have radio, windows, turn signals and the " click ". Any idea's?
There is only one relay you need to pick to make it turn over, the starter solenoid.
Pull the small wire off the solenoid (it just slides right off). Jumper from battery + to the solenoid terminal you pulled the wire off of.
This should pick the solenoid and turn on the starter motor.
If that works you need to find out why turning the ignition switch to start is not getting +12 volts to the solenoid.
The circuit is: Battery +, Fuse link C (16gauge orange), Ignition switch (in the start position), Neutral Safety Switch, Starter Solenoid. There are four connectors in the circuit.
The neutral safety switch and backup light switch are on the left side of the transmission. They share the same cable connector.
Do the backup lights work?
Brake lights and turnsignals. Also the jumper is on the + side of the starter relay right? What wire are we talking about on the s.r.? Yellow, r/l. blue, one that goes to the starter, Blue fuse link?? I know I sound retarted but I realy do wana learn this. I just need someone to hold my hand through it so I can learn as I'm doing it. Sorry to be such a PITA guys
Big red wire from battery + goes to one solenoid terminal. Held on there with several other wires with a nut.
Big black wire held on with a nut goes to the starter motor.
Two small wires with a push-on type connector. Pull this connector off the solinoid. Jumper from battery + to the terminal the small wires were on.
Does it crank?
It will start if you jump the wires and put alittle gas in the T.b. Why when you turn the key though do you only get windows, radio and a click though?? I just put a new battery, solonid in it, so what gives? Any idea's?
When you turn your fuel pump to 'on' can you hear the fuel pump prime?
Nope, nothing. A freind told me I " have to jump it to a constant hot to get it to work". Why it doesn't work is unknown.
So now we've got 3 questions in this post...
1 - What's that relay under the dash that goes "click"?
Rather than describing the relays, give us the colors of the wires in the plugs.
2 - Why doesn't the starter spin when I turn the key?
If it spins when you apply power from the battery's (+) terminal to the little terminal on the solenoid (likely marked "s") then the solenoid is okay. Apparently it is, as you started it with gas down the throat.
Next thing to check would be for power coming out of the little wire (the rubber-hooded one you just pulled off the "s" terminal) when the key is turned to "start".
If there's no power there, make sure the trans is in park or neutral, otherwise the "neutral safety switch" cuts off power to that wire.
3 - Why doesn't the fuel pump buzz with the key at "on"?
Actually, for that year I think there's 2 pumps, one low-pressure in the tank and one high-pressure on the frame.
Find the EEC test plug under the hood. Is there a tan/light-green wire at one of the terminals? If so, turn the key to "on" and use a piece of wire to ground that wire to something nearby. The pump(s) should run continuously.
If they don't run, either the fuel pump relay is bad, the inertia switch has been tripped by a rear-ender or the trunk being slammed, the fusible link to the relay is blown, or something is unplugged or corroded.
I'll go get the colors when it stop raining.
OK, the neutral safety switch must be cutting power because no power to the r/l.b. wire in any gear. Also nothing on the fuel pups when ran to a ground.
Turn the ignition switch to Run. Shift the trans. to reverse. Do the back-up lights come on? The neutral safety switch and the back-up light switch share the same cable connector. The connector is on the driver's side of the cross member that supports the rear of the transmission.
The only under the hood connector for the R/LB wire is behind the driver's side headlight. It should be a brown six terminal connector.
Have you looked at the ignition switch to see if it is fried?
Nope, no back-up lights. Flashers / turn signals work though. Could that be whats causing it to not work correctly, the 6 pin connector?
The six pin connector behind the headlight only has the R/LB wire to the starter solenoid.
The connector on the transmission crossmember is a four terminal connector.
The four wires at the transmission connector are:
1. R/LB from the ignition switch Start position.
2. W/PK D From the neutral safety switch. (Trans must be in Park or Neutral)
3. P/O H From the ignition switch Run Position.
4. BK/PK From the back-up light switch. (Trans must be in Reverse)
A small probe that will slide into these connectors alongside the wire is best for this kind of trouble shooting. You may have to fabricate something.
Wire circut tester? Or test light if you will
I can't tell you what the problem is. I can only try to help you find it.
Can I use a test light as a probe?
I use a multimeter. DC Volts function if looking for the voltage from the ignition switch. A test light can be used.
Do you have any experience using a meter?
Yes if it small enough to get into the connectors.
I don't have a Multimeter at the moment but I do know how to use one. Just not very well. What exactly should I be checking? If there is power with the key in run in p/n/r? And power to the 6 pin junction?
If you can't answer that question yourself with what I have given you then I can't help you. I am not able to communicate well enough with you to make myself understood.
I know what you wrote but what are you telling me to do? Do I put it into the gear it says and check for power. I know your doing you best to help me but I'm doing my best ot learn also.
Anyone care to tey to help a poor retard with wiring problems???
No one is going to magically be able to fix this over the internet. You're going to have to find some wiring diagrams and dig into it. You can get a simple VOM cheap... spend a couple bucks. softtouch has given you alot of info to work with.
I don't have a scanner any more, so I can't send you any wiring schematics.
Have you even crawled under the car to make sure the plug for the NSS is even plugged in? Are all the fuses in the fuse panel good? Do you have power at the fuel pump relay in the trunk when the key is in run? Does that relay even click?
OK, I didn't mean to turn this into another flame-fest on me. I did crawl under it and it was tight in it's place. All the fuses were good except the radio which I fixed. I also gotthe seats, mirrors, and lights to work by pulling the radio out and finding a loose wire. Re connect it and there you go. The dash realy clicks but I'm not sure about the trunk relay. I'll do that after school tomorow. Just to say it again thanks to everyone for trying to help me with this and dealing with my low level of wiring knowlage.
Well if the trunk one does not click, that's why the pumps do not run. You then need to see if it is getting power to energize and power to run the pump.
You also need to figure out why the little wire at the solenoid has no power when you turn the key to start.
I do that by doing this from softtouch or do I do something different. I have a freind helping me with the starting thing but what about the pumps?
The six pin connector behind the headlight only has the R/LB wire to the starter solenoid.
The connector on the transmission crossmember is a four terminal connector.
The four wires at the transmission connector are:
1. R/LB from the ignition switch Start position.
2. W/PK D From the neutral safety switch. (Trans must be in Park or Neutral)
3. P/O H From the ignition switch Run Position.
4. BK/PK From the back-up light switch. (Trans must be in Reverse)
A small probe that will slide into these connectors alongside the wire is best for this kind of trouble shooting. You may have to fabricate something.
This is for a Mustang....but the start/ignition stuff should help.....
http://www.oldweakandpathetic.com/merkerguitars/misccarstuff/84electricalmanual.pdf
Thanks chuck, I'll get a jump on it as soon as I get home today. I'll try to keep you all posted
mike one of these days when i get done with work on fri ill have to load the truck up with all my tools and come ehlp ya out with the car. cuz its tough not looking at it to know what is actually wrong with it. But ill dig into my wiring diagram to maybe see what the issue could be. and yes keep us updated bro.