Hey all,
The new engine in the cougar still runs warmer than i would like it to. it doesn't over heat but will get up to the hight side of the R in NORM. At most it gets to the M. I want to time the engine because I think it's too advanced but I'm not sure of the exact timing procedure on these cars. I've always had my mechanic do it, but since i now have access to a timing light I want to time it.
I've put in a new thermostat, radiator, water pump, hoses, belts and intake gaskets put on the car and it still seems to run warm. The will warm up in litteraly a mile or less than 10 minutes of idling My mechanic changed the intake gaskets and is positive the head gaskets aren't blown. Any ideas on this subject will be entertained as well.
tc
I found this on Autozone.com com. Is it correct?
tc
For your 1986 Mercury Cougar:
Timing Specification 10 Degrees
BEFORE TOP DEAD CENTER
*BASE TIMING SPECIFICATION
*SET AT WARM IDLE SPEED (ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED -
NOT ADJUSTABLE)
*DISCONNECT SINGLE WIRE SPOUT CONNECTOR AT IGNITION
MODULE
*TRANSMISSION IN DRIVE (PARKING BRAKE ENGAGED)
*ALL ACCESSORIES OFF
The autozone stuff is all from Chilton's so it's a safe bet to say yes. The chilton manuals are great for procedures. They do have mistakes in the spec department.
Have you checked to see if the radiator is plugged up. I just went through this on one of my 88 TC. Liked to run omn the warm side and slowly crept higher at highway speeds. Radiator had stalagtites hanging from the tubes. New radiator and all is good
:dunno: didja put the thermostat in backwards?
As stated above it has a new radiator in it.
Black Jack -- Yea i double checked that. it was in there right.
tc
Ok here's an update. The couar decided to stay warm but after it would shut it off and turn it back on it would over heat if the ac was on. It did this on a trip to the parts store for a radiator for my truck. When i got home both hoses were hot but there was no pressure. The next day i took it out for a drive and it had pressure but the lower hose was cold. I sqeezed it a few times thinking it had an air bubble in it. It still had the same problem. 3 days later i drove it around down and now it doesn't do it. I'm assuming it was air.
So why does the car still run warm? My theory's are
1. car is running lean
2. Timing is off so when the ac turns on the load makes the engine work harder there for run warmer
3. I put bausch (sp) spark plugs in for the first time and not auto lite. Any one have problems with these?
4. STill some air that I can't for some dumb ass reason get out
5. A combination of the above.
Thanks for the help guys.
tc
Jack the front of the car up, take the rad/cap off and idle the car for a while til car reaches operating temp you should see by looking into the rad when the t-state opens water level go down and water circulate that show the t-sate is opening properly and water pump is pumping. Then rev it a little to get the air out and top it off w/coolant.
Hope that works.
You could also park the car on a hill with the nose pointed upward. Also are you sure that you don't have a bad raditator cap or just a bad fan clutch? If the cap won't hold pressure then it would over heat. The pressure makes the coolant harder to boil. Also the clutch for the fan might not be working right. You should be able to spin the fan by hand with the motor off. It sholdn't spin very far. Also the a/c being on would make it hotter any way. Maybe another sign that the fan clutch isn't fully working right. Hope you get this figured out.
You did set the timing with the SPOUT disconnected correct?
How the car feel as far as power goes? I know it's a 3.8, but is it sluggish?
Have you tried a cooling system flush? Perhaps there's some in the engine coolant passages?
Your plugs are not the issue.
If the fan spins 1.5 turns or more it's shot, replace the fan clutch.
new clutch, new radiator, new cap, new thermostat. All tested and in working order.
I was thinking of flushing it but everything comes out clean. I did hook it up to a garden hose a while back and everything came out clean. It ahs been running better but warmer than I would like.
I haven't timed it yet Chuck. What is the exact correct procedure? And yes it does seem somewaht sluggish. With the old engine, even with the bad cylinders i never noticed power loss with the ac on. With the new engine the way it is now i has a noticeable difference. Odly i'm getting 4 mile more per gallon. I'm using the same sensors an throttle body. as the old engine.
did it again on sunday night. Once i burped the system again it seems to be doing better. I did notice that even running the heater causes the temp gauge to go up. Niether running the ac or the heater used to do that to me in the old engine.
maybe your running on the lean side
Sorry, I didn't see you replied.
Get a timing light,pull the SPOUT connector and start the car. NOt sure what the base timing should be for a 3.8, so you'll need to check that. I imagine about 10* BTDC will work ok. If not at least that, turn off car, loosen dist hold-down bolt. Restart car. Turn dist until timing correct. Install SPOUT plug and recheck timing to make sure advance is working (timing should jump up about 20 degrees or so). SHut off car, tighten dist hold-down. If the timing is retarded, or the SPOUT is unplugged (which will retard ignition to base timing), the car will run warm.
Wow, okay never had that happen before....The temp sending unit is the same one as before?
Nope. New sending unit.
Chuck WTF is a spout connector? Never heard of this.
Thanks
tc
Off the TFI (ignition) module on the distributor there is a little jumper connector in one of the wires. Not sure of the wire color.
This wire is the signal from the ECU that controls the timing. You must disconnect it to set the base timing. If you set the timing with this jumper connected it will be WAY retarded. This can cause the car to run warm and feel sluggish.
oh yea. I think it's a yellow wire.
tc
Spout Connector: