My car is overheating all the time. I just put a recently rebuilt 5.0L HO in my cougar, I put a new thermostat in it, i put a new rad cap on it. Is it possible that i got a faulty thermostat. What are things could cause my car to overheat? Any info would help thanks.
Assuming the rad is good, too lean of a fuel/air mixture would overheat it. A vacuum leak might accomplish that. And you'd certainly want to make sure your pump and hoses are good, that you're not losing rad fluid. Oh and also if you're using the stock clutch fan check to make sure it's not slipping too much. If you spin it with your hand it shouldn't turn more than like a quarter or half or something, I don't quite remember. Hope that gives you something to look for.
You didn't short belt it the wrong way?
how hot? does the thermo open look to see if it flows in the rad.
It is also possible that the head gaskets were installed improperly or are the wrong type, and are blocking some of the coolant passages in the block. That would make the block heat up pretty quickly. ;)
How is the water pump?
Old thread, I know. But would a very lean air/fuel mixture cause the engine to overheat within a couple of minutes of sitting still or in a drive thru??
No sir. Very lean will cause higher combustion temps, but it would also run like .
Are you currently having issues?
Yeah, having issues. When I'm driving on the highway or interstate I'm running nice and cool. But when I stop at a light for an extended period of time or sit in a drive thru, the gauge will quickly moved to H. Mod list is below. When I took my car to ProDyno earlier this year, I was told I was running very lean and needs to be tuned.
If the car is fine on the highway or moving and overheats at idle or low speed driving the fan clutch is shot. Get a new one and your problem will be solved.
with cold motor
remove rad cap
start engine
does water flow?
if yes, tstat stuck open
if no, put cap back on
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remove belt
grasp fan and try to wobble it checking for play
if you have play, fan clutch is bad
if you have play, the water pump input shaft bushing is worn
if you have play the bottom and top of the water pump weep holes will have coolant
if no play put belt back on
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with cold motor and off
-loosen pet pen 15 valve at bottom pass side of rad and have a pan to catch fluid
-open up rad cap
if fluid flows quick and fast out the bottom then tighten pet pen 15 valve
if fluid does not flow fast then rad is partially clogged
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if you have climate control..... or if you dont have climate control.............
with climate control
-locate coolant temp sensor on the front left (driver side) of intake
-replace the sensor with a single wire slip on sensor type.
-install an aftermarket temp guage and run motor
-if temp guage does not show over heating then the problem is in the cluster.
without climate control
-install an aftermarket temp guage and connect to the single wire temp sensor
-if car does not over heat the problem is in your cluster
if car over heats, its confirmed there is a problem and your guage is correct.
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open hood of car
look at the fire wall below the heater core outlets
follow the fire wall downwards till you see a 1'' rubber hose sticking out of the fire wall
is there coolant down there at the hose
-if yes- blown heater core
-if no move on.
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do a comperssion test
Problem is, my fan clutch is brand new
i thought your clutch was fresh,, at least i assumed it was... may wanna look elsewhere
Everything in my cooling system is brand new except the radiator, hoses, and the fan itself. I'm beginning to believe it is the temp gauge sending unit giving a bad reading. When the needle was on H, I didn't hear anything boiling or going into the overflow so I don't think it's actually overheating. Possibly may need to flush the radiator out.
I bought a laser temp reader for $10 at harbor freight on day. If radiator is over 200° f you know you have a problem, if not, chuck it in the glove box and forget about it. My gauges always all raised the same amount, I have a picture somewhere if my guage in the red and a full tank of gas. I cycled the key off and back on and it was back to normal and 1/4 tank of gas. I fixed it with a new ignition switch pigtail
ok,,
so take the bottom steering column cover off
there will be a tiny GRAY wire which is a calibrated length. thats your resistance wire that feeds the cluster.
my son's 88 bird dash was acting up, we found this wire was hanging on barely.
Replaced temp gauge sending unit, didn't help. Maybe it's the radiator cap? I plan on checking the gray wire too.
Also installed a mechanical water temp gauge. I'll see how it reads.