The a/c in my car has supposedly been dead for 10 years so I'm not sure what all should be replaced to get it working again. I've tried jumping the clutch on the compressor and it doesn't engage, so I'm sure a new compressor with clutch is needed.
What is everything that will be needing replacing? Is the compressor HERE (http://"http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-87-88-FORD-THUNDERBIRD-5-0L-A-C-COMPRESSOR-PACKAGE_W0QQitemZ8069716749QQihZ019QQcategoryZ33543QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem") (shows up on ebay from time to time) the correct one? Obviously, it'll all need to be moved to r134 but I figure I can get the gauge and such needed for charging an a/c system and learn myself as I go (won't deal with the vacuum though, will just have a place do it if I can). I've never seen/read all that needs to be done to get one of these things up and running, with new seals and such, so as much help available is appreciated. All the a/c lines are metal, so they should all be fine reused, right?
I need a push in the right direction with this.
I'd get a new compressor w/clutch, accumulator, and liquid line.
I trust the Four Seizens and Ready Aire compressors as far as I can throw them. I buy my compressors from ackits.com I'd also trust a Visteon, Motorcraft or AC Delco compressor. Ready Aire / Four Seasons hoses are ok.
O-ring kit will run ~$10
Oil (I recommend BAV-100 Ester from ackits) will run $8.
Hoses will run ~$100-150
A compressor will run $167 from ackits. Acsource is also a good source for compressors.
While you're at it, you should flush out the condenser and evaporator with mineral spirits or something similar. Be sure to blow them out with lots of air after you're done flushing.
Regarding the e-bay ad...if you decide to go that route (I wouldn't), make sure the accumulator comes with a hose.
Reasoning:
You want to replace the accumulator because the desiccant inside is surely saturated. The liquid line replacement is to replace the integral orifice tube. If you're feeling gamey, just flush the liquid line both ways to try and clean the orifice tube screen. The line is only ~$25-35, so it is a small price for a large piece of mind.
How reliable are remanufactured units? Not sure whats all swapped out when they fix them. You said $167 from ackits, so I'm guessing reman works fine...but there's 2 different remans for the 5.0 also.
The "Hoses will run ~$100-150"...you mean the accumulator and hose, right? as for oil, you mean THIS STUFF? (http://"http://www.ackits.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AMA&Product_Code=41-50062-8")
I want to do this right so I'll follow your (and others') advice, as long as you guys have done it before.
The condensor and evaporator shouldn't ever need 'replacing', correct (since they're basically radiators)?
psst, I know you were on the board today. Want to purchase these things ;) In the list I have:
CP3012 FORD/MERCURY COMPLETE O-RING KIT 1981-2004
$8.47
41857MD ACcumULATOR/DRIER
$72.66
61438MD LIQUID LINE
$24.43
013301CP R/B COMP W/CL 6P148A 5 EAR MOUNT 6GR
$167.24
41-50062-8 BAV Auto 100 (8 Ounce Bottle)
$4.00
Total: $276.80
Anything else or should that sum it up? Starting next weekend, I have a garage again to work in.
Sorry, I was le tired / breaking stuff on my Cougar
That looks like a pretty complete list. I would add some nylog (http://"http://www.ackits.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AMA&Product_Code=RT201B"). It is another ~$10, but it is an excellent sealant. You put it on o-rings instead of refrigerant oil. It will lower your chances of having a leak when you assemble everything.
Also, add another bottle of oil...the system requires 10oz.
Let me know how it goes.
PS
Autoacforum has a bunch of tips/tricks here (http://"http://www.autoacforum.com/categories.cfm?catid=20")
Thanks, I really appreciate it. It'll be an interesting thing to repair.
Nylog O-Ring Lubrication 1 $8.21 $8.21
BAV Auto 100 (8 Ounce Bottle) 2 $4.00 $8.00
R/B COMP W/CL 6P148A 5 EAR MOUNT 6GR 1 $167.24 $167.24
FORD/MERCURY COMPLETE O-RING KIT 1981-2004 1 $8.47 $8.47
ACcumULATOR/DRIER 1 $72.66 $72.66
LIQUID LINE 1 $24.43 $24.43
Make sure that what's in the picture isn't what you're getting. That picture is of a 4.6L compressor w/ an 80's 5.0L clutch. I'm sure that's just a generic picture, but you never know, this is ebay . . .
Oh, you're talking about the ebay one. Ignoring that altogether. They do use that picture for all their compressors though.
That whole list is probably a little overboard unless you want to be for 100% sure and have that much money to spend. On my car we replaced the compressors because it was leaking like a siv. Otherwise new o rings and esther oil. Esther oil is made to work with residue from r12 systems. (At least that's what the can says). I had that done 2 years ago and is still 100% charged and I just replaced the engine. Well it was still charged until i dropped the compressor and the fitting blew off. The AC was still working great with the old motor. If it were me I would change the O'rings and charge her up. The gauge to do it and fittings you can pickup at walmart even. I got my gauge and fittings from walmart and the o rings from advanced auto. Hell I did the same thing on my toyota and Sonoma except I didn't change anything. I just added oil and 134. They work great. I use them everyday!
Jeremy is right you should technically change all of that but I've had great success w/o doing that.
Just my 2 cents.
lata
tc
being an a/c guy (or at least i pretend to be one on tv), was the ac system left open (broken hose, disconected line, etc.) or was the compressor clutch just shot and they didn't want to fix it..... if it's the later, you will probably only need a compressor, clutch, accumulator and oriface tube (i'm pretty sure it's an oriface tube system)..... when you are ready to work on it, you should remove the oriface tube and look at it (i think it's past the condensor)... if the oriface tube is really ped up, you'll probably need a new condensor too (being that all of that is in there too)...... if the system has been opened and stayed that way for 10 years, you might as well replace everything :(.....you only need to replace a line if the rubber ones looked cracked or the metal ones look kinked....... and when doing the 134a conversion, remember that the amout of r12 the system takes IS NOT the same amount of R134a it will use (i think it needs about 5 more ounces of r134a)...... also, use ester oil to fill the new compressor (it should tell you how much to add to it, and yess, there is such thing as too much oil in an a/c system)....... anyway, any line you take off you should replace the o-ring on it, and well...... good luck :)
Its never been disconnected, but I don't know the condition of any of it (will soon as the parts arrive tomorrow). Its probably completely dry inside the lines though, having not been pumped or touched in 10 years. I'm guessing there's leaks everywhere.
Hoses are possibly fine, but new ones would guarantee no problems and look a hell of a lot better under the hood (typical cracked/broken/missing foam surround above engine)
just make sure you change every o ring. Ford designed a wonderful system that leaks like crazy. I know from experience on my cougar. Also don't loose the little springs int he connectors. That is all that holds them in place under the pressure. You will also need a fuel line dissconnect tool to take the fittings apart. It is a very easy job to do. Should only take you a few hours.
tc
...so apparently there isn't a drop of R12 still in the system. That answers one question.
Now, whats the black thing that sits up against the side of the compressor? None of my new stuff has that and it doesn't appear to be on the website.
Also, the compressor says it already has enough oil in it for a complete system. I don't quite understand how that works/how it stays in when trying to hook things up. Also why i have 2 bottles of oil now. Have me a little confused there.
How are you supposed to install a new accumulator if moisture is bad for the thing? Seems to me the moisture would get inside while installing the thing.
Other than these things, I think I'm ready to start swapping.
got a picture of the little black thing? I woudln't worry about the accumulator much. If you are really really worried about it then put it in last and do it quick!! :) I wodln't worry about it a whole lot.
tc
okay, umm...I compared the compressor to the one on the car and its completely different. Even the mounting holes. It does NOT look like this: http://www.ackits.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AMA&Product_Code=013301CP although its on the order.
Also the accumulator hose doesn't have a fitting near the compressor. The rest appears the same.
What does not look like that picture you linked too...the compressor you recieved, or the one on the car?
sorry, a little vague. The one I received is different. Also the model number of the accumulator sent is different but it looks identical to the one on their site, without the fitting. http://www.ackits.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AMA&Product_Code=41857MD . Its 41435, not 41857
What year is your car...does the compressor on the car have a connector on the suction port on the compressor?
Thats the low pressure side, isn't it? It has one on the hose itself and another on the compressor. Its an 88. Not sure why there's two, but I figured whoever did it did it for a reason
The one they sent me is just completely wrong though. Its even a bit larger than the one on the car. Not getting off to a great start with these guys.
The 6P148 setups have the low side port on the compressor. FS6 setups have the low side port on the hose. The hoses are interchangeable...so if you buy an FS6 hose with a 6P148 compressor, you'll have two low-side ports.
Does the compressor look like this...?
(http://www.polarbearinc.com/Comppics/ford/6p148c.jpg)
Sorry ackits sent you the wrong compressor. I've ordered a few thousand dollars of stuff from them and they haven't messed up an order yet. They should make it right.
ya know, it does. Both FS6 and 6P148A look identical on their site so I'm curious how you know thats the exact same one...
The only real difference between the two compressors it their piston stroke...the FS6 is longer because of this. You might even be able to fit an FS6 on your 5.0. I know it won't work with Mustang brackets though (or so I've read from people on the Corral). The last picture I posted is the thru-mount 6P148 model (6P148C). Most compressors have an ear-mount and a thru-mount.
If you want, I can measure the body length of the FS6 on my car and see if it is the same as yours.
This one only has the "thru-mount" then...and I don't see any way of mounting it...not the right bracket.
Yeah, the thru-mount won't work on your car.
http://www.polarbearinc.com/ford.htm
I think ackits closes in 5 minutes. (Nope, DST)
Yeah, they already closed. This is going to be put off for a bit now... :mad:
Anyways, is there no problems in reusing the high pressure line? The mustang r12->r134 conversion things I've read said to discard of the old one, and this is where that black foam I meantioned earlier is.
They got me a replacement (arrived yesterday) and I was lucky enough to find a place that would flush the stuff for me. Was problem free and quick so went ahead and swapped out all the new parts/o-rings, pulled vacuum, and charged/discharged/recharged the system. Leak free and cost me $200 total for everything - I actually feel I got a steal. Blows nice and cold now :D
The place was so laid back, with nice guys and such, that I'm going to have NO problem bringing my car back if I need any other work done that I can't do - such as these seized o2 sensors. They even did everything the CORRECT way (was there the whole time), from what I've read on the internet about a/c.
I was starting to wonder what happened. Good to hear you've got icy cold A/C.
I'd be interested in vent temps if you have a thermometer lying around.
I don't, but my "estimate" on "normal" a/c on a 91 degree day is somewhere 55-60 degrees during a 10 mile/15 minute run. There's room for improvement I think. The condensor and radiator have a good gap between them so minimizing that should help, along with an electric fan (once the controller gets here...*keeps waiting*).
What I don't understand is that Max A/C, although it gets noisier, doesn't seem to cool any better than pulling outside air. The passenger compartment is much cooler than outside, yet the vent temps seem to stay the same.
Max just blows more air it doesn't actually make it work colder. Since it blows more air it cools the car faster.
tc
?
Max blows just as strongly, but the extra noise is from it sucking cabin air in and recirculating it. Basically it recools the already cool air.
mine blows harder actually. Not making htat up. you can feel the difference.
tc
Yeah, that may be true. My blower doesn't seem to blow all that hard at any speed so I wouldn't know. The work van and minivan both blow much harder, along with a 2001 Saturn and a 2003 Focus. Maybe it just needs replacing
I just bought an anemometer (http://"http://www.extech.com/instrument/products/alpha/an100.html"). Once I've settled into my new house (http://"http://www.griffshp.com/belchja/pics/deleteme.jpg") I will give the flow difference between MAX and NORM for my two foxes. My money is on 15%. Anybody else have a guess?
. I didn't think it was that much more but i'm never good at guesing. EVER! My sonoma has absolutely no difference between max and norm. I think it's all ****ered up honestly, but i'm gonna complain on a 50 dollar pickup with 112000 on it.
tc