I'm in the process of switching my '85 Tbird from an SO to an HO. The HO engine fuel injector rail has the newer "air conditioning" type quick disconnect fittings, while the fuel lines in my vehicle are the older "push-connect type fitting with a hairpin clip." Anyone have any experience or thoughts about how to solve this problem? I'm dreading having to replace the entire fuel line back to the tank.:bricks1:
Thanks.
I just clipped the end off both and hooked it together with a piece of rubber fuel hose and clamps
Be sure and keep a camera on you. I want to see the aftermath.
Works fine it hasnt leaked at all. Vehicles have been working that way since they made the rubber hose why wouldnt it work now?
Did you use the high pressure hose? The stuff that costs $5 bucks a foot?
Has a operating pressure of around 50+ psi and a burst rate of 250 psi.
Old school 99 cent a foot hose has a burst rate of 45 - 50 psi.
Your electric fuel pump is putting out over 40 psi. Do you really want to risk using a hose that is ready to blow?
Did you use typical screw type clamps? I hope not, you need to use fuel injection specific strap type clamps. And they are expensive too.
Now after reading this.... Do you feal comfortable?
After assessing the situation, double checking all my connections, and the hose as well as making sure the clamps were tight, and making sure that it was actual fuel line, noticing that the hose isn't being stressed at all, yes I feel comfortable with it.
But since this APPEARENTLY isn't how its supposed to be done why not quit ragging on how I did it, as well as not being an @ss and tell the person how it SHOULD be done.
worm clamps are fine. as long as your have the correct EFI hose- it doesnt matter what clamps you use:D
here you go guy. The fuel lines...well then. The good news is, with an in-tank or in-line fuel pump, you're okay there. But getting the lines to the motor is another story. The metal lines going to the motor are okay, but they need to hook into the rubber lines before that. So this necessitates finding a way to adapt your stock lines. Ford does make a nice kit (p/n N803431-S) that makes life easy for you. It's two unions and 4 clamps, used to convert your existing lines over. Cost for the kit is around $10. If you find your car cannot use this kit, you may have no other choice but to run all new fuel lines from the tank to the engine.
And if Im wrong on that argue with someone else
Well, I guess I mistakenly took you for a person who could have put two and two together and realized that the correct parts to use were in my post above. ;)
There's nothing wrong with the parts I used. The ford kit would be the CORRECT parts. Geez and I thought this post was dead. This is kind of like giving your dog CPR after its been hit by a train. Leave it alone and let it die.
Wow, this thread needed locked over a week ago.
I think CougarSE was just concerned for safety, not trying to come off as a know-it-all.
:locked::locked::locked::locked::locked::locked::locked:
Why are you trying to cover your ass and look like the victom here? Brian is right, I was just pointing fingers at parts that could potentially cause a fire. I've read through my other post a dozen times and I'm not offended by it. :D
here is my question, why not just swap fuel rails so you have the correct fuel lines? that would be the logical thing to do since they are both 5.0's shouldnt the injectors be in the same places on the intake? the fuel rails should interchange.
The origanator of this thread (who has only posted his one question) was going from a CFI setup to an EFI setup.. Totaly different design.
And the other guy was going from an 87 CFI 3.8. Different design as well.
Well I bet you could get a replacement fitting from your parts store. I know Dorman/Motormite make those sort of parts. It is most likely in the help section. But Also why couldn't you use a compression fitting setup. You would need the plastic hose metal inserts from gates air lines then use a compession fitting. I've used those on brake lines and such So I kow it could handle the pressure. If it won't leak air why would it leak fuel. Just another possible solution to the problem.
I appreciate everyone's input...but since there didn't seem to be a consensus on this, I went to a local salvage yard and pulled the fuel lines with the proper connectors out of a '87 tbird 5.0. It really wasn't as much work as I thought. Thanks! BUT now I've got a different problem, see my new post.