Ok, I shouldn't be complaining. I now have a compressor for my Turbo Coupe and it does work. However, for the life of me, the Air just doesn't seem as cold as it should be. I have the ECC set to 60 degrees, and it should be freezing me, but no. To boot, when I'm sitting in traffic, the air doesn't even seem to cool that much. At highway speed, it's a little better, but being 104 outside, it just doesn't feel like it's as cold as it should be.
Now, I figure running the thing at 60 constantly the entire passenger cabin would EVENTUALLY cool down, but that doesn't even seem to happen. I have to have the Vents aimed towards myself or I'll melt.
I am basing this off of my Air Conditioning system I had on that V6 T-bird I used to own. Of course, it had the manual controls, and a different compressor, but It was cold! I used to have to turn it down because I would freeze myself. And yes, it had R-134 in, I put it in myself.
Back to my current car, I did the R-134 conversion, but again, it just doesn't seem as cold as it should be.
Now, I am considering purchasing some R-12 (Or a watered down version like FR-12) Via Ebay. If I were to do this, would it solve my cooling (or lack thereof) woes?
I'm glad the compressor worked! :D Did you use new lines with your 134 conversion? Condensor? My "not really cold" A/C's were almost always because of old lines and an ineffiecient condensor. Any problem with the metering valve?
For the love of Pete, what are the low/high side pressure readings?
What Jeremy said....
They're both in the Green. Fully charged. Not over, not under. No, I didn't use new lines and no, I did not fork out more $ for a new condensor. Again, I don't want sound like a jerk, but I am a very impatient individual, and with 110 degree temps, I am looking for the quickest fix possible. If I purchase Fr-12 or some other variant, will it be colder?
Green isn't a pressure, it is a color.
The quickest fix possible is to troubleshoot what is wrong (if anything) and go from there. The first step in troubleshooting A/C work is to get high/low side pressures, noting ambient temperature. Get the pressures at idle and 1500 rpm.
:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:
Very true, but the first time I read that I about fell out my chair.... :rollin:
WOW!!!!!!!,,, but i agree,, does this theory work on traffic lights as well,,,,,??
Officer,, the light was sort of greenish :giggle:
Did you hook a vacuum up to it and boil off all the moisture in the system prior to charging? I'm no a/c expert but I was told this was an important step...
This is a very important step for two reasons.
1. To eliminate the noncondensibles from the system. Noncondensibles (air) just hang around and do nothing to contribute to cooling. They also displace excess volume and increase high-side pressure.
2. To eliminate moisture from the system. If the desiccant in the accumulator becomes saturated from moisture, the excess will create an acid and wreak havoc among things.
You never said if you pulled a vacuum, did you? Doing so will lower vent temps.
I've never seen any manifold gauges with colors on them. My guess is you don't have a set of manifold gauges and you charged with one of the colored low-side gauges. Charging only to the low side is the worst way to charge. You have no idea what the high-side is doing. A more acceptable way is to charge and monitor vent temperatures. Since you know about how much refrigerant needs to go in (~70-90%), you can get close and them add slowly while monitoring vent temperatures. When adding more increases the temps, you're done. The hotter it is outside while you're charging, the better.
But still, using just a low-side gauge only gives you half of the picture.
i had an extra charge hose and i modified it with some duct tape to a piece of vaccum hose. Then i ran it to the car and opened the valve, and POOF, instant vaccum. It was easy and the thing blew ice cubes for two years without refilling!
20inches of vacuum would be enough right Jeremy?
DMC24 Guy --
1. Stop being impatient. It will get you nowhere, especially when working on your car.
2. If you want something to work correctly, then repair it correctly. DO IT RIGHT. If you can't or lack the knowledge or expertise to do it right, then pay someone else to do it right for you. Otherwise, do without it.
3. Listen to Jeremy on this. He knows what the hell he is talking about.
That is all.
I'm having the system Evacuated today. I'm buying Fr-12 on Ebay and charging it myself. To hell with patience and safety! I want cold air now it!
i thought once you put 134 in thats it no return to 12. bc of the oils. i allways pull a vack. on the system for a while to make sure nada is in it. it also depend on how hot outside is to get cold ac.
stik a garden hose to the condencer and rad leave it on while charging to keep the tem of the systems down
1987 Ford Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
For Sale
$2300. or V8 Trade.
Thanks!
Wrong forum...
Look here - http://foxtbirdcougarforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=18
*----Cricketts Chirping----*
Oh yeah. :o
20 inches isn't enough to boil any moisture off, but it is better than nothing at all. If you have a fairly dry system, and renting/buying a true vacuum pump is beyond your means, a venturi pump can pull enough of a vacuum to get rid of noncondensibles. Harbor Freight (http://"http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92475") carries one for ~$15. Name brand versions go for ~$50. They do pull a bunch of CFM though.
The following chart shows the boiling point for water versus vacuum.
(http://www.griffshp.com/belchja/forums/H2OBoil.gif)
I swear, I've seen the heat make people do crazy things here. It totally screws with people's heads. I drove mine to work today with the windows down because I'm just plain crazy...and too cheap to shell out $80 to get it re-charged when I've just leardned to accept the fact that you can't escape the heat here in AZ.