I'm putting the Sport buttstuffog in my base cluster car, it's an 88, and on the alternator lamp, and the alternator feed from ignition, circuits 904, and 687, respectivley, I don't know what to do with them.
Position 10 (plug A)
Alternator Lamp-circuit 904-light green/red
Pos. 11
Alt feed from ignition-circuit 687-grey/yellow
And also, the diagram for the buttstuffog has "AMP" for positions 5 and 6...what are these for? Premium sound amp?
POS 5-AMP-655-red/orange
POS 6-AMP-654-yellow/light green
BTW, my diagrams are from Eric's Coolcats.net
Other than that, I've got everything else hooked up...
Thanks, Beau
On the original cluster you had an amp light (wiring in pos. 5 and 6). The new cluster has an amp gauge. The two existing wires (light green/red, grey/yellow) are close-enough substitutes for the amp gauge to work.
do i just stick these in position 10 and 11 then? thanks
They'd go in pos. 5 and 6. I don't think it matters which goes in where. I've tried both ways and in either situation, the amp gauge still didn't work properly, as usual. ;)
I got it all to work, except tach, and amp gauge, I'd modify the resistor in the tach to read the V6 correctly, but since it'll soon have a V8, why bother...oh yes, the oil pressure gauge doesnt work, probably due to the fact that the engine has a switch, instead of a sender, no?
Anyway, Thanks for clarifyin' the Amp gauge wire issue, Eric. You da man! lol
Don't modify it. I modified mine for my v6 and it doesn't work correctly. Its extremely Lazy. And when its cold, like on a winter day, it hovers from 2000 rpm to 3000 rpm. Works good on a hot day though. Still slugish.
I am also completing the v8 anolog swap into my 87 t-bird (was a V6). Really need a couple questions answered... i have no L/blue-pink for position #7 in the A plug but i do in the B plug? and what is 12v to IVR mean? I also did not have a dark green/white for position #10? And again what does 5V IVR return mean? My next question is...can i run a wire out from the position #5 to the alternator on the battery side and likewise for position#6 run a wire out and to the alternator to the ALT side? Last questions i promise...For the Oil and temp senders (Positions 8 and 9) I am doing a 351 swap in my car and would like to know what senders I need to make these work, i would assume that positions 8 and 9 go into the engine bay with the rest of the wiring? Thanks in advance guys.
You'll have to lengthen the wires on the B plug, so they'll reach over to plug A..I did, nothin to it. lol
As far as your oil & temp senders, just get the 5.0 pieces, they'll correspond to the windsor, although you *may have to get efi truck pieces, not sure if carb 302 will work on an efi engine..?
If you need any more help, just ask, a lot of follks here have done this, it's not all that bad, hell, if I can do it, anybody can! (I'll admit that my wiring skill is not up to par)
I have actually ran the wires required from the B side to the A side and lengthened them but the Lblue/ pink wire was supposed to be on the A side and it was on the B side ????
Actually, there should be a light blue/pink wire on each plug, but
the one you should use is circuit 295, that goes to 12 volt inst. voltage regulator. plugs into position 7, when you rewire.
How I done it anyway, and my gauges work, but that doesn't mean that EVERY base/lx car is the exact same ;)
double post-disregard
Can anyone answer the few other questions i had? Eric,Claude? Post # 7. Thanks again guys.
To answer some of your questions (assuming you have a base cluster and are converting to buttstuffogue):
First, a full buttstuffogue gauge only has one plug, there are no "A" or "B".Your existing cluster has two plugs. Some wires from your existing plugs will be used, some will not (they are not necessary with the buttstuffogue cluster, such as LCD illumination, metric/imperial output, etc). Before you do a swap I highly suggest you read this page (http://"http://www.foxthundercats.com/tech/cluster.htm")
The light blue/pink wire that goes into position 7 on the buttstuffogue cluster would come from Plug A, terminal 12 if you are swapping from a base cluster. This wire is the ignition feed to the IVR and should only have power when the key is on.
The dark green/white wire you refer to in the buttstuffogue cluster's #10 postion would come from plug A, terminal 14.
The wires in postions 5 and 6 are only for cars originally equipped with an ammeter. Running wires to the alternator will not result in a functional AMP gauge because the cars that had this gauge from the factory have special "calibrated" wiring that allows the ammeter to read the current without actually carrying the brunt of it (this is called "shunt" wiring). If you simply run wires like that you could end up sending excessive current through the dash cluster. The good news: I don't think Ford ever made an amp gauge that actually worked, so you don't have to use terminals #5 and 6 at all. Instead, though, in order to ensure that your car's alternator (which is set up to work with a light) charges, you should connect a 470-ohm 1/4 watt resistor between the wires in your existing plug A terminals 10 and 11 (these wires will not be connected to the new buttstuffogue cluster, just connect the resistor to them and tape them up)
The oil and water wires (in positions 8 and 9 on the buttstuffogue cluster) are already in the car. Any Windsor-based engine's senders will do as long as they're for buttstuffogue gauges. Do yourself a favour and get an oil sender from a pre-84 model - 85 and newer engines use a fake sender that is really only a switch (your oil gauge will always show the same pressure, regardless of actual pressure, unless it goes below a certain amount)
Sorry guys i should have explained myself better...I have read and printed out the info supplied and used that info to complete the swap thus far but i have no Lblue/pink wire in my plug A from my original base cluster. Yes i'm a for going ahead and unplugging the wires from both plugs and started doing the swap without doing them individually but at first glance everything looked as they should by the supplied info. Everything else adds up now with the info i have received from the help of Thunderchicken and FTF but the elusive Lblue/pink wire. Now being as there is a L/blue and pink wire in Plug B that appears to go to the same 295 circuit will that work?
according to Eric's chart, the light blue/pink wire from plug B is the one you'll need to run to Pos. 7
The base cluster SHOULD have a light blue/pink on both plugs...and apparently they are on the same circuit, too, 295
Yes, they go to the same circuit (ignition feed). If you have the full digital there's a third light blue/pink wire from the ECM (fuel flow signal for tripminder)
From my own experiance, and my mistake. You should right down what colors go where on the old connectors. (too late this time) My car being an 88, and i'm starting to think it was one of the last ones made; only about half of the wires matched up to carmens diagrams. I had to go through with a multi meter and probe a few of the wires. My turn signal wires, high beam indicator and a few others didn't match. Those are the easy ones to find. My inputs for my guages did match up though.
When it comes to anything on these cars, the wire's position in the plug is far more important than the color of the wires. Ford was many things in the 80's - consistent was not one of them. The EVTM may tell you to look for a blue wire, but the wire might be red on the car. However, if the EVTM tells you to look for a wire in terminal 6, that wire will be in terminal 6. It might not be the right color, but it'll be there. I found this out when doing my tripminder instalation ;)
Yeah...what Carm said. ;)
That's also why I put down circuit numbers in my instructions: to show that the wiring color may change, but the circuit number won't. The only way it could is if Ford changed the flexible circuit board on the back of the cluster...which they easily could have, but I've not found that to be the case. Therefore, follow the circuit numbers and you'll be alright in most situations.
Thanks for the help guys, i really appreciate it. As you can see from the attched pics that it will be a little while before I can see how it works.
Here are a couple of more pics...She is going in for the paint/bodywork at the end of April:D . Engine has been complete for a while and the tranny is in getting rebuilt as i write this. The car only had 85000km(50k miles) on it when i got it and the interior was literally mint. It just sat since late 1993 and never moved in 13 or so years. My baby!
Hey buddy your cruise control servo is showing...:D
oops sorry thanks:tetas:
I just got a quick question about your interior..:
Did it come in grey, like pictured, or did you swap it? I've never seen a Base/LX "bird with grey interior, and maroon ext.
TC, yes, but not the other models...
Looks like you're makin progress, too, but with not engine, how ya gonna test your new cluster?? lol
Never mind.
The interior is grey from the factory, the only thing i have replaced in the interior is the carpet(factory color) thats in it temporarily, just checking fit and I am going to take it out when it goes for paint. I have had a few coments about the interior... it has grey dual power seats w/power recline etc, as well as grey everything else. The pics of the seats dont do any justice as they are like brand new just need a bit of a shampooing.
Power recline seats, nice.
no cracks in dash, nicer.
Finding this info, all over again, 6 years later...nicest. ;)
Will come in handy tomorrow.