well to start things off I was was driving to work the other day and I lost boost and my car started to run really py. the most boost that I could make was about 1psi I had a T04E hybrid waiting to go on so I put everything together now I have a few problems... I cant get my airbox hooked up because the stock hose isnt long enough, and my oil drain leaks, and I need a different wastegate actuator. I found this one (http://"http://cgi.ebay.com/Adj-Turbo-wastegate-actuator-Garrett-HKS-greddy-NISMO_W0QQitemZ8042488165QQcategoryZ6782QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem") on ebay and I wasnt sure if it would work for me or not.. thanks for the help
Ditch the airbox, stick a cone filter on the VAM, my VAM isnt mounted really, i have it held with a few zip ties to the inner fender well, something similer should work for you with that problem
Where does the oil drain leak? did you use a gasket?
whats wrong with your wastegate actuator? The ebay one seems to be too small, ill check out a few sites and see if i can find you something.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T3-T4-Internal-Wastegate-w-Adjustable-Actuator-T04B_W0QQitemZ8031373056QQcategoryZ33742QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
that looks like it should work, email them and as for specific details
Wastegate actuator.
My stock WG wouldnt fit my T04e. The bolt hole's on teh T4 compresoor housing are spaced farther apart than on the T3 housing.
Also the rod/hole for the flapper was to short. I welded that solid and then drilled a new hole where I needed it.
If the turbo is a T3 compressor housing machined for a T4 wheel the WG will work just fine. But if you have a T4 compressor housing on a T3 center/exhaust etc the WG wont work.
I ended up drilling hole's and doing some welding on mine to make it fit. I will be buying the correct one in the future.
kyle
I modified the IHI wastegate to fit the new turbo and made sure that it would operate the valve but I dont like the way I cobbled it together I bought a oil drain kit (http://"http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8041586141&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1") for a t3 are they hard to put together? I just found this actuator (http://"http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-Turbo-Turbocharger-Wastegate-Actuator-Bracket_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6755QQitemZ4618204459QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW") I think this is what I will go with. any objections?
Not really. Once you get the lines etc you will see how to assemble them. Basicly you shove the line into the fitting and then screw the different piece's together. Like I said once you see it first hand you will understand.
kyle
the oil line is 16 inches long can you cut braided steel?
Braided hose isn't that hard to cut...wrap electrical tape around it, and then you can cut it with a hacksaw or (my preference) with a cutoff wheel.
By the way- you're gonna have to get ahold of a T3 exhaust elbow to fit that hybrid, I think. Is the hybrid turbine housing even set up for an internal wastegate?
edit: I wouldn't buy that oil drain kit. The distance between the factory turbo mounting location and the oil drain hole in the block is really too short to do a standard braided line (trust me, I tried). Get this one: http://www.maxpsiracing.com/fordreturn.html
Made specifically for the 2.3L turbo and it's cheaper than that other kit anyway.
You forgot the most important tool's for the job.
Tweezer's and bandage's. :D
I alway's manage to poke at least 3-4 hole's in my fingers while cutting braided line.
kyle
I usually don't have problems cutting, it's handling it afterward that it stabs me a thousand times.
Attaching the hose to the fittings can be a bitch too.
I've already paid for the oil line from ebay so i guess we will make it work. should be here sometime in the next week I'll keep an update on what I figure out. thanks guys
oops. Well, have fun. The actual piece of braided hose you'll need will me somewhere around 5-6" long. It's really hard to get that short of a piece where you need it to go without it kinking.
couldnt I put a loop in it and make it work? maybe its a dumb question I'm kinda tired
here is what I did for my intake for now.
It would have to be a big loop and I don't know if you'll have enough room to do it in there. I guess you can give it a try.
a loop wont work for the return, the return needs to be relatively straight, and on a downhill slope for the most part.
can you not use a stock return line?
Stock return lines suck...
Anyway a loop could work, as long as it's all "mostly" downhill, although it could be iffy with -10 AN as that's about the same ID as the stock return line.
There's a big debate over there on TF about return lines at the moment anyway. I dunno. Mine just goes more or less straight down, but it also goes into the pan, not the block.
so what you are saying is ford spent all this money in time and reaserch for a stainless convoluted oil return line and it sucks? It is near impossible to run a braided return line in the factory turbo position.Ask me how i know.
I had about 60.00 in a line i had made to replace a broken return the angle is so extreme it kinks the hose into yes it was braided steel.
Yeah, I already said that, on the first page.
And yes the factory return lines suck. For one, you can't get new ones, for two, they usually end up getting crushed, messed up, or cracked, and the fitting that goes into the block is usually so rusty that it's unusable by the time you get it out.
I already said to use that line I posted a link to because it's specifically made for the 2.3 Turbo. That's the only braided line I would attempt to use with the oil return going into the block.
You can get new "stock T3" return lines. You won't like the price.
http://home.flash.net/~jewhelan/svo.htm
About 2/3 of the way down the page
I got the drain kit today I think it wont be a problem making this work. here is a pic
new question, does anyone make replacement studs for turbo mounting? and what have people been using? I've been chasing he** trying to find nuts that will fit and the ones that I found seem to have messed up the threads on one of the studs. I'd like to replace all of them with something better if possible.
new question, does anyone make replacement studs for turbo mounting? and what have people been using? I've been chasing he** trying to find nuts that will fit and the ones that I found seem to have messed up the threads on one of the studs. I'd like to replace all of them with something better if possible.
bump...
update, Orielly's sells the studs for our cars, I changed the gasket just for it to blow out again. the problem is that the stock pipe is up against the body and when tightened down it pulls the top of the turbo out causing the gasket to blow. So now a new exhaust is in the making will keep you updated :D
well heres an update.... turbo to manifold gasket is blown again.. :mad: for some reason the bolts are working themselves loose and causeing the turbo to blow. I was told to use brass nuts to make things easier the next time I go into it but they seem to be causing me more problems by not being able to tighten them down due to the softer metal and the risk of stripping the threads. so this time I will use steel nuts and lock tight. hopefully this will be the last time I have to deal with this problem. any other ideas of things I could try? maybe I have a warped surface? gonna tear into it next weekend if the weather is nice. maybe I'll have the oil line kit from aerobird-motorsports by then so I can get it all taken care of at once.
Loctite won't do you much good, it's too hot for that stuff (it's only good up to around 350 degrees).
If the gasket is continually blowing you have a problem...also are you actually "blowing" it because that is a steel gasket, doesn't really blow out. Are you sure the nuts are working loose? I only had that happen once on my car, and that was when the U-joints went out on the driveshaft, and I guess vibrated the engine so bad that the nuts worked loose.
It sounds to me like either the surface of the manifold or the surface of the turbine housing is not true and flat, and this is allowing the gasket to blow.
IDEA... drill the holes out put a bolt trought the hole and put a nut on it with a lockwasher..
it worked on my headers for the 5-0
What you need are the proper nuts. You need the postive deformation type. Look on McMaster-Carr.com, I got a bag pretty cheaply. Actually, just PM me your addy and I'll send you some. Normal nuts will not work, and they will work themselves loose everytime.
PM sent
here is what I have come up with since I blew my turbo last weekend.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=330013307724&ih=014&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT
Isn't that turbine housing missing something? Like an elbow?
no elbow.. it might not even work for my set up since it came from a motorcycle :wtf: :dunno:
Seriously?
That thing is tiny....I doubt it's even a T-3 from the looks of it.
if this doesnt work for me it will go back on ebay and I'll get another TO4E :mad:
I dont know what the deal is but even with a new TO4E I still cant make more than 5psi of boost what is the deal?? :mad:
Check your vacuum hoses? I had a hole in one of my lines and I couldn't boost for shizz. Have you checked the fuel pressure under boost/WOT? Ran any codes?
I ran codes when the problem first started and came up with my tps problem but I have since fixed it. the car runs fine and feels good with the 4.5 psi or so that it is making would dist. timing have anything to do with it? I think I have it set at 14* I miss my boost :(
I dont know what to do with this thing.... please help....
Is the WG flapper closed all the way? Could be bleeding off boost.
you know I did notice some carbon on it but I didnt think anything of it until I put it all back together. that could be my problem right there. carbon not letting the flapper close all the way. I'll open it up this weekend and see what I can find.
Have you checked cam timing also?
cam timing? I havent changed anything since it came back from the shop after blowing the head gasket. the car runs really smooth but wont boost at all with a new turbo. I am leaning tword the carbon on the wastegate door but I havent fealt like taking it apart :flame:
Cam timing being one tooth off wont make much difference, but can drastically effect your turbo spool.
Is your wastegate adjustable?
yes it is. should I try taking the vacuum line loose from the actuator and see if it will boost?
yes it is, but this all the sudden happened causing me to think that my turbo took a dump. but with the new turbo acting the same way I have to think its something else. I dont think the cam jumped timing. is there any way that I could clean the wastegate door without pulling the elbow?
Did this turbo work alright for a while? How did you initially set your wastegate?
If you pop the wastegate off, you can open and close the door by hand, but its hard as hell to reach
I set the wastegate to where it wasnt easily opened and then I tightened it down a bit more. I am thinking that when it was running rich it built up carbon on the door and isnt letting it close all the way. I think I'll take the elbow off when I get a chance and see what things look like.
I think it would take a loooong time for enough carbon to build up on the wastegate flapper to keep it from closing properly.
lol it was fouling a set of plugs a week with carbon.
Have you droped the down pipe and ran it just to check to see if it some form of exhust blockage. I had a full new exhust even a new cat. After the previous engine threw a cam followers and the head was cracked I finally got a differnt motor in there. It wouldn't make Boost but would run fine until upper RPM's. I checked and checked and checked. Finally took it to a shop at first they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Then the took out the 02 senesor and noticed alot of exhust comeing out. So they put a pressure gauge on it and I had 18psi back presssure. Ok so I took it the the local exhust shop and they put on a new one and let me look thur the old NEW one and you could only see thur 2 holes when I lifted it up and pointed thwards the sun. If had it smoking bad at any time that could plug it up. Also I use regular grade 8 nuts withlock washers on the turbo nuts. I also put antisieze on there just to make it eazy to take apart later. I also last week replaced my turbo-mani gasket. Before hand it sounded like a weed wacker and top boost was 8-9psi. Then afterwards it sound like a turbo car again and 17psi max with no adjustment to the boost controller.
I took apart the elbow today and I found that the wastegate actuator wasnt holding it closed all the way so I went ahead and took everything apart to make sure I didnt have any other problems but didnt find any so I put it back together. now it tries to make boost but bucks and kicks at about 5psi its got me baffled again. I'll see what I can find out.
cam timing is fine and the rotor and cap are good... the only thing that I can think of to check are the plugs and maybe the dist timing. I could really use some help :(
I bought this boost controller and it came with this little piece and I am unsure of what its for.
What kind (brand) of boost controller is that?
Have you every checked fuel pressure, at boost, on the car?
http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/Fuel_System/fuel_system_diagnostics.htm
I have checked fuel pressure but I never got a chance to do it under a load. after changing the fuel pump (walbro 255lph) the other day, I reved the engine and it held a steady boost of 10psi in nuetral wich confused me. I am starting to think that there is something blocking my exhaust flow possibly in my lers. I am running flowmaster 40 series. could this be the cause of my problem?
What held steady at 10 psi? If it was fuel pressure you have a serious problem.
Clogged exhaust will limit boost, not help it go to 10 psi in neutral?
Which are we talking about here?
What kind of boost controller is that?
See this article for the proper, step by step way to run fuel system diagnostics:
http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/Fuel_System/fuel_system_diagnostics.htm
the boost controller is one from ebay. here is the listing. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=150031736157&ih=005&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT
You could get an A-pillar dual gauge pod and use one of those openings for a fuel pressure gauge.
Actually Pete, as odd as it sounds, a clogged cat will make it boost in neutral.
can someone suggest a cheap ler that will be better for my setup and still sound awesome? I need to get these ed flowmasters off. :(
heres what I'm thinking http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-5-O-O-6-Round-14-Body-MagnaFlow-ler-SS-12636_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33636QQihZ003QQitemZ130033419286QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
ditch the lers and run some flex tube in their place for now
wouldnt that be kinda loud Shawn?
That was going to be my suggestion. My TC isn't that loud without lers, but I still have stock size tailpipes.
problem solved... was my TPS. all is better now!!
Glad you got it fixed
Great to here that it's done. Good job Graham
Thank you all for the help :D
well the turbo is gone like I said in the other post, and I dont want to run another TO4E and I really dont want to go back to a stock setup. my budjet is about $350 to spend on a turbo, any ideas?