Well, after waiting for nearly 3 weeks, my Turbo Coupe finally arrived today in Tucson. I haven't felt this kind of excitement in a long time! Everything on the car works fine, except obviously the transmission. I was told before I purchased the car it was slipping, but took my chances anyway.
I got the car home, but on the way, noticed it wanted to stay in the lower gears. I could coax it into the higher gears by using the throttle, but once I hit a red light....it started all over again.
What would cause this to occur? And also, it isn't possible to take the Tranny out of my 3.8 and put it in the Turbo is it? The Turbo is an Automatic 4 speed....
Either way, I'm still overwhelmed with joy. To just have this car....it's been such a long time since I bought it...it seemed like it would never get here. But here I am, with the car I've always wanted, and I couldn't be happier. Pictures will come soon.
totally different automatic trannies. i couldnt say weather or not you could use it in place of the turbo coupe tranny though.
It sounds like the throttle pressure may be set incorrectly or the linkage amy be binding. THat would cause it to want to stay in gear longer than normal.
Here's the thing, sometimes it slips while in first gear, other times it stays in first until I feather it into 2nd. I wish I could be more specific but that's the gist of it.
I'm just afraid because of all the things I know about cars, I've never been a Tranny person, and I don't want to take it into some place and be told the entire Transmission needs replacement, when all that's wrong is a broken solenoid. If I knew more about transmissions, I would know what to look out for, but for the most part, I'm an idiot when it comes to the drivetrain.
I checked the fluids on the car today, and I swear, the previous owner must not have had a clue about cars. Not to offend anyone here, but it was a teenage female, whom I'm positive ran the thing into the ground and didn't bother with even the most simple maintenence. The Oil is low, and will be changed by myself tommorrow, and the Transmission fluid was VERY low. I filled it, but the slipping and sticking problem still remained.
I have that feeling with the previous owners lack of car knowledge, she never changed the Trans Fluid EVER, and that may have contributed to this problem.
Anyway, does anyone else know of little things to check for before I decided to get the entire Tranny replaced?
The problem with it is that it's an A4LD ;) Those things are quite honestly junk...they're notorious for blowing up behind 2.3L n/a's, I can't believe they can even hold up behind a Turbo 2.3.
As far as a solution, I don't really know what to tell you. Most guys with 2.3L Mustangs with an A4LD usually swap to a T5 after the tranny s out on em.
I would change filter on the tranny and see if that would help.
take it to a GOOD/reputable tranny shop, and have them look it over. they can adjust the TV cable properly. could very well save the tranny, if everything is caught early.
TV cable? Please, explain further. As I have said, my knowledge on the Drivetrain is at best...mediocre. Also, how would the "Filter" on the tranny have anything to do with Slippage and Sticking?
"throttle valve" cable. it adjusts the pressure on the band inside the transmission. dont try adjusting it though. if you dont know what you're doing, you can cause severe damage. like i said, take it to a reputable tranny shop, and have them look over it.
Do the A4LD trans even have cables? :dunno:
Man for what it would cost to rebuild that thing you could probably swap in a t-5 and be done with it.
I also have another question. The Keyless entry does not appear to be working with the original code. That tells me that it was changed at some point in the past. If I were to unhook one of the battery cables, would that reset the code back to the factory original?
The factory original code should always work regardless of whatever other code was programmed. The only way the "hard" code would change is if someone changed the keyless entry module. It's located on that aluminum rack up against the back seat in the trunk. There should be a white sticker on that module that has the code printed on it. You could double-check it to see if it is the same as the code you've been trying.
I should probably mention this as well. The key doesn't work on the driver's side door. It goes in, but when I turn it, nothing catches. Also, when I'm inside the car and push the Lock/Unlock buttons, the passenger side lock functions normally, but the drivers side doesn't move at all. The only way I've been getting in the car, is climbing in through the passenger side door, and pulling the drivers side handle to unlock it. Once the drivers side door is unlocked, both handles work.
From the sounds of things, does this mean the lock is broken?
The lock actuator is dead. You'll need to pick up a new one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-THUNDERBIRD-TBIRD-GRANADA-POWER-DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33696QQitemZ8030089675
No TV cable on a A4LD.. It does have a Kickdown cable but pressures inside the tranny are regulated by the vaccum modulator mounted on the outside of the trans... I seriously doubt its the problem but for $15-$20 it may be worth the gamble. Also make certain the vaccum line going to it is not broken/leaking...
For the lock, sounds like the linkage is disconnected is why the key spins round and round... Had the same prob on my TC..
Does the keyless pad light up when any of the buttons are depressed???
Alright, I've waited patiently on this one. 16 posts and no pics? Double-yew-tee-eff mate?
There's a Vaccum line going to the Tranmission? How would I check if it's broken/leaking? Also, I'm worried about taking it into some transmission shop because of the fact it may be something simple. I just know walking into one of these places they look at me with the word "sucker" written all over my forehead. If I knew it was something simple, like this vaccum line, I would attempt to fix it myself, but as I have stated, my knowledge in the drivetrain department is minimal.
Also, the lights behind the keyless entry pad Do light up, but the factory code doesn't work with it.
Pictures will come very soon.
I believe the vac modulator is on the passenger side rearward area of the tranny. I'd just connect a vac gage to the line and make sure it pulls 17+ inches of vac. It's definatly possible it or the modulator is your problem, as playing with the throttle will cause sudden changes in vac.
On the key pad, press the 7/8 & 9/0 buttons at the same time to see if it will lock the doors(be sure you have the key in hand or have a window down). If it works, chances are you just have the wrong code, if not the actuators are likely shot(the power locks do operate from inside??). Possibly the keyless module has been replaced, look on the module itself for a code. The module is located in the trunk behind the rear seat(driver side). It is mounted on the aluminum dropdown panel(just need to removeone screw plus maybe the sound deading cardboard in front of it. It is a black rectanglar box approx 6"x2"x2"
Take the door panel off and have a look.
Sounds like it my have "slim jim" damage.
Well, I know I said I was going to do this a while ago, but without further adieu, I give you, the 520 dollar Thunderbird....
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2239012/1
Please, Opinions, and then I will share what I have learned about the tranny problem.
looks sweet man...nice find
Nice! I'll have to send you a message next time I'm out in Tucson. Hopefully next time I'll have my cougar with me ;)
I like it :D looks alot like mine when I got it minus the moonroof
Well, the verdict from a local transmission shop is as follows:
Delay in Drive, Cooler Line fitting leaking at Transmission, Passing Gear cable broken, transmission has late up shifts, wrong vaccum modulator.
They wanted 2 grand to rebuild the whole tranny, and the cheapest place in town told me I could get it done for $995. So, Assuming I can sell the Blue Thunderbird within the next 2 weeks for at least $700, spend as conservatively as possible, and wait for my next paycheck in two weeks, I should have the money. To be honest, they could have told me anything and I would have probably believed them, seeing as I don't have a clue about the drivetrain.
I asked about the Modulator, and they said while it was the wrong type, they adjusted it as much as they could but it had no effect on the problems.
Again, comments, suggestions? (Other than the standard Chuck the A4LD and put in a T-5....)
is that with aftermarket parts? im sure u could build a hell of a tranny for 2k
I'm not sure. The 1st place I took it to was a rather large chain (Lee Myles) and they told me 2 grand to repair it. I then went to a local place and some guy named "Honest George" told me 995 plus expenses. I'm assuming I can't get it done any cheaper than that, so I'm going to save up until I got the cash to take it in to George.
BTW, is there any website in which I can find out if there are any other Turbo Coupe owners in my area? I swear, I have NEVER seen an 87-88 Turbo Coupe in this entire city! Sure, every once in a while you see a non-Turbo T-bird, and maybe a Sport, but I have yet to see a Turbo Coupe. Makes me wonder If I've got the only one in town? I gotta figure living a city with a population of about 1 million, someone else has to have a Turbo besides me. Or maybe not. I tried the Thunderbird Registry, but there wasn't a search option for location. I also tried Cardomain, but had no luck either.
http://www.turbotbird.com/ :D
I don't know how much they usually run...but I do know those transmissions are expensive to rebuild. The Turbo Coupe I got my 8.8 rearend from at the junkyard was low mileage at 80,000 miles and the only thing wrong with it at the time it was brought to the place was the tranny. The junkyard owner said the guy didn't want to spend that much on a tranny rebuild so he just junked it. I would have liked to have been there before the car got stripped and bought it whole...I'm sure it was in great shape when it was brought in (body was perfect on it). Anyway sorry to ramble but if I was you I would just put in a T-5. It'll be a lot more fun if nothing else;) . $995 is a lot to rebuild a tranny back to stock in my opinion.
Nice rig. And for $550, you can't go wrong.
A little piece of advice, though. If you're trying to sell the car for $800, don't say you'll be willing to go down to $700, if completely necessary. The buyer will always think it's completely necessary to get the lower price. Just say asking $800.
i got my c4 rebuilt with performance parts for 750... man newer trannies are a boat load to rebuild. and watch out. that was "995 plus exspenses", you should find out what "expenses" are before getting it done, or it just could be 2k anyway.
Those A4LDs must be expensive or complicated to rebuild. When I had the AOD rebuilt in my 20th Anniversary Cougar it was $833 total.
Well, the reason I said 700 if necessary is because I am really just aiming to get the money needed to fix the tranny. I have approx. $450 in the bank right now, and should I sell the car within the next two weeks, I should have at least $1000 all together. Then once my next paycheck rolls around, I should have approx. $1500 at the minimum, which would be more than enough to fix the transmission. Whatever is left over would go to replacing the front windshield, and fixing the locks.
Oh by the way, does anyone know how I can repair pieces of the rear bumper which have fallen off? There are several areas where the Yellowish colored bumper are showing due to parts of the black trim having fallen off. I've seen these Cans at Autozone which are supposedly rubber which can be sprayed onto the bumper to repair it. Would that stuff work?
When my rear bumper started yellowing I just went to NAPA and got some sand paper and a couple cans of "bumper black" paint they had along with primer. You'll have to probably peel off the center piece on the bumper (mine is chrome but the TC's are different colors) and then get some adhesive to put it back on when everything dries. Make sure you tape everything off really well and apply several thin coats instead of one big nasty one. Also the more time you spend in prep the better it should look. I am by no means a auto-body man but mine looks resepectable enough to get me by until I can afford to get the whole car repainted. I don't know why the paint wouldn't stay on the bumpers of these cars. I've had to paint both of mine.
Well, after the nightmare that was removing the door panel, I was able to see that the rod that was supposed to be connected to the Manual Lock was un-hooked. I quickly snapped it back on, and presto! The lock now works. However, the keyless entry still doesn't work. When I push the last two buttons, It locks the passegner side door, but that's it. It doesn't move the drivers side lock at all. Also, I attempted to input the original code into the Keypad, but it to didn't affect the drivers side lock or passenger lock either.
It doesn't make any sense to me. Obviously the keyless system is responding to when I push the last two buttons, but otherwise, anything else I input into it does nothing...
Also, how does one remove the intercooler? I'm assuming you guys do this when changing the plugs. Otherwise it would be a tad bit...difficult.
you need too check the keyless module itself for the code if you havnt yet. theres a sticker on there that had the code that works with it. there may still be a sticker on the trunk lids pivot/support arm somewhere. my car still has it. the box could have been swapped out for another. the full 7 digit code should unlock both doors and open the trunk. do the doors and trunk open with the buttons/switches from inside the car? if not than maybe start checking the actuators themselvs. if the keyless is unlocking the passenger side door and nothing else id say maybe check the actuators. take the one out of the drivers side door and plug it into the harness on the passenger side and then try the code. id the actuator works than its a wireing problem in the driverside door or its harness or the moduel in the trunk. you could alwayshiznit a jy and get another moduel box and try that.
I know what the original code is. As I have said, when I put the code into the keypad, nothing happens. I try to open the doors but the remain locked. However, I did try to push the last two buttons on the keyless pad, and when I do, the PASSENGER side door does lock. However, if the drivers side door is unlocked and I do the same thing, it doesn't lock that door. Just the passenger side.
When I'm inside the car, the power locks work on the passenger side door but do nothing to the drivers side door. I can lock and unlock the passenger side door with the buttons, but not the drivers side door. Also, the button in the glove box that is supposed to open the trunk does not work.
Sounds like you have have a bad actuator. Probe it with a multimeter. Measuring the actuator itself for resistance and the connector into it for voltage when you push the lock buttons.
How difficult is it to remove the intercooler? I'm assuming to change the spark plugs, this is a necessary step. I can't really see any way to get to them easily without removing the intercooler.
Sorry for the double post, but I've got great news....and it doesn't involve car insurance....
I just sold my front end damaged, 1987 Ford Thunderbird 3.8l V6, otherwise known as the "beat you down from $500" car, for a cool $800 dollars. That plus the $500 paycheck I shall be receiving on Friday, AND the money I still have in the bank equals me getting the tranny on my Turbo Coupe repaired!!! Plus with the money I will be receiving from the Gov't soon, I will be able to get a new paint job, and windshield!
Mua ha ha ha ha ha!!!
(http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2239000-2239999/2239012_13_full.jpg)
You got $800 for that???? Man I bet you could sell ice to a Eskimo...I've turned down far better cars for half that money...
On the keyless entry, my guess is you have the wrong code since the passenger door locks using the 7/8-9/0 buttons. Does the interior lights operate with EACH button??? Suppose its possible to have a bad keypad and maybe one of the buttons is defective that the code requires... You really need to verify the code from the sticker on the keyless module...
You'll have to get inside the driver door as it likely has a actuator problem, but that ain't gonna make the keypad work...
Yesterday while playing around with the Keyless entry, I put the code that was on the sticker inside the trunk in. When I pushed the "1/2" button, the passenger side lock unlocked. When I pushed the "3/4" button, the trunk popped open. However, I still cannot get the drivers side door to unlock. I did fix the manual lock linkage so I can still use my keys to get in, but the keyless seems to have no effect whatsoever on the drivers side door.
(The key pad DOES work because obviously the code works. All the buttons light up, and as I have said, the original code for the car does seem to work on it. My problem is that the keyless entry does not seem to affect the drivers side door lock in any way. It can unlock and lock the passenger side door, as well as open the trunk. But it doesn't do anything to the drivers side door.)
Then either trace the wires and test for voltage here and there, or have a closer look inside the door. Sounds like the previous owner locked himself out, and some nimrod with a slim-jim started yanking on anything he could reach inside the door, pulling off the key-lock linkage and likely ripping the wires to shreds.
Listen closely when you punch in the code. Can you hear the actuator moving in the door? Maybe it is just unhooked.