Since I had to do this for my last track event to keep the motor from running out of oil in fast corners...I noticed that my oil pressure (on the buttstuffog cluster) was higher, but it was a good thing.
The motor has 150,000+ miles on it and the oil pressure reads to the low part on the "NORM" area of the gauge. When I change the oil the fresh oil will bump it up to a safer part, usually in the middle.
I ran 6 quarts of oil and it stayed in the middle, is was kinda reassuring. So would it still be a bad idea to run another quart of oil on a worn out 5.0?
Well...running 6 quarts isn't such a good idea because then you start to get a lot of oil up into the crank. Then you get "windage" from the oil wrapping around the crank, and also the crank beats the oil into a froth which is never a good thing.
Maybe you just need a heavier weight oil? I'm not sure.
Yeah, what weight of oil do you run?
Good points, forgot about that whole crankshaft thing getting in the way thing.:brick:
I'm running 10w30 in the car, no oil consumption problems and have two minor leaks, one at the rear main and another at the sending unit. Not quite sure I wanna run a heavier weight oil just to make the gauge read higher, the car runs fantastic overall. :dunno:
You might try on the next oil change to put in a qt of Lucus oil treatment. Works well on older engines.
Just my 2 cents
Is it true that as the crank comes into contact with the oil (due to overfill) that it can actually cause the crank to erode?
I think he meant Aireate( splash around in the oil and cause air pockets). The splashing also robs H.P.:yuck:
so. heres a question about splashing. if it not over full and you make a hard left or right wouldnt it splash from side to side. in the pan.
Unless you spend your life running NASCAR ovals, a hard right/left in daily driving won't affect much of anything.
I've used Lucas before, I might put it in next oil change. But the car runs pretty well, I'm wondering if I should just not bother since it runs fine.
Also when the engine is running the pan has less than 5 quarts in it...so that helps a little.
I would suggest the correct oil pan with baffles and such for track style events. I am assuming you auto x the car?
running it overfull is robbing power and will aireate the oil wich will eventually destroy the engine bearings.
as suggested before a thicker weight oil .. even like a straight 40 or 50 weight . will help against vescosity breakdown.
I would also suggest a mechanical oil pressure gauge.
oil pressure spec is
40-65psi @ 2,000 rpm with engine fully warm
then i got some good oil pressur in my car in park at idle i get 40 . but does sweep up to 60 when i hit it.
on a side note of the gauge. you will really know how much oil psi you are at. bc when i bought my car the gauge said i had nada for psi. (old sending unit) and i have great oil pressure. you could try a new sending unit to see if it changes anything.
If you do plan on attending more and more events, a nice oil pain with baffles, a new oil pickup (if the pan requires), and a windage tray would be great
a windage tray, and a properly made crank ser is good for a couple horsepower also
yep sounds like your is still healthy.
I'll get a nice pan when this motor takes and dump, not gonna mess with it now.
Well it was a nice thought to run another quart (wait, no it wasn't :nono:) but I think the motor is fine the way it is. Back to suspension mods.:)
The other downside to aireated oil is that is what the oil pump is also pumpiing and I have never heard of air being classed as a good lubricant.
On a higher maileage mill you may want to consider a high volume pump as well due to larger clearances;)
I'm not touching that motor until it takes a dump on me. When I do mod it, I'm gonna do most of it (at least the long block) in one shot.
'sides, its nice to tell the C5 and C6 owners that they got own3d by a stock 1988 Cougar. ;)