Since mother nature has reared her ugly side recently and dropped the temps into the freezing zone, i've been have trouble unlocking my drivers side door. I'm not positive but I believe the lock soleniod to be the culprit. It works fine when it's warm enough or if I work at it long enough to get it loose. However as of last night it seems to be dead for more or less good. I've been looking for replacments from the usual suspects, i.e. : Napa, Vato-zone, and Advance Auto. I can't seem to find anything except for the Mustang part and it's nearly $60. Anyone have any idea's or insight on this?
I got one from the dealer about 2 years ago and paid a lot for it. I'm not sure but i would guess the Mustang one should be the same....Try and see if they have one for a Mark VII.
There have been some universal ones on eBay for some time now....come with all the different rod configuration and lengths to fit your particular application. I hear they're not bad...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCURY-COUGAR-GRAND-MARQUIS-POWER-DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR_W0QQitemZ8020563593QQcategoryZ33696QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
So.. would you say that it would bolt up nice with minimal modifications? Of course after drilling out the old one first.
You don't necessarily have to drill out that pop rivet. I used to think so, too...but you can usually pop out the solenoid from the bracket with little effort. Disconnect the harness, grab the solenoid, and pull down. It should pop off the bracket; if not, drill out the rivet LOL. There are two black bushings on the ears of the old solenoid that you'll probably need to transfer over to the new one. Possibly the rubber boot too. Extend the arm from the old solenoid out as far as it will go, and that will help determine which one you'll need on the new one (or, you can transfer it over, whichever). That's really about it...installation is the reverse, as is said. If you do manage to get the solenoid out with the bracket still attached to the rivet, then put the harness in the new solenoid first (very important), fish the arm into the latch mechanism, and push it up into the bracket until both sides pop in. You have to feel for a positive lock into the bracket.
Obviously...words are hard to describe the process but that should help you.
Fordpartsnetwork has a listing for the power door lock actuators.
http://www.parts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=318&chapter=DN2FD0&appSectionid=3&groupid=10005&subgroupid=20061&componentid=60963&make=10&model=Thunderbird&year=1987&catalogid=1
Are they really different for each side?
On edit:
Rockauto carries one part, so does Autozone.
Ouch, that's pretty steep on the price for those one's. I think I give the ebay one a go and see how much more a screw things up :D ! Though i'm thinking that the car is playing mind games with me as the lock/solenoid worked perfectly when I left work. I think it know's i'm mad at it ;) !
if they are the same as a mustangs than open up a mustangs unlimited or mmff and look through for some mustang restorer ads...they have them for around 40 each....
Eric is correct. There should be no reason to pop the rivet. My old one came right out of the bracket.
As far as those price listings it's interesting to see that they have made the left side nearly double the price of the right. Nearly the same component with minor differences but, I guess we all know which one breaks more often.....
Just looking to bounce something off ya guys... Is it possible that there is more wrong here than just the soleniod being bad? The reason I ask this is because I have one heck of a time getting the door to open period. Doesn't matter if I try it from the inside or the out. I pull, tug, push, kick, slap, and yank on the inside handle and the thing just won't budge. Though I can eventually get it to open once the car has warmed up some, and things work when I leave to head home from work.
These are the same symptoms I've experience when my actuators have gone bad. It is worse when when cold. Unlocking the car with the key or by pulling the handle from the interior both require the actuator to move. If the actuator is frozen, these things become difficult. Pulling the door panel off and bypassing the actuator is the quick fix.
I find it humorous that 50resto says you must drill the rivet to replace the actuator. (Instructions (http://"http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/download/instructions/LRS-21842.pdf")) Page 8 clearly shows the actuator can be removed without doing so. Is it coincidence that 50resto sells a rivet gun expressly for this purpose?
General rule of thumb: if the door lock solenoid is broken/stuck/frozen, using the key in the lock becomes very difficult and that adds to wear and tear on the latch mechanism. Temperature definitely affects how they all work together, as I had the same problem on my old T-Bird. Warm weather, everything seemed to work fine. Winter weather, use the keyless entry only LOL.
I probably swapped in a dozen or more door lock solenoids in that driver's door in 5 years. When I bought the car, in fact, had to do that first thing. I'm convinced there was absolutely something wrong with the latch mechanism itself, that somehow put stress on the entire system, and for no obvious reason would just kill solenoids. My solution?
Sell the car. ;)
Anyhow...if you get the door panel off, observe the system and all the moving points, and spray the living shiznit out of EVERYTHING with lithium grease. Soak the latch mechanism especially. I'm also thinking that over time, dirt and grime and hair and grease can build up inside the latch and contribute to failure. In the case of the T-Bird, my next step was going to be trying a different latch mechanism, but finding one for the keyless entry/illuminated entry was proving difficult in my area.
Nothing says ghetto more than getting into your car via the passenger side door. :hick:
...not that I have any personal knowledge of this or anything
How about having to open the door at a drive through because the window won't work:giggle: