anybody have any pictures of it installed? or where at? i was look'n to use dynamat extream 36sq feet and like 20# of it on some surfaces, then use some cheap bquiet stuff or what ever else where. what id realy like to know is where can i get the best placement of the dynamat extream. iv looked at alot of place includeing stangnet and it hasnt realy been a help. i figured the dynamat will stick better than the cheap stuff, so i'd use it on inverted and vertical surfaces, ie roof door pannles deck lid? any thoughts? pictures would be a great help.
I've done some sound deadening on my Thunderbird and it has made a ton of difference. The products I used though were Second Skin Audio's Spectrum and Overkill (http://www.secondskinaudio.com).
The first deadener I bought for my car was 2 gallons of Spectrum. I used this for the inside of the outer door skin and for the inside of my trunk (but not the trunk lid). I applied it on with a paint brush and it was fairly easy to use. After using both gallons, the difference was like night and day. Doing the doors help to kill outside sounds and also helped keep the sound from my door speakers inside. Before I did the doors, I could hear my door speakers clear as day from outside with the windows up. Now it's not nearly as loud. The sound deadener in the trunk and under the backseat helped to kill the sound of my exhaust. Although this made a major difference, I wanted more.
I wanted to do underneath my carpet, so I went ahead and bought another gallon of Spectrum and 40 sq. ft of Overkill. First I applied a few coats of Spectrum, and with it still a bit wet, I put down a layer of Overkill. Then, I put a thin layer of Spectrum on top of the Overkill. This I did underneath the carpet under both the drivers and passenger side, and underneath the backseat again. After applying this, I could notice a major decrease in sound from under the vehicle. When I go over any bumps or anything, I can hardly hear it compared to before.
In the future I plan to use some RAAMmat (http://www.raamaudio.com) on the inside of my doors and on my trunk lid, but that's when I get new door speakers. Now to answer your question, I'd recommend doing the doors first. They seemed to quiet down my interior a lot and I didn't need to use a lot of material on them. The tough part though is if you plan on using sound deadening mat instead of liquid deadener. It would be really tough to apply that inside the door. The liquid deadener was tough enough.
well, hear it is so far, interior is out. im debating on weather or not to pull the dash out a bit. next i will be removing the old deadener, and prepping for the new. i might try some of that liquid stuff to.
If you have a Heat gun, Cascade makes a better product than dynamat. Dynamat is good, but if you put it on...say your trunk lid (IE a high heat area, especially in summer) It could ooze out and get all over the place. That stuff has the consistancy of roofing tar on the adhesive side. Ease of Use, i'd go with dynamat, because even a chimp on valium can put it in. And it DOES perform as advertised. Cascade is better in my book, however...and its also lighter, weight wise, and on the pocket book.
cascade huh? im useing my heat gun now to help remove that tar from the sheet metal. i'll look it up. i still need more something for the car, im still not sure where to place the dynamat tho. i want it to be most effective, yet not distroy interior parts with that liquid tar glue they got on it.
, wish I'd had taken photos of the Dynamat install on the convertible. I wasn't nuts enough to do it...the stereo shop did. They used 3 of the large rolls. From what they told me, I hold the record for most Dynamat they've ever used in a non-truck application! There is silver stuff just frickin' EVERYWHERE. Did it help? Well...who knows, with the top down ya can't hear shiznit anyway. ;)
The basshiznits a LOT harder now though. I think the biggest difference it made was in the trunk. The underside of the trunklid was done too. This car has all these nooks and crannies in the trunk and back seat area because of the conversion, and it's really tough to get your hand in some spots. So they let the short guy with the small hands do all the installation. Overall I'm happy with it...it was expensive (~$60US a roll x3, and that was cost) but the work and product are both guaranteed. I asked the shop owner why not a cheaper or different brand, and he told me the silver Dynamat is the best. Now I'm sure there are other brands out there that work just as well and are cheaper. Those are just his words. Probably told me that to justify the price...who knows. ;) If I were to do it myself I wouldn't be afraid to try another brand.
Anyway...to answer your question...the entire trunk is done. And I mean everywhere. Under the back seat, directly on the floorboards. Behind the door panels, the entire metal parts are covered. There are pieces in behind the door speakers. Also, behind the triangles by the mirrors. I believe there are some pieces under the dash as well. They also coated the inside of the rear quarter panels.
you'll want to put some where ever speakers are mounted so the speakers aren't rattling the metal instead of moving the speaker, and the trunk, and under the rear seat.
those are the most common places. but where ever you think noise might come in, or a rattle might develope.
update...
tar mat stripped out, vaccumed out, rust spots grinded to clean metal, and rustoleum painted over bare metal. tomorrow probley i'll start scrubbing it clean and start putting in the dynamat. im still pricing some other stuff out to. i may end up useing dynamat and this other stuff i found. tests showed, out of like 8 types, it was the most durable, but their were no decibel tests...
looks like the heat realy helped peal the sound deadaning off. the little part that i did was a pain by just sing it. apparently ford had it in different body colors. nice progress man...
can i ask you why so much dynomat? serious sound system?
looks nice in there. keep with the install pics, very handy info.
well, im weighing the total amount of sound deading removed, and trying not to exceed that limit, so im not sure how much dynamat their will be. but i do plan on installing a better system in the near future, and i want quiet inside the car when i shut my windows. the exhaust gets anoying after a while, or wind noise. it is a luxury car, i want to be able to have compleat quiet inside when the windows are up, like im isolated from the outside world.:D
HA HA! NOW THEM DAM ALIENS CANT READ MY THOUGHTS IN MY CAR!...
update... finaly lol, i still gotta do the trunk, but hear are some dynamat install shots. im not sure about what im doing with the boxed sections left undynamated... they look thicker, or at least more rigid so i left em undone to save on dynamat. any suggestions?
wholy shiznite man....
how much did it cost you to do your whole car like that?
Jesus Jumping Christ!!! You couldn't even hear a jet if it used your roof as a airstrip. I've heard the extreme is high quality, but the best is the second skin stuff is the absolute best. And the price shows it. I saw a test somewhere where they test the liquids and mats and they found that second skin was best and that the dynamat was a lil behind. I was also told that for the price that Raamat(sp?) was about the best bang for the buck.
Yeah how much did that cost? I have a buddy at best buy so I can get it cheap anyway. I want to do that to my car as well. Let us know how the ride is when your done!
yeah....geeze thats kind of extreme, how much did you end up using anyway? did you weigh it?
Looks good. For those who want to do something similar check out http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ (http://"http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/")
Jason
lol, yeah im go'n for quiet, as if you cant tell... anyways Ebay is my new lord and master lol, i managed to spend about 85 bucks for each bulk pack (retail around 200?), so 85 x 3 = 255. i went a little over weight wise, but i took around 40#s of sound deading out before the dynamat, pluss i did some other modifications. even with the chassis bracing and the extra dynamat im still under stock weight. i also used spray stuff for the harder to reach places, like inside the door pannles and crevices.
anybody know anything about sound traveling through metal tho? i mean i left some stuff unfinished because it looked almost frame like, not just a piece of thin vibrating sheet metal. im thinking what to do with my last sheet.
did you do in the trunk as well or is this mostly just too cut down the road noise. ya gotta let us know how well it realy worked for that. slick....
After seeing the commercial for the F-150...I was wondering if you could fill the voids with something like that Great Stuff foam? Not sure how flamamble it is though once "set". That could help with the A-B and C pilar areas perhaps.
I wondered about great stuff too...it is probably the same stuff that F150s and luxury cars all have. If you can use it in an attic, odds are its fire retardant enough for going inside the A-pillars.
yeah, i was thinking liquid stuff. iv seen cans of liquid sound deadener, but for the price, it dosnt cover much, and its realy more like under coating. im gonna have to look into that foam stuff now. thanks :D
Just be carefull when using expanding foam. I've seen some pics of people body panels warped afterwards, mainly trunk lids.
Jason
if you used spray foam it does work but i highly reccomend using minimal expansion... it will definitely bend your panels.... i know first hand i did it on a friends car..... but what a difference in sound!!
I had to do a lot of backseat/firewall wiring on one of my old Bugs. The previous owner had filled rear quarter panels full of Great Stuff (probably to support the bondo covering a foot-long rust hole). It was an outrageous pain in the ass to try to work around, or even work with it. He had filled every gap or space between the sheetmetal. Needless to say I was cursing him the entire night. Might be something to think about as far as the long term effect of filling spaces with expanding foam.