As if I needed another project, but here we are.
I've been wanting to get rid of the F150 but wanted to replace it with a Fox wagon (which will eventually get a hitch). I've never been much of a truck guy, no matter how hard I've tried.
Found this thing on Marketplace a couple months ago, but wasn't in a place to do anything about it at the time.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/Ad%20pics/ad_1.jpg)
After some talks with the owner and working out some logistics on my end, my buddy and I made the 6 hour trip to southern MO to check it out.
It has been sitting under a group of trees since '05-'06, when it was parked for what looks to be a HG issue.
The interior could best be described as "moist", due to a bad door latch striker leaving a minor door gap, and a window slightly cracked.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/Ad%20pics/ad_10.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/Ad%20pics/ad_8.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/Ad%20pics/ad_7.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/Ad%20pics/ad_11.jpg).
Checklist was-
- Check strut towers/frame
- Check underneath
- Check cowl
Popped the hood. Towers and frame were clean. Got a jack underneath it. Greeted by perfectly straight pinch welds and a surprisingly rust-free floorpan. Pulled up the front carpets. No evidence of standing water, so the cowl is good. There may be some rust inside in the rear floors, but nothing was evident from below and it seemed solid. It's definitely in nicer shape, body-wise, than the LTS was.
I struck a deal with the owner and we pulled it out of its resting spot and got it ready to travel.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/Pickup/348405833_9482103655196254_4473771807293807629_n.jpg)
The first stop before a quick bite to eat was a carwash
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/Pickup/IMG_20230724_144228485_HDR.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/Pickup/IMG_20230724_144241348_HDR.jpg)
Still needs more scrubbing, but there is no body damage, no body rust, and only a couple small spots on the hood where the paint has given up.
Right now it is tucked away in a relative's pole-barn until I get it moved to the house. Hopefully that will help dry the interior out a bit. It's not getting touched until after I finish up a couple of house projects that MUST get done before tearing into this.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/Pickup/IMG_20230724_213212549.jpg)
The plan right now for it, aside from getting the interior sorted, is pretty basic for the time being.
It will get the '11 3.7/6R80 combo I have in the garage. Will stay 4-lug for the short-term, but will get at the very least 11" Fox brakes. Tow hitch. General refresh to get it road-worthy.
More details and pictures when the car is at the house and I'm tearing into it. For now, it's just planning and organizing when I'm not tending to my other needed projects.
:like:
That thing would very sweet, I think, with an SN95 rear (to fill out the wells a tad more) and some Mustang Tri Bars.
In short, it's awesome. Good score.
And to those who say "it's a wagon, just what in the blue hell is wrong with ya?!".....it's a wagon thing. You are either in, or you are out.
, I want one. :roxor:
I’ll admit it….I’m just a lil bit jealous.
I was pleasantly surprised that it was so solid. I was prepared to just leave it there if it was a rotten mess (or we couldn't come to a deal under my price limit), but it made the long day worth it.
I'm itching to get it here, but it would just be in the way at the moment. It can simmer for a couple months while I tend to other projects and plot and scheme the build.
That 3.7 swap should be cool. My brother has a 2012 3.7 Mustang and as much as I bug him for buying a 6 cylinder Mustang I will admit (only because he won't see this) that it works well.
I'd love to see a 3.5 Ecoboost T-Bird...
It should move along just fine in a platform that weighs about 3-400# less. It's going to be over twice what this thing had stock...and better mileage.
This will also be a test fit for the engine platform. I too also have an interest in a 3.5 EB in a Fox car.
This will be a fun project for you. Will you be keeping the LTD sedan or will it become a parts donor?
This wagon is begging for a modern interior. Heated and Cooled seats out of a newer Mustang......... Forget added weight and just enjoy.........Can you yell I am getting old? LOL
A 3.5 EB would make an exceptional tow machine out of it. Well, as much as a unibody can be a tow machine from that era. And YES, frame connectors STAT!!!
I drove an '80 4dr Fairmont with a progressive 2 barrel 2.3l. Still stands as the worst car I have driven today. The frame flex was so bad you could feel it flex between the front and rear axles twisting.
There's some videos online of a guy in NJ with a wagon Fairmont with an independent rear, 351W, and T5 plus 5 lug conversion. Thing is pretty slick,
Here you go! Not mine but on YT.
https://youtu.be/8BSvi9G8oLo
The LTS isn't going anywhere. It's 1 of 134 built. It was going to donate it's 5.0/AOD to the wagon, but I opted to drop the 3.7/6R80 in instead. The 5.0 won't remain in the LTS forever, though.
As long as the AC works and the stereo is good, that's enough of interior upgrades for me. Just wish it wasn't light tan. There's an '83 LTD wagon for sale in FL with a "nice" light blue interior, but that's too far away to deal with, and the rest of the car is kind of rotten. If it was closer, I'd grab it for the interior and s the rest.
I have a spare console for the LTD, so I may swap seats and install the console in it, but I'm not really a fan of all of the new "space car" interiors.
The 3.7 will handle the towing I'll need to do just fine, honestly. I'll probably be building my own hitch, though. I'm also looking at some sort of air helper or just air springs in the back, mainly for load leveling. Not going to bag the entire car. Not really a fan, and the car won't be slammed.
I figured they were out there. I might contact that guy for any more info on the build, though. So far I've only come across a 3.7 swap into a New Edge Mustang.
The one thing I dislike about the 3.5EB is that able water pump.
It's what put me in a 5.4 Expedition, rather than a '14 and up V6 unit.
I guess it didn't matter though, as I no longer have the Expy.
I used to tow a lot when doing the NETRA Enduro series with cars / wagons.
'00 Subaru Outback, for a 4 cylinder auto it tried really hard and actually towed well my open 8x5 utility trailer. Felt like I was trying to murder it on the highway though.
'06 Pontiac Grand Prix - Towed well considering how light duty the tow hitch was mounted. Transmission temperatures were threw the roof!
'06 Dodge Magnum RT AWD - It was awesome....I wish I had added bags to the rear coils to help with weight.
'06 Maggy (https://photos.app.goo.gl/tVf5beBo8on6AWat5)
If you are only around town towing that setup will be fine. If you are going any long distance I would at a minimum add an additional transmission cooler.
Looking forward to your rebuild on this when you get settled.
Yeah, my main towing will be probably a 5x8 utility trailer, but I may stick a tow dolly behind it occasionally.
I'll have some SFCs under it and will probably just add a trans cooler by default. I have one sitting in the garage that I thought I was going to use on the LTS.
I also have clips for a set of Yakima roof-top load bars, which will be available for install, incase I need to throw something up top that's a bit much for that factory roof rack. We also have a Thule rooftop cargo pod that we use occasionally for trips.
I've towed with my wife's '04? Impreza wagon (MT) and my '06 Accord, 4cyl auto. With my 5x8 utility trailer, the gate is where most of the drag comes from. I used wood ramps and ditched the ramps. No issue at 65mph for long distances with either.
I agree, that ramp acts like a sail even if it is mesh. I used to fold it in and load on top of it for long distances too.
The car is home now.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2023/home_1.jpg)
Have it tucked away into the work spot so I can get to cleaning it and tearing out the drivetrain.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2023/home_2.jpg)
That's awesome!
So, a little update.
Life and winter has hampered progress, but here's where we sit at the moment.
In the bay with the 2015-17 intake.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/final%20test%20fit/placement.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/final%20test%20fit/rearview.jpg)
All with the hood closed.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/final%20test%20fit/hood%20closed.jpg)
I went to a 96-04 Kmember, as I needed a little more drop under the oil pan. Still needed to clearance the back of the Kmember to get the pan down and foreward.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/final%20test%20fit/moreclearancing.jpg)
I have about 1/4" between the oil pan and the rack, but as you can see, the pan is still tucked up under the K-member
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/final%20test%20fit/lowerview.jpg)
Right now I'm sorting out motor mounts. I have a couple ideas on what I want to do, but we'll see which one pans out. Ironically, I may wind up welding the factory mount pads back on, even if they're in a slightly different location.
The only real clearance issue is the u-joint on the steering shaft with the DS exhaust manifold. I think I can make it work OK with a little engine placement, a spendy steering shaft, and some clearancing (meaning grinding).
Since the other site is down, I'll update here.
Been going in circles this past few months trying to work between several projects.
This one needed to get the K-member mods done and I accomplished that. (Pic of it in primer)
Relocated the FCA mounts inboard 3/4", since I was going to use the SN-95 arms, and the stock width between the control arm mounts was the same between the LTD and the Mod K-members. I was going to have fender contact if I tried to leave them as-is.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/Kmember_20.jpg)
I talked myself into thinking that I needed to clean up the engine bay before I dropped the drivetrain back in the car, so I needed to address that, and got it knocked out this past weekend.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/emptybay.jpg)
I need to remove a bunch of un-needed wiring and do a few more things, so it wasn't a bad idea to strip everything out.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/baypaint_1.jpg)
I hit it with a couple rounds of scuff and clean with some grey ScotchBrite pads and treated any remaining corrosion areas with some Corroseal.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/baypaint_2.jpg)
The primed and painted it with some Seymour MRO paints.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/baypaint_3.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/baypaint_4.jpg)
Next task is to get the drivetrain back in the car and out of my way in the garage.
Wow! What a difference for the engine bay!
its amazing how good of shap that lower rad core support is in. you amaze me with your quarky appreciation for the odd fox box platforms. im sure you will turn it into a gem!
Well, there is a bit of damage hiding on the bottom rear of the passenger side of it, but nothing I wanted to mess with. This is a car that is going to get DRIVEN, so I wanted to make sire things were sealed/fresh.
Truth be told. If I didn't have the '83 TBird, I'd be building up another 80-82 Box TBird/Cougar XR-7 in its place. :toothless:
Fighting for time, but I finally got the drivetrain and K-Member installed in the car today.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/drivetrain_final_1.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/drivetrain_final_2.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/drivetrain_final_3.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/drivetrain_final_4.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/drivetrain_final_5.jpg)
Not 100% happy with the motor mounts in the end, but I'll investigate more if I have problems.
I've got to say, what some of you guys are able to do is really amazing. On the farm, I build and fabricate stuff all the time, but comparing my talent to yours is humbling. Well done! Thank you for posting.
Back at it for a bit today. mainly sorting out wiring details and a couple other bits.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/Wiring/wiringfun.jpg)
Trying to sort out all of the needed wiring I need to save or repurpose from the LTD stuff. Need to save things like power feeds, AC control stuff, and separating the lighting wiring from the other stuff that's not going to be needed.
For the lighting, I'm planning on doing an H4 conversion, like I did on the TBird, and run the headlamp power from the battery, through relays, and just use the old circuits from the headlight switch as triggers.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Body/Lighting/Oldharness.jpg)
This is all of the front end light wiring. I'm going to remove the extra bits from the cornering lamps that aren't used and remove the headlight plugs, as I'll be replacing them with a new, uprated harness.
This pic may cause some folks a bit of stress, but there's a method to my madness.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/Wiring/fusebox_3.jpg)
Seeing as I'll be needing to add relays, etc for fan(s), lighting, fuel system, I thought I'd go a different route instead of piecing together another aftermarket set-up (like on the TBird)
I picked up a fuse box for a 2011 Mustang and will use that, to take advantage of some of the wiring and circuit protection already being in place.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/Wiring/fusebox_1.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/Wiring/fusebox_4.jpg)
The extra circuits/relays I can repurpose to run things like the lighting circuits, as well as repurpose some of the unused J-case fuses to replace the fusible links on the power circuits I need to reuse from the LTD.
Gonna be a little tedious to sort through, but I think I can manage it ;)
To finish up, I bolted the later intake on with the throttle body. Just to have something fun to look at (and close up the intake).
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/11_16_24.jpg)
While digging through the wiring, I did a recheck of the steering shaft to manifold clearance, which was a little bit of an issue when placing everything.
Well, the new MM steering shaft made things worse (the u-joint is bigger than the stock one) and I can't/don't want to move the engine any more to the pass side. The contact is basically right on the connection to the manifold outlet and the pipe . I'm gonna need like another 1/2" of clearance, which I don't have without a lot of rework of things.
Pondering ideas, I went looking into what aftermarket exhaust options there were. Looking around ebay, I found these---for $100
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/Exhaust/shorties.jpg)
I thought, for that price I can afford to gamble on modifying them. Seeing as I have to custom build the connection between the manifolds and the X-pipe, I have a little bit of freedom. The X-pipe was another $100 Marketplace find for an SN-95
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/Exhaust/xpipe.jpg)
Two ideas.
The first is to cut right between the and the collector, on the angle. I think I can possibly rotate the outlet towards the engine a bit to gain clearance.
Option two is to cut the off and add a section of pipe to clear the steering shaft and then add a connection below that.
Either way, I'll also be adding a flex section at the front of the X, to give these thin-walled headers a bit of protection.
My evenings lately have been pouring over wiring diagrams, sorting out what needs to go where. Luckily, most of the engine and transmission/starter/charging wiring is all contained in the existing engine harness. I really only need to focus on the "body" harness connector.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/Wiring/pcmbodyconn.jpg)
41 wire connections that most of which I'll probably be using. the MAF sensor wiring comes into this, as well as the connections for the FPCM and the EVAP stuff (Yes, I'm keeping full emissions stuff on this) and the DataLink (OBDII) connection. I've put together a chart with all of the terminations and whether they're a "Cabin" or "Engine Bay" connection.
I made the discovery that I already have a power feed for the Volvo electric PS pump, since the Mustangs used an electric PS rack. Both also are controlled via CANBUS, so I got to wondering if I can use the Ford signal to control the pump (based on speed, or what-have-you). Haven't sorted that detail out yet. Worst case, I have a little stand-alone controller I can use and set to a constant assist value.
Anyway, this stuff is fun, right? :toothless:
My mind went right to that Engine Master episode where they start denting up the pipes to clear the steering column to see the changes on the dyno.
I wonder what that engine with a cross over pipe will sound like?
Wiring makes me shudder.
If the interference wasn't right at the stupid connection point, this would be a whole lot easier.
Got a bunch of TXL wire on the way so I can start connecting the dots.
Of course the weather is supposed to get frigid here this weekend. Going to have limited time to work on this anyway, we'll see what I can get done.
So I had about an hour to work on this today (and the weather was decent)
Quickly pulled the DS manifold off and confirmed my suspicions that the contact was going to be even worse.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/Exhaust/manifoldcompare.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/Exhaust/notgonnawork.jpg)
I took the cut-off to the
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/Exhaust/off.jpg)
My thought to use the angling of the bend there to rotate the exhaust away from the steering shaft isn't going to work. It does move the outlet away, but the interference stays about the same. Going to have to extend the outlet past the steering shaft a bit, and then make the connection.
Maybe???
That lower section is telescoping (This is the fancy MM conversion steering shaft).
Shoving the upper portion into the receiver on the column more may allow for clearance of the u-joint, but the lower section still needs to angle more.
I need to toss the rack in there to see exactly where things fall, but some sort of modification is going to be needed.
Skip the shorties!!! Onto long tubes! :giggle:
Agree, extending those tubes to lower the would be ideal to clear the knuckle.
I wonder if the spacing and bolt pattern on the exhaust is the same as the 4.0?
Longtubes would've been even more of a hassle. The 6R80 is already tight enough the in the trans tunnel :giggle: .
When I left off, I was going to toss the rack into the car, so I could get the steering shaft where it needed to be. Ran into a small snag.
I had to make more adjustments to my motor mounts, as the rack was running into the oil pan before I could get it into place.
Spent some time early this afternoon modifying the mounts to raise the engine up a touch (about 1/4"). That gave me the room I needed for the rack so I got it mocked up.
I found a 3" to 2-1/2" conical reducer that should do what I need. To test it, I 3D printed up a copy and dropped it all in place.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/Exhaust/reducerclearance.jpg)
I might get more room with a regular stepped reducer, but I kind of like the flow of this one, and if I need a little "clearance" dent it shouldn't be too bad.
I'll need to extend it a bit past the end of the reducer, and then I need to turn down to clear the firewall and get under the car. I'll need to add a bung for the front O2 sensor and I'll probably make a (v-band) connection before the turn down.
The X-pipe is 2-1/2", so I'll just be keeping with that theme all the way to the back.
The downside of raising things up a bit is now the intake hits the hood. (Like thick paper contact). It's on one of the underhood support bits, so another clearancing dent should be sufficient.
Another thing I ran into while digging into wiring involves the fuel system. I'm wanting to stay with the stock return-less set-up and use the stock FPCM.
I came across a possible issue with that involving the RCM (Restraints Control Module). Back in the late 00's, Ford did away with the intertia switch and replaced it with an "ENS" signal from the RCM to the FPCM. If the module, which is tied into crash sensors, ABS, SRS, etc) senses a problem or in a crash, it kills the FP through the FPCM. This car is from WAY before the implementation of all of that, so there's no RCM in the car.
All of Ford's "control packs" just are set up to run a return-type fuel system and don't deal with it.
After finding the copy of Ford's patent for the set-up, I may have a solution for spoofing that signal, though. Picking some brains bigger than mine on it and will know more when I have more parts in hand.
OK, well winter set in and I didn't have much time to fiddle with things that were out of the garage.
Speaking of the garage. Part of my holiday was spent getting 2" insulation up on the roof rafters to help maintain the heat a bit.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2025/garageinsulation.jpg)
It was open rafters and while I have a heater in there, it doesn't do well at keeping things warm when it gets super cold, and it ran all of the time, which kills my electric bill. Finished it up between X-mas and NY. While the concrete floor was cold-soaked for a bit, almost immediately I could tell it was working. For sure the heater didn't run as much as it did. Confirmation came in the most recent bill for that time period. Compared to last year, it was quite a bit colder on average, but the usage was down by 25% over the same time period. I call that a win.
Now to the car stuff.
Wiring, wiring, wiring.
Spent most of the frozen time working on harnesses, etc.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2025/Engine%20Swap/Wiring/Morewiring.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2025/Engine%20Swap/Wiring/harness_1.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2025/Engine%20Swap/Wiring/harness_2.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2025/Engine%20Swap/Wiring/harness_3.jpg)
I had originally planned to mount the fusebox over on the PS of the engine bay, but it was going to really be crowded with the battery, etc, so I opted to move it to the DS.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2024/Engine%20Swap/Wiring/fusebox_7.jpg)
There it's crowding out the airbox I was thinking about using, but I'll be able to figure something out.
I did design up a bracket to mount the fusebox and 3D printed it.
The red bracket in the picture is just the mock-up, but I printed the "real" one out of carbon-filled nylon.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2025/Engine%20Swap/Wiring/BJB_bracket.jpg)
At this point, I need to get stuff laid out in the engine bay to finalize some wiring lengths and prepare the bulkhead connector for the 20-ish new wires that need to enter the cabin.
Inside, I need to yank out the carpet. One, it's nasty and will be replaced. Two, I need to have access to run wires to the back for the FP and other emissions stuff that's at the rear of the car. OBD2 diagnostic port and throttle pedal need to be wired as well.
I needed to shift the car around on it's stands a bit to be able to open the tailgate, but I needed to get the trans mount installed, so that was properly supported. The task to day was to get the Stiffler's mount in place.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2025/Engine%20Swap/transmountinstalled.jpg)
It wasn't a drop-in, as I needed to slot or elongate the slots in each of the frame brackets. Designed for a Fox, yes, but not the LTD/TBird floorpan. This mounting is temporary, as eventually I'm doing SFCs, etc. under the car, and will tie this mounting into that. I need to get the suspension on the front of the car and be able to properly load things up to design and install such things. Seeing as the LTS will need something similar, I'll make a couple sets.
Need to get the fuel system together, and I have a Deatshwerks DW200 pump on the way. Similar to the Walbro 255hp.
That's where we are at the moment.
I'm on a time crunch to get some things done before the end of April. Have a hip surgery coming up and that will take me out of doing the heavy and contortive work for a few weeks. Not going to be able to climb around on the ground for a bit.
Good luck with the hip surgery. One of my snowbird buddies here in Florida had one hip replaced in September and went back to Knoxville in January to get the second one done as he couldn’t stand the pain. He originally thought he could wait until the spring when he would be back home for the summer but that didn’t happen. Anyway he was back here in two weeks after surgery and he’s back playing golf.
Anyway, I don’t know how you help track of all those wires and what goes where, hats off to you!
I had a similar situation in my garage years ago with wide open roof trusses where all my heat went up into the eaves. After I insulted the ceiling with 3 1/2” of fiberglass, it was much easier to retain heat.
Rick
The surgery is just arthroscopic, not a replacement. Managed to damage the socket lining due to some other issues. Pain of some sort most days. Was really bad when I was cycling, but some PT and readjustment on the bike has shifted that to discomfort instead of pain. I'm very active, and having my riding and running cut down by over 1/2 has done a number on my mental state. :tard:
The wiring isn't that terrible. Every connector is ID'd and recorded. Still gonna be fun, and I'm not final wrapping things until I get the car to fire up.
Good luck with the surgery!
I damaged the joint in my big toe once that caused it to mostly fuse. I had surgery on it in 2016 to reform the joint. Recovery took a bit of time (months). Hoping you have a quicker recovery!
I bet adding the insulation also helped with lighting due to the reflecting aspect of it?
I need to get under this
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2025/Interior/grosscarpet.jpg)
So I pulled it out and threw it in the trash. new will be going in when it's time.
Still a bunch of gross under it.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2025/Interior/floorpan_1.jpg)
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2025/Interior/floorpan_2.jpg)
The only hole is in the "plug" on the pass side rear floor area. The rest is just surface rust. Had a little water ingress over the past couple of decades sitting out. You can see the remnants of the build sheet on the passenger floorpan next to the seat bolts.
The rust will be treated and the plug replaced and sealed. Now I have access to run the wiring I need to the back.
Well, I had hoped to toss the front suspension on the car before my surgery in a week, but I realized I didn't have one part to make it happen. It was mainly for motivation and just to start to get an idea how it'll sit with drivetrain, etc in it. Going to be very limited on what I can do for the next few weeks.
At some point I'd tossed the original strut boots, because "I have the old set from the LTS I can use". However, I missed one key thing.
I'd modified the LTS boots for use with the CC plates.
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2025/Suspension/moddedboot.jpg)
All that rubber I ground off of there is needed when trying to use stock-type strut mounts. Oops.
I hadn't planned on putting CC plates on this car yet, even though it'll probably need them. So I need to get some, or just dig up a set of the stock boots for the time being.
I'm going to be chomping at the bit to get at this thing once I am mobile again. I'll probably be in the garage on crutches doing what I can regardless.
Well, I'm 2 days post surgery and I can hobble around at least. The weather is beautiful today, so I got out for a bit of pondering on the car.
I'm trying to decide where I want the fuse/relay box to live and how that's going to affect my MAF and air box location.
It's going to live on the DS of the engine bay for sure, but I currently have 2 options for location.
Either back by the strut tower
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2025/Engine%20Swap/Wiring/fusebox_1.jpg)
Or farther forward
(https://turbochuckcom.ipage.com/webimages/projects/86%20LTD/2025/Engine%20Swap/Wiring/fusebox_2.jpg)
You can see that the orientation of the throttle would like for the air box to be in that front corner (which it is on the 2011 Mustangs).
Using the stock Mustang airbox is out, as it's too big to fit in the spot if the fuse box is in there.
I really don't want to use a cone filter in the fender well. I'm going to have a PS pump in there anyway, so things are going to be crowded.
Short term might be a cold air box with a cone filter behind the headlights for the time being, as I either try and find a suitable stock-type air box that might work, or design and 3D print something that uses some sort of panel filter element.
I can buy or build an MAF sensor housing to replace the one that is integrated into the stock airbox lid, so that's not an issue.
Glad to hear you are on the mend!
It would appear you need to design a fuse-airbox.
Happy you're up and about, hopefully not in too much pain.
If it were me...by the strut tower would make the most sense. Would look just like a new car, and it gets all the wiring in one spot. Did you have any other plans for that area (sensors, etc.) or would it otherwise be unused space?
Yeah, the pain is manageable. No much more than before, just different. All of the tissue, etc around the site is angry.
The original location for the fuse box was going to be on the PS near the strut tower. My desire to not relocate the battery and use a stock-sized one caused the same interference issues. Since I had nothing going in this spot on the DS, I moved it there (and lengthened a bunch of the wiring as needed.
I think I like the spot closer to the strut tower, honestly.
Just trying to get it into its home, so I can start making all of the needed connections for power and other stuff. I'm using the relays, etc in the box for lighting/fans/fuel pump, etc.
This engine bay stuff I can do while I'm limited on mobility, so I'm going to try and take advantage of the bit of time off work and the time alone at home during the day to make a little progress.
I still have about another week in this brace they have on me, so that's annoying.