I guess any of you that have put a turbo coupe rearend in another car could answer this question for me as well....
I've been having problems with my brakes lately. Apparently the pressure switch is bad, so I basically have no brakes. I don't think you can get a new one at the parts store and thus far I haven't found one locally, and I just need to get these brakes fixed (plus, it looks like the pressure switch is a HUGE pain in the ass to get to and might even require removal of the MC).
So, I've been considering converting the car over to a stanard non-abs MC. I found that I can get an '86 SVO MC & booster for around $120 at advance auto parts. I read the article on this site about swapping in a turbo coupe rearend, so I know that I need an aftermarket proportioning valve and that I need to gut the factory one. I'm curious about a couple things though.
1- Why won't the factory proportioning valve work if you do this swap, even on a car that didn't originally have ABS?
2- Where can I take vacuum from for the MC? I do know that the line's supposed to have a one-way check valve in it or something, I'm guessing this is probably important since I have a turbo car.
3- Somebody on turboford said he did the conversion and had to change his brake pedal?
If I'm forgetting anything, or if anyone has any hints, let me know! I need to decide what I'm doing soon because barely having brakes is not fun. (I posted this in the wrong forum a few days ago...woops!)
#1 it will with no problems (drum rear cars gut the valve)
#2 off the vaccume tree on the firewall tee of the cruise if it dont have a nipple blocked off.or anywhere after the throttle plate
#3 i would'nt see that being a problem i have a parts car that was changed to a 5.0 set-up and has the factory pedal and it fits fine
So I DON'T need the aftermarket proportioning valve...SWEET. That saves me $40 right there. So that means I don't need to buy that pipe plug for the prop valve right? (just making sure I got everything straight in my head)
All the "nipples" on my tree are taken up at the moment so I will have to tee off the cruise vac line then.
Sweet, I got this whole thing pretty much figured out, now all I gotta do is actually buy the MC and booster. Thanks for the help! I've got some 73mm front calipers I'm gonna throw on the car while I'm in there too.
#1, actually, we have to run an adjustable proportioning valve, because the gutted proportioning valve would theoretically then send full pressure to the rear brakes, causing them to lock up way easy
#2, you could probably branch off of that big fat line that runs from the intake manifold, if you get a vacume booster from a non-abs car, they have the check valve sorta mounted on the side/front
#3, factory pedal will work, as far as i know
I thought he meant that the factory proportioning valve would work as-is, i.e. no modification needed. Which makes sense to me since the car already has four wheel disc.
I have the stock parts you need to do the fix for $50 plus $20 shipping. I used a longer pressure line so you have to use the one you have. It work fine until I took it off a couple of weeks ago to do a manual brake conversion.
tmdunlap@comcast.net
TED
yes exactly what i meant use an 87-93 5.0 mustang or 87-88 5.0 t-bird master and booster they bolt iin fit with no prob
the 87-88 t-bird's only use a splitter bock for the front brakes "prop valve" the rear brake line connects to the master as shown in pics
it is a fairly easy swap and straight forward. i have also set up a friends 84 5.0 with a 87-88 turbo coupe rear the same way stops fine with no premature lockup
here are some pictures
cad-t-bird- All I see in that pic is the MC and the accumulator. My problem is with the brake pressure switch next to the motor.
Plus, if I have to take the MC out just to replace that stupid switch I think I'd rather just convert the whole system.
Also I didn't know the rear disc brakes had a seperate line...how can I convert to a 2-port MC like the SVO unit? Would I have to attach the rear brake line to the gutted factory prop valve and tee the two front lines off the other port on the valve, kinda like how a Mustang's brake lines are set up?
The pressure switch is part of the motor and the picture is not the best. Having problems with my USB right now so I can't send you a better one.
You can take out the motor and switch without taking off the master. I did it in order to move it. If this fixes your problem it would solve a lot of problems.
In order to put on a different master you need to cut you front brake lines after the distribution valve and put in a "t". I found instructions on how to do this on the web but I can't find it right now. When I do I will post the link.
TED
I found out a little while ago while looking at my car that the brake lines are run exactly like the mustang, they just run across the k-member rather than along the firewall. I found that page online that tells you how set it up. So I think I'm gonna see if I can find a used booster from a 5.0 mustang and throw a bigger MC in there, and just go ahead and convert the car and put on the 73mm calipers I have.
have you started swapping it yet?
i have some pictures now of my conversion to a old style 2 line master
here ya go maybe these will help some
No I haven't started the swap yet. Gonna do it on the 21st probably, I only just found a booster and I don't have it yet. I already know how I'm doing the lines though. The worst part is gonna be getting the old MC out... :disappoin
yeah after you unplug the harness it isnt that bad just be prepared to use a 14 mm wrench because it is hard to get anything else in there and also helps a ton if you take out the seat!!! took me about 30 mins to take it out and 4 days to get the seat out :crazy: because the power motor had burn't up
good luck with your swap and if ya need any help dont be afraid to ask! :deal:
Oh I'm definitely taking the seat out, I can only imagine how many places I would hurt if I tried to get up under that dash otherwise (and it doesn't help that I'm 6'4" either)
Also...I think getting the old brake lines off so I can remove the master cylinder may be tougher than removing the MC itself. Not much room to work over in there.