I have a set of new factory 95 Cobra coils Im planning to use in my car but Im curious if I should install them as is or will they need to be cut a little prior to install?
Wanted to know who was using sn95 coils and if they cut them or not and how much. Pix help too...
Sn-95's have about an inch less travel and are about an inch shorter. Vinnie is running sn-95 coils all around and I like his stance.
sweet good to know!
I think Vinnie used coils from a convertible Mustang? ( not 100% on this) But he was using air shocks in the back to get the desired ride height. Agreed Vinnie got it right though...Looks awesome.... By the way "deathbypsi" great build I'm following. Cant wait to see it complete., Ray
I'm using SN95 Stang springs. The ride height was good already after the swap. I got about a 2 inch drop. perfect. I added the air shocks (as I always use) to maintain the rear height when I have my heavy toolbox and part weighing down the car.
Thanks for the input Vinnie. Exactly what I was hoping to hear.
Mine actually came from a V-6 car if I remember right. I read a chart of the V-8 and V-6 springs, they were virtually the same thing. I got mine from a local yard. They worked better than I had hoped.
Mine were pulled out of a 95 Cobra when it was brand new still for drop springs so they been sitting in a box for decades. I hope these will provide a sporty ride at a height that looks good
Pretty sure they will be too low in the rear, unless you address that.
Yup. My Thunderbird has 98 Mustang GT springs all around. The fronts are equivalent to 87-88 Turbo Coupe factory springs so they will be fine. The rears are short though. I have adjustable ride height rear control arms from Maximum Motorsports and I had to crank them about half way up to match the ride height from front to back. You'll tuck the rear wheels way up with the stock rear control arms.
I was considering making my own weight jackers for my stock lowers when I rebushing and box them so maybe I will make that a for sure thing to do now.
Same setup as Vinnie. 2k GT fronts, 2k1 V6 convertible rears. Invest in Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates, you WILL need them. Unless you think there's any reason you really need -2.5 degrees camber (ask me how I know).
I'm running 96 gt convertible rears and just the stock 87 turbo coupe spring up front with 5/8 coil cut
Has a nice drop but in the future I will probably drop it more
Also note that I also have a huge box and sub in my trunk
From what I've heard on the rear sn95 springs, the convertible springs have a higher spring rate
(http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg74/nukkah617/T-Bird/IMAG0142_zps83frbnpg.jpg) (http://s245.photobucket.com/user/nukkah617/media/T-Bird/IMAG0142_zps83frbnpg.jpg.html)
Here ya go:
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa33/thunderjet302/Thunderbird%20web/bird%20side%20ride%20height_zps9uc1gb4k.jpg) (http://s198.photobucket.com/user/thunderjet302/media/Thunderbird%20web/bird%20side%20ride%20height_zps9uc1gb4k.jpg.html)
98 Mustang GT springs rear (with polyurethane spring isolators) with Maximum Motorsports extreme duty adjustable rear arms (turned half way up). Moog 8598 springs (with polyurethane spring isolators) in the front. Stock style strut mounts in the front as well. With 26" tall tires there is slightly less than a 2" gap between the top of the tire and the wheel well lip all around. Aligned perfect with no caster/camber plates.
Those are fox Mustang 5.0 springs. Their drop is almost nothing. Explains why you didn't have a camber problem.
The nose actually dropped around 2" with the Moog 8598 springs over the stock Thunderbird LX front coils.
I'm still dropped almost 2 inches further than that.
With the roads around here I don't want to go lower. It sits at the same height as my wife's 2012 Mustang which is good enough for me.
I put 00' gt front coils in my bird that has 00' front control arms and kmember. I'm going to have to cut the spring to get the ride height down. Here's a pic after it settled down from the move to the new place. I stood on the bumper bar and it only dropped maaaybe 1/2 inch.

I'll try to get a shot of it outside.
Does Moog sell stock replacement SN95 springs? if so, can someone share some P/N's?
All I can seem to find are SN 95 lowering springs.
That's where I got mine. Couldn't tell you the number though, been a couple years.
Auto zone and orileys carry replacement 94-04 Springs for a gt.
Auto zone and orileys carry replacement 94-04 Springs for a gt. http://m.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/coil-spring-front/ford/mustang/1995/8-cylinders-t-5-0l-sfi-ho
Here's a different pic of the height with the gt springs.
Well I have the front end all off my car now and will be installing the new stuff shortly. Im having trouble deciding if I should put these 95 Cobra coils in untouched or if I should cut half a coil off. Reason is I have removed a lot of weight off the front of the car and dont want it to sit to high. I removed all of the A/C and power steering components, added an aluminum rad, pulled all the cruise stuff and pulled the power antenna. If I had to guess thats around 100lbs off the front half of the chassis.
Put them in uncut and see how it sits. If it's too high cut off a coil.
You can always remove a coil later but you can't add it back ;)
ok next question..
For everyone using the MM c/c plates. Im putting mine on now and in the directions it talks about measuring the old struts distance from fenders to figure out what spacer combo to use on the strut above and below the plates depending on how much drop you have from the coils.
Well I stripped all the parts off my car before I even opened the box from MM. So I never got this measurement and Im wondering if anybody here thats using these plates with these SN95 coils happens to remember or can check their cars to see what combo of spacers they used.
The kit came with 1 then spacer,1 med spacer and 4 thick spacers.
Kinda lost where to start here..
I've got 2 thick ones on the top and the rest underneath. Do yourself a favor and despite what the directions say, take the old mounts off as an assembly after pushing the strut down through. It's a lot easier. When you're finished, see a shop for alignment, and have them set camber with you sitting in the car. I had a hell of a time until I ballasted the driver's seat while I had it on the rack setting my camber. Best you can hope for for caster is 4 degrees positive, but that's what you'll want. Ours aren't cars that like any cross caster, so make sure you've got both sides the same. I set my camber at .8 degrees negative (really close to stock) and I'm really happy with it. But definitely get more caster, the factory spec is like +1.5, and that's shiznit. go for at least +4.
Thanks for the tips. Im 300lbs so sitting in the seat while its aligned is a must.
Just to put a stamp on this for future reference here is a pic of my car 98% finished at mostly full weight using 95 cobra coils with 1/4 cut off fronts. This is with stock rear lower arms.
(http://i681.photobucket.com/albums/vv173/deathbypsi/Turbocoupe/IMG_2653_zpshclkomcy.jpg) (http://s681.photobucket.com/user/deathbypsi/media/Turbocoupe/IMG_2653_zpshclkomcy.jpg.html)
Only reason I cut the 1/4 coil off the front is because of all the weight I took off the front of the car. UPR k-member,removed all the A/C,removed the power antenna, no power steering with a Flaming River rack