ok, so... as to the airostars what year and how much to shorten with t-5? anybody got pix, mine finaly went and im look'n for a under 200$ sollution.
I thought the ideal cars were later crown vics.... I would think that they would be slightly better.
during my trip to the junkyard today,my brother and i saw an aluminum driveshaft lying beside a lincoln towncar.that sucker was a monster!must have been 5 or 6 inches across.made the damper an the front yoke look small.we started looking under arostars, but didnt seem to be able to find an aluminum shaft.probably our luck that they were all too early to have them.
My 95 Aerostar has an aluminum drive shaft. Yes it is huge, but it is also hollow. As for how long I would the shop measure it twice and have them cut it once.
They're all hollow. A solid shaft wouldn't be as strong (unless it was about 4" in diameter, in which case, aluminum or not, it would weigh a ton)
just did some research, i can also get one off a early 90s ranger long bed. their sopposed to be 55" and we need 48-52" apairently. so im going to look this thursday at my junkyards...
IIRC the "proper" length of the Tbird d/s is 47" u-to-u.
With the Ranger one, you may need a different rear yoke and/or a conversion u-joint depending on the .
On my Ranger, when I installed the 2001 aluminum d/s, I needed a conversion u-joint to adapt to the smaller needed to mate to the 7.5 (which is the same as needed for a Tbird(used an old TBird actually).
On my Scorpio, I used the Aerostar d/s in it. It had the proper to mate to the 7.5/8.8 diff. in the TBirds/ Mustangs.
so what your saying chuck is that the ranger one will probley need a different rear yoke or an adapter, and the aero star one will needs special u joints, different size than ours,... im shooting for ease of instalation. i guess the aerostar would be my best bet then without haveing a adapter. im going to have to look into this more.