I've got all the parts and hardware but i dont have a flat enough piece of land to do it.
Everytime I've tried to get an exhaust shop to install a peice for me they turned me down. I got a quote for a walker cat back on my cougar for $680. So I went to autozone and ordered a walker cat back and ler and installed it for less then $100.
You'll have to call local ler shops and see what they charge. I'm sure the fees are different depending on your location, and what mechanic or shop you go to.
Thanks guys
I don't see why a shop should turn down your install, so long as you aren't asking them to delete catalytic converters. Expect to pay for at least an hour of labor, but considering shops make a good part of their revenue on parts, they may charge you more to keep their margins up. More than 2 hours labor, though and you should keep shopping.
Unless you live on the steep side of a mountain, it shouldn't be too hard to install the headers and H-Pipe, then have a ler shop do the rest, save you some cash and the heads and pipe are straight forward and easy. Headers can be done from the top (shorty heades), then lift the car, bolt on the H or X pipe, off to the shop you go. You only need about 20 feel of flat space to work on.
well i dont have 5 feet of flat space let alone 20 feet but im pretty sure i can get the front of the car up a little
Use the hilly spot to your advantage. Get two wheels uphill then jack up the low side of the car. Make sure you have the wheels blocked off well though and set the ebrake and do a good bounce test, and always use jack stands.
So any tips on removing the y pipe that runs off of the exhaust manifolds?
Spray the bolts (studs) with PB Bladster or whatever lube you have that will help, let it sit for a while, then unbolt it from the manifolds. Now, an aftermarket H or X pipe will not bolt up to the factory exhaust manifolds. You'll need to install headers as well. IF you also have headers, then unbolt the Y-Pipe from the manifolds and remove it from underneath the car. MAKE SURE that the car is lifted securely!!!
Get the best fitting 6 point deep socket you can find. I am very fond of wobbly extensions when doing this work. A cheap $10 set of harbor freight wobbly extensions will make all the difference in the world. I commonly use 18" or so worth of extensions when removing the y-pipe. Gives you tons more room to work and there is no need for a u-joint. With the extensions you can easily get a breaker bar on the end if needed.
I've found that even with rusted bolts, a good fitting 6 point socket will usually either break the stud off, or break through the rusty bits of the thread. Penetrating fluid always helps, but if the threads are too far gone it might just break.
Haystack is right. A good breaker bar is also good to have around. If ou're replacing the manifolds anyway, then broken studs don't matter.
Breaker bars are great. If the bolts won't move the breaker bar will sure as hell snap 'em clean off :hick:.
I've got an old 1/2" Craftsman breaker bar that is great for this type of work.
the nuts on the crossover pipe look about impossible to get to, do i have to remove the starter and such?
Oh and ive got some stock mustang shorty headers that i drilled the studs out of and i bought all 316 stainless bolts and nuts
I don't know what rust is like for you in MO, but up here in the rust bowl, I'd just hacksaw the y-pipe as close to the manifolds as you can get and not futz with the studs.
yeah i already decided to do that and our roads here are literally white with salt but the car has almost no rust on it its originally from cali