I got my KB running at about 8 psi now and I took it to the track tonight. Not enough traction and not enough water injection limited my performance, but I did hit a new high for me - and finally broke into the 12's!! WOOHOO!! My best time last year was 13.000 @ 107.9 (best MPH all year). After screwing around a bit tonight - I got one decent run in. My 60' sucked, car spun like a biotch at 1-2 shift and I shift like a dead old lady!
60' - 1.939
1/8 - 8.346 @ 86.81 MPH
1/4 - 12.802 @ 111.48 MPH
The MPH looks good for a 3700 lb. beast - if I could only get all that power to the ground. I have the CHE lowers which tightened things up nicely and subframes and Mickey Thompson 275-60-15 28" drag radials - but as you can see I'm still not getting all the power to the wheels yet.
Yea the mph looks good, get a decent 60ft with some traction and that would be good for a 12.30
I'm no expert but I agree with tom, looks like the key is in your 60's
yeah looks like you need stickier rubbers. Good run though.
I agree with everyone so far - last year with these M/T drag radials I was getting 1.7's & 1/8's consistantly in the 60' - now I have 35+ HP more and my best 60' tonight was 1,876 - and in that run my 330' was 0.1 sec faster than my best run above! If the ed idler pulley hadn't moved during that run (causing massive belt slip) I would likely have hit 12.7's. It's only a matter of time before I figure it out and pull off a 12.5 or better - I'm pretty sure I've got the power :D My car goes sideways during the 1-2 shift - this with the excellent M/T drag radials at 18 psi & the rear diff completely locked - slicks anyone? lol
Do you disconnect the front sway bar when you go to the track? I haven't tried this yet but I think it would help...
!thats kicks a** Cougar50that front sway bar tip should help the weight transfer quite a bit.you might even be surprized.do you have or have you thought about adjustable uppers?that would help too.go on a weekend when they have test and tune and you might be able to get that beast dialed in.i dont remember what they are called, but there are some lower control arms that lower the pivot point at the axle!those would most definitly help plant that rear to the pavement.i know,money dont grow on trees,but just giving my insight on traction control.
I have CHE uppers that I haven't installed yet - though I did better when I had the sloppy OEM pieces on :giggle: . Of course the OEM pieces were clicking and squeaking - I'm so glad that is gone! No way am I gonna use noisy lift bars on my classic cruiser :D I do think disconnecting the 1.3" sway bar up front will help shift the weight back though.
disconnecting the sway will help you tons im sure
i would like to see the difference in that alone on a car as quick as yours already is without it unhooked.
I love the M/T ET streets. Since i bought these, I've been cutting real consistant 1.7X 60' times. My best on drag radials was high 1.9X's. I backed my boost and shift points off (like 4-5 mph worth) while I worked though the 60' times, and the ET's are falling. I cant wait to get some good air, and turn it all back up :D
Bob Myers
I don't think the problem is in the tires...are you running stock style shocks/struts? If so, that is where you're problem lies. My car has gone 14.90's with blown shocks/struts with a 2.2 60' time(on 225/65r15 cooper cobra's), now I'm lucky to pull a 2.30 60' time with the new stock style shocks/struts.
I just picked up Competition Engineering's 3-way adjustable shocks. They have 3 ratios: 50/50, 40/60, or 30/70...I'm gonna try the 30/70 setting when I run next...waiting till Cecil Co. fall nats.